Steering setup

[Rocknroll]

I recently had to replace a bent relay rod and now my steering is all out of whack. I've read the threads on toe-in, but I need to get the center arm and pitman arm on the steering box all centered correctly. As it is now the wheels wont turn to lock when turning to the left. Should the center arm be square to the frame when and the pitman arm straight up and down when the wheels are centered up? I can't go to power yet and before the bending this thing drove pretty nice. Please help!

[Pighead]

So you replaced the original relay rod with a new OEM relay rod?
They might be different lengths (new rods are slightly longer than original).That might screw something up...

[Rocknroll]

It's a salvage one I had off of a 78. Mine is a 74. The rod was bent when I bought it and rubbed the tie rod when turning causing a bind between the two. The toe-in was way off so I adjusted that at the time. It actually had about an inch of toe-out measured on my 32s.

[Rocknroll]

And since my old one was bent it was impossible to get an accurate measurement of it.

[Rocknroll]

anyone?

[venpick]

you could take the drag link off of the pitman arm then check to see if it is centered by counting the total rotations from stop to stop, 1/2 of that number sould have the pitman straight back. HOlD on im talking saginaw. ummm do the same thing only with the center arm. It should be in the middle of its path. (clear as mud?) then that is your center and adjust the tie rods after that to get your toe in. you can use a tape measure but make sure your measuring the distance exactly the same height up the tire in both the front and the rear of the tire. (use 2 identical lengths of wood or something to get to the same spot on the tire and exactly the same width (use chalk or something and spin the tire and draw a line all the way around the treads to get your spot.) after its dialed in i think 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch wider in the back drive it a short distance and then recheck and readjust if neseccary (usually it is neseccary) then your good enough to drive it to the shop to have them get it perfected. if your steering wheel is not centered you can always pull it off the column and reattatch it straight. hope that makes sense.

[65swb45]

1. Do NOT use anyone else's measurements. You must make the parts fit YOUR truck. Nothing else matters.

2. Drive the truck in a straight line to the place you intend to work on it.

3. Remove the drag link from the center arm [or the steering box]

4. Center the steering box by turning it lock to lock and then turning it back halfway between the two.

5. Set the center arm so that the output side of the arm [the one that parallels the frame] is basically parallel to the frame. This is where the adjustment of the relay rod comes in.

6. Adjust the length of the drag link until it will reattach to the center arm/steering box with the other components in their newly adjusted positions.

7. Lift the front end off the ground and check for any binding, as well as relatively equal steering in both directions.

8. Lower the truck down and repeat the test from #7. If there is any freeplay, have someone else turn the wheel while you inspect the components yourself for the source of the freeplay. Repair or replace as needed until steering is safe.


Best

Mark A.

[4x4 Station Wagon]

The posts above are all correct however it should be a piece of cake as far as driving good after your bent rod vs. before. The only thing in my mind that could have changed is the toe in toe out??? I have always shot for 1/4" toe in using a tape measure and have called it good. That simple no physics or large equations done deal. Hope this makes things simple......... That is my only intent As far as the rest with steering turns etc. Yes that is correct but that would be a seperate problem and your question should be 1/4" toe in............... Just my two cents