[malcb]

Hmm, might be getting some "spare" time myself, things are going quite quiet in a lot of the industries we work with. By the way ever one, the Olympics in 2012 will be sort of different to China, bit more like Rome in 200BC.

Originally Posted by joeyg1973

No clue what you are talking about when you mention the "poly V belt", "8 V's" and 35mm wide. Do you mean you made a 8 ribbed crank pulley for the 2f?

Thats what I did. I have an idea the M90 only runs 6 ribs. Nice thing is you can run a 6 rib belt on an 8 rib pulley which would help with finding an alternator, otherwise I need to use the Jaguar XKR alternator to match the supercharger, don't think my planned boost level is going to need an 8 rib.

Originally Posted by joeyg1973

I would run them all off the same serpentine belt... Don't bother with 2 alternators, a cs144 GM has 140 amps, if you need more than that, spend about 50 bucks more and get one that is 250+. I don't know what you intend to run that would suck down more than 140 amps other than on startup or extreme load.

I might well run them all on the same belt eventually, although the loading with a supercharger can be quite high and getting the alingment right is harder with the whole lot.

[joeyg1973]

I want pictures and measurements ASAP!

[joeyg1973]

I did a bunch of measurements on the crank pulley, crank flange, harmonic balancer, and the water pump so that I could possibly get someone to make me a serpentine pulley for the thing made. Anyway I have these specs in Excel and OO format which I cannot attach here so I am just cutting and pasting for now. I am not sure if my terms are right, but that is how I would describe each of them measurments. If someone has a place that they want to put these documents PM me. I am also putting in a bunch of pictures too.

So if anybody out there wants to use these specs to make something new and interesting feel free. This also gives you a good idea of what the crank pulley looks like broken down into it's 3 basic components.


Harmonic Balancer

Front

ID 52mm
OD 195mm



Back

ID 120mm



Rivet/Bolt Holes x 6

Distance of Centers 80mm
Diameter of Holes 8.5mm



Puller Holes x 2

Distance of Centers 88mm
Diameter of Holes 12mm



Alignment Pin x 1

Diameter of hole 8mm


Crank Flange


Center

Length Total 57mm
Length of larger ID 20mm
Length of smaller ID 37mm
Large ID 36mm
Small ID 31mm



Front Center

OD 52mm
Length of OD 2.30mm



Back Center

1st OD 52mm
2nd OD 48mm
3rd OD 45mm
Length of 1st OD 1.95mm
Length of 2nd OD 16.95mm
Length of 3rd OD 30mm



Middle Center

OD 117.40 mm
Length of OD 5.80mm



Rivet/Bolt Holes x 6

Distance of Centers 80mm
Diameter of Holes 8.5mm



Puller Holes x 2

Distance of Centers 88mm
Thread TBD



Alignment Pin x 1

Diameter of hole 8mm


Crank Pulley


ID 52mm
OD 155mm
Offset 3.65mm
Width 45mm
Center of width 22.5mm
Centerline (Center of width – Offset) 18.85



Rivet/Bolt Holes x 6

Distance of Centers 80mm
Diameter of Holes 8.5mm



Puller Holes x 2

Distance of Centers 88mm
Diameter of Holes 12mm



Alignment Pin x 1

Diameter of hole 8mm


Water Pump Pulley

ID 42.10mm
OD 123mm
Offset 6.65mm
Width 45mm
Center of width 22.5mm
Centerline (Center of width – Offset) 15.85mm



Bolt Holes x 4

Distance of Centers 62mm
Diameter of Holes 9mm

[joeyg1973]

Pulleys

[joeyg1973]

More Pulleys

[joeyg1973]

More pulley pics

[joeyg1973]

More Pulley Pics

[joeyg1973]

More Pulley Pics and I need to make a change in the text otherwise the forum won't let me paste soooo asdfasdf

[joeyg1973]

More Pulley Pics dslfjaldsf

[joeyg1973]

More Pulley Pics dsfa

[joeyg1973]

More Pulley Pics sdfasadfs

[malcb]

Originally Posted by joeyg1973

Pulleys

Interesting, I think I remember your description of the crank pulley sounding different to mine. Might be able to get some pictures end of next week when I get back into the workshop.

I take it you ground the rivets off? I did the same and when it goes back on it's going to be wired , if one of those come loose on mine the bolt will rip the cam gear cover up, the bolts go in from the engine side and through the flange into tapped holes on the serpentine pulley. I needed an 82mm diameter on the pulley so I didn't have much to play with, if the pulley had been larger (smaller supercharger spinning faster or more boost) then I might have had an easier time.

My crank pulley has a single V, no PS, AC or Air Pump to drive, ECE spec perhaps? The back flange and the single V are in one piece, I could have cut it off but the steel is very hard and having a V belt drive lets me leave the alternator and water pump as stock for the moment.

My serpentine drive would replace your double V drive, I machined the flange (chucked on the inside so the seal surface isn't marked) to get a good true surface and a location for the serpentine pulley. Next time (I see myself making more than one to vary boost) I might bolt the rough pulley block up and do the final machining on the whole unit.

All in all it was quite easy to make the drive, larger lathe and better tools would help, incorporating a 36-1 toothed wheel might be an idea. I would always retain the harmonic balancer as well.

[venpick]

Whoa. youve got skills bro! Skillz with a soldering iron, skillz with a wrench. Chicks dig skillz. Good luck with your project, it sound like its going to be another great rig.

[joeyg1973]

Originally Posted by venpick

Whoa. youve got skills bro! Skillz with a soldering iron, skillz with a wrench. Chicks dig skillz. Good luck with your project, it sound like its going to be another great rig.

I don't have skills... I just know how to read and research extensively before I do anything. What you don't see is how many times I fuck things up over and over again till I get it right. That is why I keeps saying that this project will be done when it is done.

[joeyg1973]

Originally Posted by malcb

Interesting, I think I remember your description of the crank pulley sounding different to mine. Might be able to get some pictures end of next week when I get back into the workshop.

I take it you ground the rivets off? I did the same and when it goes back on it's going to be wired , if one of those come loose on mine the bolt will rip the cam gear cover up, the bolts go in from the engine side and through the flange into tapped holes on the serpentine pulley. I needed an 82mm diameter on the pulley so I didn't have much to play with, if the pulley had been larger (smaller supercharger spinning faster or more boost) then I might have had an easier time.

My crank pulley has a single V, no PS, AC or Air Pump to drive, ECE spec perhaps? The back flange and the single V are in one piece, I could have cut it off but the steel is very hard and having a V belt drive lets me leave the alternator and water pump as stock for the moment.

My serpentine drive would replace your double V drive, I machined the flange (chucked on the inside so the seal surface isn't marked) to get a good true surface and a location for the serpentine pulley. Next time (I see myself making more than one to vary boost) I might bolt the rough pulley block up and do the final machining on the whole unit.

All in all it was quite easy to make the drive, larger lathe and better tools would help, incorporating a 36-1 toothed wheel might be an idea. I would always retain the harmonic balancer as well.

I forget what kind of supercharger you are using, M90?

I am probably going to weld the bolts to the back of the balancer. I was contemplating putting them in with some green lock tight instead. What do you think?

I didn't grind them out... I drilled the head of each then air hammered them off when they were sufficiently weakened.

As a suggestion, I would not have threaded the holes on the serpentine pulley. If you are going to make more than one serpentine pulley you are going to want them to be easily interchangeable. Lightly weld each bolt to the harmonic balancer or green lock tight as all that you need to do is prevent them from spinning when you tighten the nut. Put the nut on with a lock washer and if you are really paranoid about it drill the nuts and bolts for some wire. This will make swapping the serpentine pulley a lot easier. IMHO this is probably the better route.

How much would you charge me to make a serpentine pulley for my crank and water pump?

[malcb]

Originally Posted by joeyg1973

I forget what kind of supercharger you are using, M90?

M112 - big one probably too big almost 25% bigger than the M90, came of an Jag KXR, same engine size but at a guess more boost than I would want to run, problem is spin them too slow and the efficency is poor, lots of air sort of leaks past.

Have you done any calcs on the supercharger sizing, pulleys etc? If you don't have Corky Bells book it worth a look, I could scan a few relevant pages as a starter, be interested to see what you came up with as a check against my calcs.

You will see why I couldn't bring the bolts through and tack them onto the back when I post the photos, the diameter is only 82mm.


I wouldn't make and sell these because;

I haven't run mine yet

it's only made in aluminum

the lathe is too small to make this part easily or in steel, machining 4" block of al was hard enough and I guess your going to need larger?

When I get a drawing sorted your most welcome to a copy and if I can get some made I will let you know.


Can't wait to give the supercharger a spin, I did use the lathe and my new pulley to give it a spin (hand holding the supercharger ) spun it at perhaps 800 rpm, it was loud.

[joeyg1973]

Pics of my TBI after I refurbished it.

[joeyg1973]

Pics of my Timing gear cover pre lab metal and after lab metal sanding, more lab metal, more sanding, ad infinum, ad nasium. I will put up finished pictures... someday.

[joeyg1973]

Pictures Pictures Pictures... the visual guide to piston install.

Ok I am reassembling this a second time because the motor has been sitting all winter and frankly my garage was filthy when I assembled it and it got more filthy as I went and I never really took the precautions I should have to keep it clean and dust free. Anyway it gives me a chance to take pictures so that you can see how to put in the pistons. I didn't take pictures of the simple straight forward things like installing the crank of the camshaft.

On to the pictures and the descriptions.

First picture shows proper ring orientation. First or top compression ring has it's gap in the lower right of the of the picture. The second or bottom compression ring has it's gap in the upper left of the picture. They gaps are 180 degrees away from each other. Notice the relation of both to the indicator notch on the piston top that indexes to the front of the engine.

Second picture shows the first or top compression ring gap a little better as well as the top side indicator dot for the ring slightly to the left of the gap.

Third picture shows the second or bottom compression ring gap a little better as well as the top side indicator dot for the ring slightly to the right of the gap.

[joeyg1973]

First picture shows the oil ring setup and orientation on the piston. The top and bottom oil ring gaps are spaced about 1 inch from the split in the spring steel in the center. The best way to assemble the oil rings assembly is to line the split in the spring steel to about the center of the pin on either side, put the bottom ring on and align the gap to the first fold or crease (for lack of a better description) on the unfinished cast part of the piston to the right of the pin. Top one is done the same way, just to the left. I then spin the whole assemble to the right so that the bottom ring gap aligns with the pin. This makes the gaps in the oil rings about equal from the gaps in the compression rings. Not like this matters that much but in my world it is the little things that count.

The second picture shows the pin lock screw on the rod in relation to the front indexing notch on the top of the piston. The pin lock screw always goes to the left of the indexing notch.

[joeyg1973]

While these pictures are a bit blurry they show the top of my ARP rod bolts for a Supra after the heads have been machined (not ground) to match the original bolts. Rather than have me explain everything all over again about the ARP rod bolt stuff, just follow the link below.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...ain-bolts.html

[joeyg1973]

Picture of the gap that exists between the bolt and the hole. Again refer to the link in the last post for a full explanation. The short of it is that the gap doesn't matter as the bolt is only used to tension down then cap to the rod. The cap and the rod are what handle alignment on the crank.

[joeyg1973]

First picture shows the assembly lube properly applied to the top of the cylinder in a continuous circle before the install of the piston. I have learned that it is better to be generous with assembly lube than not.

Second picture show the 2 x 3" 3/16ths fuel line I use as a guide and scratch and ding protection when installing the pistons. It also shows the incredibly cheap and horrible ring compressor I bought.

Third picture shows the proper application assembly lube to the rod before you put the piston in. I don't have a picture of it, but put the same streak on the cap before you put it on. Don't smear it out with your fingers are they are filthy and have dirt on them that you don't want in there. The oil will squish into all the right places just by assembling the cap and the rod to the crank.

[joeyg1973]

Ok last picture here shows the position of the journal on the crank for the piston being installed. This happens to be piston #2 and it is as far down as it will go.

As far as installing the piston into the block, well I haven't got enough hands to do the work and take the pictures at the same time. It is pretty straight forward and I am sure if you google piston installation you would find plenty of guides with pictures. I use the handle of an all brass hammer to knock them home once I have the ring compressor setup right. Some people use special plastic hammers and such to do this job but I haven't got one of those. If you do find an all rubberized or plastic hammer make sure it isn't filled with sand or any other abbrasive to give it weight as the sand has a tendency to get out.

[joeyg1973]

When you put on the nuts for the ARP rod bolts make sure you follow the instructions that come with them. I don't know many people that have a stretch guage so use the torque method with their molly lube. Basically you need to tighten and loosen then 5 times to 45 foot pounds. It's a bit tedious but you will notice it gets easier each time you torque it.

[MiniPigg]

Im interested in how the serpentine belt is coming along. I would like to convert my 2FE over. I've been looking at different harmonic balancer pulley setups. I did find an after market HO harmonic balancer with the serpentine pulley for a 1FZ. Just curious if they interchange with a 2F.

[joeyg1973]

It's not going anywhere right now. I need my lathe to do that, and I need my house expansion done to use it. It's rediculous how long it takes to get town approval and permits where I live. Construction is going to start on Thursday.

[MiniPigg]

My 2FE conversion uses the harmonic balancer from the 3FE engine. I would hope the harmonic balancer from the 1FZ would interchange as well with no mods.

[joeyg1973]

If you get your hands on one check it against the specs I have up. I would love to be able to just pull something out of the parts bin. Right now I am either going to cut one from scratch out of 6" wide billet inch aluminum rod or cast a mold, pour some aluminum, and them cut out the ribs on a lathe. Haven't decided yet.

[bsmith123]

Hot Rod Fastening Hardware Charts - Rod And Custom Magazine

my first thought when seeing that you were machining material on the rod bolts was to wonder if they were case hardened?

I found this great article on the bolts since they are through hardened then it's not a prob. But, anyone looking to use different rod bolts should be sure if theirs are case hardened or not

From the ARP article

" One of the ways to strengthen fasteners is by hardening. Heat treating is the typical method with carbon steel. Bob explained that many of the fasteners available from the aftermarket are case hardened, which makes them strong on the outer layer, but remain flexible inside. The advantage is a flexible, less-brittle part; the disadvantage is less strength. ARP products are through hardened, which makes them capable of bearing higher loads"

removing material from a case hardened part=not a good idea