[Gusb]

I’ve seen rows of what look like rivets or spot welds on the hardtops of FJ40s high above the rear wheels and they seem like a factory thing. Lower, on the tub, my 78 has “dimples” above the rear wheels on both sides in the area that looks like the tub to rear wheel cover join. I’ve seen another one (see green photos) that has dimples on one side and the other side is clean and straight. Mine has dimples on both sides. Is this corrosion happening at the inside join and a sign of cancer inside or is it something else? Almost seems like the sheet metal has been moved around causing the mounts to show? Thanks

[Fast Eddy]

Factory spot welds. The side without them has been repaired and repainted.

[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by Fast Eddy

Factory spot welds. The side without them has been repaired and repainted.

But I haven't seen factory spotwelds as "deep" or as "ugly" as those in the first 2 photos before. (Especially the first one.)

Perhaps they aren't "factory spotwelds" or perhaps rust is indeed causing the exterior panels to bulge away from the spotwelds.

[spotcruiser]

Factory spot welds. Yes, they bulge as they rust.

[73fj]

My 78 looked like that.

[Nomis]

Originally Posted by spotcruiser

Factory spot welds. Yes, they bulge as they rust.

Agreed. What does the metal on the inside seam look like?

[Gusb]

Originally Posted by Nomis

What does the metal on the inside seam look like?

On the East coast - I'll look at the inside and get some pictures up tomorrow when I get home. Thanks

[Texx]

Normally a sign of running 10.5 tires without a lift...they'll bulge the fender wells like that when at full compression the tire rubs.

[Gusb]

Originally Posted by Texx

Normally a sign of running 10.5 tires without a lift...they'll bulge the fender wells like that when at full compression the tire rubs.

I thought about that too - shouldn't I see some tire marks/rubbing on the inside fender area? I'll take a closer look when I get home.

[Sputnik40]

Both tire to fenderwell contact/distortion and rust bulges - bending the tubs accellerates the rust as it allows more junk to get in the seams.

[CruisinMT]

the sides of my 67 look similar but not as bad.

[Texx]

Originally Posted by Gusb

I thought about that too - shouldn't I see some tire marks/rubbing on the inside fender area? I'll take a closer look when I get home.

It's mild, not gouging. You'll probably see the lip at the top of the fenderwell opening turned under. Continues over time as previously mentioned. I actually had a customer ask me one time if I had one of the tubs with the flared quarters!

[vtcruiser60]

he said bumps on his rear.... (giggle)

[73fj]

Originally Posted by vtcruiser60

he said bumps on his rear.... (giggle)

[Liam]

Originally Posted by Texx

Normally a sign of running 10.5 tires without a lift...they'll bulge the fender wells like that when at full compression the tire rubs.

bingo....

[motoloco]

Its rust not tires.

[Gusb]

Originally Posted by Sputnik40

Both tire to fenderwell contact/distortion and rust bulges - bending the tubs accellerates the rust as it allows more junk to get in the seams.

This seems to be right on the money. Hard to see, but check out this photo - fender looks like it has a pushed out radius.

Looked inside and there is rust the length of the seam - not yet breaking through.

Anyone know if there's a "standard" process/procedure to repair these areas?

Thanks

[Fast Eddy]

Originally Posted by Gusb

Anyone know if there's a "standard" process/procedure to repair these areas?

I'm no body man, but you're talking about separating those two panels and grinding out the rust. I'm sure you'd want to do it with the tub on a rotisserie. It would be a really nice tub once it was done.

[Sputnik40]

Originally Posted by Gusb

Anyone know if there's a "standard" process/procedure to repair these areas?

Thanks

Several folks make patch panels that allow for the work to be done on the frame. The panels I've seen installed require you to cut below the top of the tub lip a few inches - running from behind the door seam to rear door opening. From what I've been told and the final product completed - it's not too difficult.

I won't comment on which vendors sell and if their products are worthy - will let someone else chime in to that effect.

Alternatively - My parents bought me a 79 FJ 40 as a wedding present (back in the 90's - cool huh!) and my Pop had a body shop friend replace the rear fenders in the same way above but they made the replacement skins and bent the sheet right on the truck. Turned out pretty decent - and still kick myself to this day for selling that one (daily driver with AC all original).

Best of luck.

[Diesel42]

Sad but true, i agreee with the guys, it's rust bulging from the spot welds. Th egood news, it can be repaired.

[mikealeus]

Anything can be repaired providing you have the means or the know how!

[Gusb]

Well, in the process of cutting out my rear sill and beginning to try and teach myself to weld, I'm also beginning to try a "patch" process to repair these wheel cover seams.

Cutting out the corrosion, removing what rust I can on the wheel cover seam and treating with Metal Ready (POR 15 stuff). Then a bit of weld primer (in the areas I don't need to weld). I plan to later hit the new seams with POR 15 and then seam sealer (top/bottom) before painting.

Using 4 patches (18 ga) per quarter seam. More work but I didn't like the idea of cutting out a large part of the quarter and having everything move around.

Everything at the tacked together stage - I may try to stitch weld from the inside. Time will tell. Worst case I'll scrap the quarters if things don't come together. Of course the grinding will take forever ...

[Gusb]

Corrosion on the rear curve seemed the worst ...

[Dieseler]

It looks more like a bad fender replacement job, all my Cruisers with origianl qaurters never looked that extreme even the ones that rusted through.
Usually the effects of to much heat resulting in metal distortion.
Gusb's welds are a perfect example of what welds should look like with very little heat halo on the welds well spaced to allow proper cooling and he probably tapped his welds with a hammer to reduce the distortion.
Nice job Gusb

[SouthBostonFJ]

That is art! Nice work.

[Coolerman]

That is excellent welding repair work my man!

Yes, grinding does take forever. About as long as final prep sanding for paint...

[miker]

Very nice work!

Get yourself a heat sink like one from a junked CPU and hold this behind the panel when you are welding and you will minimize or eliminate warping and it will also prevent burning through the panel. Copper is the best.

And take your time on the grinding so you don't put too much heat into the metal. You can warp the panel with a grinder by going too fast.

[Gusb]

Thanks for all the positive feedback.

Originally Posted by miker

Very nice work!

Get yourself a heat sink like one from a junked CPU and hold this behind the panel when you are welding and you will minimize or eliminate warping and it will also prevent burning through the panel. Copper is the best.

And take your time on the grinding so you don't put too much heat into the metal. You can warp the panel with a grinder by going too fast.

miker - finally a use for all my old computers in storage - I'll crack one open and see what I can find. I'm thinking of grinding down the tacks a bit, cleaning and welding from both sides (staggered). I've also got a small thick copper plate I can clamp for backing.

BTW - I still subscribe to your truck thread and appreciate the great work you do there.

[Gusb]

Passenger side tacked up...

[miker]

looking good.