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Old 08-16-08, 10:08 AM   2 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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Need help with shackle reversal

I bought a low height shackle reversal kit from Proffitt's. I lost the instructions, but for some reason decided to start working on installing it today. They're not open--I've tried calling twice.

Anyway, to those that have installed one of these, where do you measure the 42 inches from? the front spring hanger after you weld it on? Do you drill about an inch and a half up the frame?

Also, anyone have trouble getting the front spring hanger in the right place with a saginaw power steering conversion? I think I can get it to fit by cutting the 3/8 inch Saginaw mounting plate a little.

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http://www.proffittscruisers.com/022...M_DSC02459.jpg


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Old 08-16-08, 12:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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IIRC the 42 is from bolt hole on hanger. alot of people move the hangers forward an inch and half.
When you box out the front frame horns you add the 1.5" thus allowing the hangers to be moved forward. To be sure of the frame hole location please measure your springs main leaf along its lineal length ( decarced). The hole should be approx. 2.25 to 3 " shorter, this allows for proper shackle angle. Remember to think about where your springs sit at ride hiegth ? mine still have arc so I accounted for that when setting hole location. If your springs sit flat at ride hiegth you will be at full shackle angle at ride hiegth and it is much easier to determine where hole goes. I bet it goes 1/4" behind the stock rivet hole and yes, 1.5" up frpm bottom is good, just up enough so the sleeve clears the duoble thick frame on bottom. Remember the frame is boxed there so the frame is double thick on bottom. The inside of frame should have a hole in the boxing that the sleeve will partially be in. Meaning you will not be able to weld all the way around the inside edge of sleeve cause some of it sits in the factory frame hole.

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Old 08-16-08, 12:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Not saying mine is right since it still is sitting there as it looks but just for thought here is a pic of mine

Also i think PEESALOT hit it on the head pretty darn well...
You will see i put mine flush with the front of the frame but only because i was going with a Scout PS box rather than the regular saginaw. I would be pretty nervous not extending the frame a little if i wasn't. (NOT PROVEN JUST OPINION)

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I just remembered are you planning to use a rod or something to help ensure you are square on your back tubings?? I will find my other pic to post to explain if you are not. (i am sure you are but i'm just trying to help)
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Old 08-16-08, 12:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Metal would be way better but i was in a hurry so I ran to lowes and rolled every dang wooden dowel rod on the floor untill i found the straightest one and away i went.
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Old 08-16-08, 05:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for your help. I emailed Proffitts and they responded back very quickly. We almost got it done. 95%.

My front hangers are closer to the front of the frame than your picture shows. Also my holes for the sleeves ended up having a partial large frame hole behind them. We had to cut out circles and weld them in before drilling the inside hole with the hole saw.

I couldn't do the dowel method, b/c I have an engine in my cruiser and couldn't see between the holes. I relied on my calibrated eyeball. Hope it works out ok.

The way the saginaw box was mounted, there was no lengthening of the frame horns. I ended up cutting a corner out of the 3/8" (or 1/2"?) saginaw mounting plate to allow the hanger to fit in there. It worked out just fine.

Hope my shackle angle works out ok. All I lack is mounting the saginaw box again, pulling out the front leaf spring bolts and greasing them (I forgot) and hooking up the rear shackles. I just got pooped out and had to quit.

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Old 08-18-08, 04:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here's some pics. It rides pretty well, but as you can see, the spring is almost touching the frame at rest. I need to get some longer shackles to keep from bottoming out. I did it mostly to increase my approach angle and lower the front end. It didn't really lower the front end much (longer shackles will hurt that too), but really did help with the approach angle.
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Old 08-18-08, 06:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the pics!! The top picture is a case in which boomerang shackles may actually work for what they would be intended for!! Maybe not enough though you may look into them.....
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Old 08-19-08, 05:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Senor, what was the distance from the centre of the front eye to the centre of your hole in the chassis?

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Old 08-19-08, 05:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
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42 inches exactly. I clamped my tape measure on the front hanger with a pair of visegrips and used a center punch to mark it. I may have gotten the rear holes too high in the frame. They are 1.5 inches up. My springs are flat and that may contribute to the small gap and shackle angle.

A question for you guys... Anything wrong with making my own longer shackles out of some 1/4 inch flat stock (or 3/8) and some bolts? Should I weld the bolts to one side like the factory shackles? I was thinking I'd add an inch to the stock 2 3/4 inch shackle. My rear shackles are made like this, but they seem less important than the fronts.

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Old 08-19-08, 11:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Are your springs stock length too - almost flat? I am trying to do the math but something is not adding up

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Old 08-20-08, 12:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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HMM Is that picture tilted a little? The reason i ask is i think judging by the frame i think it is tilted and your shackle angle wouldnt be that bad (ofcourse it may be worse if it wasnt bottomed out) I think you are right when you said being an inch and a half up on the frame didnt help since it is a close tolerance anyway with stock shackles. In theory longer shackles would work but since your flat and long it may not work as quick and easy as it would if you were running lets say short leafs. Hmm i question if an inch will be enough as you hit bumps etc.

Here is a thought and I admit it may be stupid!!! I think your shackle reversal should have lowered your ride height by at least an inch or so so you could add an add a leaf to lift it back up to normal which would put an arch in your springs (unfortunately making it stiffer) and lesson your shackle angle and then the 1 inch longer shackle would probably be enough plus only giving a 1/2 of lift to add to the add a leaf.

" The top picture is a case in which boomerang shackles may actually work for what they would be intended for!! Maybe not enough though you may look into them....."

When i posted that comment i had my head in my butt sorry. For some reason i thought that was the back of your FJ and it was actually your front solid mount!!! Boomerang shackles would be worthless!!!
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Old 08-20-08, 01:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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see sig line where i have done the same proffits kit it did lower mine, and i love it

in case you cant see it

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...-write-up.html

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camcrusier13 build threads the following are links, just click, go on try it
Traction Bar
Sliders
Ram Assist
Bumper Poison Spider Style
Shackle Reversal
Half Doors
DIY Beadlocks

if your doing it im sure ive done it, need help just ask.......
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Old 08-20-08, 01:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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you can make your own shackles no biggie, no need to weld the bolts, just run um through and call it good.

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camcrusier13 build threads the following are links, just click, go on try it
Traction Bar
Sliders
Ram Assist
Bumper Poison Spider Style
Shackle Reversal
Half Doors
DIY Beadlocks

if your doing it im sure ive done it, need help just ask.......
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Old 08-20-08, 04:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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That's what I'm doing. I bought some 3/8" x 2" steel today. Anyone know the diameter of bolt to use off hand? 1/2"? I'd like to cut out and drill the shackles tonight without pulling a shackle to measure the diameter.

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Old 08-20-08, 04:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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camcrusier13, I just read your shackle reversal thread again. I see your shackles are very close to your frame. Do they ever touch? How close are they at ride height? Are you happy with them? I may need to figure out the geometry on how much to extend the shackles to make the the gap similar to yours. An inch may be too much..

I'm also thinking of removing a leaf (or 2) to drop the front a little and make it a little softer (I can't fit in the garage with my hardtop unless I air down). Start with the short overload spring, I guess?

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Old 08-20-08, 08:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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im sure they do when i flex out, but just driving around they dont. i have never heard them or felt them hit, i would like to build longer ones but since im lazy i havent gotten around to it. i think i will make ones that are one inch longer then they are now (which is stock)

yes i am very happy with them and would do it again. again they are stock lentgh right now, what springs do you have on there now? mine are stock springs as well

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camcrusier13 build threads the following are links, just click, go on try it
Traction Bar
Sliders
Ram Assist
Bumper Poison Spider Style
Shackle Reversal
Half Doors
DIY Beadlocks

if your doing it im sure ive done it, need help just ask.......
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Old 08-20-08, 11:56 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
see sig line where i have done the same proffits kit it did lower mine, and i love it
That's right!!! I knew i saw a thread that had good pictures that would be benificial but i couldnt for the life of me remember who or where i saw it!!! Camcruiser it was yours
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Old 08-21-08, 02:44 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Camcruiser did you do your SR after going SOA? did your chassis height drop? It seems that if you dont use the rockfinders kits you will loose some of your chassis to ground height - if that makes sense.

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Old 08-21-08, 05:19 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Not sure about my springs... I think they are stock. I have 7 leaves up front. Would it be a disaster if I took out the 2 shortest?

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