Dimmer Switch Tech

Coolerman · 07-13-08, 07:22 AM

Yesterday I was working on reassembling the 2F starter I had taken apart and while looking for some missing pieces I ran across my defective OEM dimmer switch. Pic #1

I finished the starter, installed it temporarily( FJ60 starter planned) and grabbed the dimmer switch for a closer inspection.

I gave it a quick blast with the sand blaster then tried to figure out how to get into it. It is of course pot metal. The switch guts are held in placed by a lip that was pressed inward to hold them. The Dremel with a cut off wheel made short work of the lip. Pic #2.

The guts just lift out. There are two main pieces, the top piece with the wire attaching posts, and the rotating switch plate. Pic #3

IDave · 07-13-08, 07:24 AM

Sweet!

Coolerman · 07-13-08, 07:28 AM

Pic #4 Next I used the Dremel to cut the head off the rivet holding the switch mechanism. Only take enough off to use a pin punch to pop it out, you have to have enough of the stud left to re-expand it when reassembling!

Pic#5-6. Here are the remaining parts that come out leaving just the shell. Clean everything in hot soapy water, then use a Dremel tool with a wires wheel to clean the switch contacts and any stubborn grease or corrosion.

Coolerman · 07-13-08, 07:35 AM

Come on Dave, give me a break! (Old Van Halen lyric...)

Coolerman · 07-13-08, 07:42 AM

My switch would 'hang' between high and low, due to wear on the switch plate, and the little tab shown in Pic# 7 had lost it's original shape. I used the Dremel with a sand paper disk to dress the gouges on the switch plate (Pic #8) and bent the tab back into shape. I then put some dielectric grease everywhere I saw wear and put the switch plate back in.

Pic #9 shows a critical view. See the circled area? The switch plate is actually two plates with a space between them, that little arm MUST go between the plates AND to the left side. Any other way and it won't ratchet correctly!

Coolerman · 07-13-08, 07:50 AM

Once I was happy with the operation I flipped it over, put some support under the rivet then used a pin punch to expand the end enough to hold it in place. I also later filled the hole with epoxy. Sorry no pic of that operation...

Pic #10 shows the proper placement of the spring that goes between the switch plat and the switch contacts.

Pic #11 shows the switch contacts in their proper orientation. If you get this wrong the switch will not work at all!

Pic #12 shows the final piece with a good coating of dielectric grease. This piece has an alignment tab so it will only go in one way.

Coolerman · 07-13-08, 07:53 AM

Pic #13 Get a small C-Clamp and clamp the top piece in position. Mix up your favorite brand of epoxy and place the epoxy all around the edge. Let dry 24 hours and you have a switch that will last another 35 years!

Forgot to mention that I powder coated the body chrome and the button chrome with translucent gold overlay..

Enjoy!

07-13-08, 07:50 AM	#6
Coolerman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Lexington, KY TLCA# 13645 Posts: 2,690	Once I was happy with the operation I flipped it over, put some support under the rivet then used a pin punch to expand the end enough to hold it in place. I also later filled the hole with epoxy. Sorry no pic of that operation... Pic #10 shows the proper placement of the spring that goes between the switch plat and the switch contacts. Pic #11 shows the switch contacts in their proper orientation. If you get this wrong the switch will not work at all! Pic #12 shows the final piece with a good coating of dielectric grease. This piece has an alignment tab so it will only go in one way. Attached Images __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet)

07-13-08, 07:53 AM	#7
Coolerman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Lexington, KY TLCA# 13645 Posts: 2,690	Pic #13 Get a small C-Clamp and clamp the top piece in position. Mix up your favorite brand of epoxy and place the epoxy all around the edge. Let dry 24 hours and you have a switch that will last another 35 years! Forgot to mention that I powder coated the body chrome and the button chrome with translucent gold overlay.. Enjoy! Attached Images __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet)

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07-13-08, 07:22 AM	#1
Coolerman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Lexington, KY TLCA# 13645 Posts: 2,690	Dimmer Switch Tech Yesterday I was working on reassembling the 2F starter I had taken apart and while looking for some missing pieces I ran across my defective OEM dimmer switch. Pic #1 I finished the starter, installed it temporarily( FJ60 starter planned) and grabbed the dimmer switch for a closer inspection. I gave it a quick blast with the sand blaster then tried to figure out how to get into it. It is of course pot metal. The switch guts are held in placed by a lip that was pressed inward to hold them. The Dremel with a cut off wheel made short work of the lip. Pic #2. The guts just lift out. There are two main pieces, the top piece with the wire attaching posts, and the rotating switch plate. Pic #3 Attached Images __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet)

07-13-08, 07:24 AM	#2
IDave IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: McCall, ID TLCA# 13705 Posts: 6,223	Sweet! __________________ 9/70 FJ40 +Rollbar 9/64 FJ45 (L) P-B with restored wiring 4/84 Toy 4x4 Mini PU "The hungry sheep look up, and are not fed: but, swol'n with wind, and the rank mist they draw, rot inwardly and foul contagion spread."--Milton

07-13-08, 07:28 AM	#3
Coolerman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Lexington, KY TLCA# 13645 Posts: 2,690	Pic #4 Next I used the Dremel to cut the head off the rivet holding the switch mechanism. Only take enough off to use a pin punch to pop it out, you have to have enough of the stud left to re-expand it when reassembling! Pic#5-6. Here are the remaining parts that come out leaving just the shell. Clean everything in hot soapy water, then use a Dremel tool with a wires wheel to clean the switch contacts and any stubborn grease or corrosion. Attached Images __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet)

07-13-08, 07:35 AM	#4
Coolerman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Lexington, KY TLCA# 13645 Posts: 2,690	Come on Dave, give me a break! (Old Van Halen lyric...) __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet)

07-13-08, 07:42 AM	#5
Coolerman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Lexington, KY TLCA# 13645 Posts: 2,690	My switch would 'hang' between high and low, due to wear on the switch plate, and the little tab shown in Pic# 7 had lost it's original shape. I used the Dremel with a sand paper disk to dress the gouges on the switch plate (Pic #8) and bent the tab back into shape. I then put some dielectric grease everywhere I saw wear and put the switch plate back in. Pic #9 shows a critical view. See the circled area? The switch plate is actually two plates with a space between them, that little arm MUST go between the plates AND to the left side. Any other way and it won't ratchet correctly! Attached Images __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet)