83 FJ40 electrical gremlins

[NE78FJ40]

I've been working on this for a couple of days. It has many electrical problems, but I'm working on getting it to start right now. It is completely stock with A/C and power steering. When I try and start it, it turns over a couple of times and then gets slower and slower until won't turn at all. It also kicks the battery to around 3 volts when starting to crank. If I hook it up to another vehicle and jump start it, it turns over just fine and fires right up. Battery reads 12 volts when power is turned off. I cleaned all the grounds and connections for the starter circuit. I was told the battery is fairly new, but I'm wondering if there may be a bad cell in the battery. Anyone have any ideas?

Also does anyone have a picture of the fusible link installed in an 83FJ40? It looks the the PO rigged something up to work, but I'm not even sure if its hooked up right.

This is probably the first of many electrical questions I'll have.

Thanks,
Mark

[Pin_Head]

Bad battery would be the first place to look unless you do more testing to rule other things out.

Other possibilities would include bad cable connections.

[nodaksn3]

Agree with Pin. While you're at it, get that fusible link fixed with one from Toyota- I think you might need the entire battery cable. That could be dangerous if it isn't right. Cheap insurance.

[NE78FJ40]

I thought I heard at one time that the fusible links were not available from Toyota.

[NE78FJ40]

I put the battery on a slow charge for about 5 hours. Went back out and it started right up. I'm going to let it sit overnight and see if it will start in the morning. I'm still in the process of chasing other electrical problems as well.

1. Park brake light will not go out. Already fixed the switch on the park brake.
2. Amp meter and fuel gauge do not work.

[Landpimp]

for my 82 I had to make them, maybe for some reason Toyota has them again

Originally Posted by NE78FJ40

I thought I heard at one time that the fusible links were not available from Toyota.

[Living in the Past]

On the parking brake light you might also check your brake fluid. Don't know about the 83 but some years during the seventies that light was also used as a warning light to let you know the brake fluid level was low. If that's the case then there is some kind of switch in your brake master cylinder.



John

[NE78FJ40]

I did look at the brake fluid level today and it was low. There is also a switch that hooks to the brake master cylinder cap. I didn't even think about them being linked together.

[NE78FJ40]

By chance, do you have a picture of it installed and what you used to make your fusible link?

Originally Posted by Landpimp

for my 82 I had to make them, maybe for some reason Toyota has them again

[Pin_Head]

Originally Posted by NE78FJ40

I
2. Amp meter and fuel gauge do not work.

Check the fuses in a fuse holder taped to the harness near the fusible link and battery to get the amp meter working. Blown fuses is a sign of a bad connection in the fusible link.



Check fuse for gauges and then check voltage at the fuel sender under passenger seat. Momentarily ground the fuel sender wire (the one with the spade plug) and see if the meter swings. If not, it is a meter problem. If the meter works, remove the sender and check its operation.

[NE78FJ40]

I finally got alot of the electrical problems fixed.
On the amp meter, I found a poor connection between the spade terminals and the circuit board on the back of the instument cluster.
The park brake light was the brake fluid level was low.
For the seat belt light and buzzer I found 2 wires broken in the seat belt latch.
I cleaned all the battery and ground connections and its been starting good ever since.
I believe I have a bad fuel sending unit, because the fuel gage went to full when I placed a jumper wire between the 2 spade connectors on the wire harness going to the sending unit. Do this sound correct?

Now I just need to figure out how to wire in a new fusible link. If anyone has any pictures of one installed that would sure help me out alot.

Thanks,
Mark

[Landpimp]

its all bundled back up in the harness, but I took the links out, got some matching bulk link wire at NAPA and took the harness apart and replaced, wasnt hard but it was 5 or so years ago.....memory fades

Originally Posted by NE78FJ40

By chance, do you have a picture of it installed and what you used to make your fusible link?

[NE78FJ40]

The wires were just stuck together so I could take a picture of what the PO did. Would the whitish wire between the 2 blue connectors be your fusible link? I also don't know what the small red wire (the one thats melted) is for? Did he put that in as his fusible link?

I'm stumped on how to install this link. My 78 has the link in series with the ammeter, but from the wiring diagrams for the 83, it looks like its parallel with the ammeter.

HELP

[Henry James the 47th]

The p.o. did some fine wiring repairs there I can see.

That black plastic case with the two wires going in and the two wires going out is for the fusible links. Open up the loom a bit and follow the two wires back towards the battery, which is where they should ultimately connect. Remember, the fusible link refers to the type of wire itself, which is designed to gradually fry (more slowly than for a simple fuse) when overloaded. You don't need Toyota factory fusible link wire - so long as your FS Manual indicates the cross-sectional sq.mm. size of the wire (usu. 0.25~1.25mm), which it does in the wiring diagram section at the back of the manual, then you can easily go and find that gauge of "fusible link wire" at any decent automotive store. The link wire gauge needs to be correct for proper operation and protection of your electrical components.

[grant5127]

Originally Posted by Henry James the 47th

That black plastic case with the two wires going in and the two wires going out is for the fusible links.

amp gauge fuses......

[Pin_Head]

The burned red wire is not correct. Get rid of it because it is too small.

One end of the fusible link connects to the wire from the battery + post.
The other end connects to the large white wire with light blue stripe. This is probably the one that the burned red wire is connected to in your picture.

The fusible link is in parallel with the amp meter, because it also serves as an external shunt. There are two fused amp meter wires. The fuses are in the black plastic box mentioned above. The white/blue amp meter wire connects to the battery end of the fusible link. The black wire connects to the other end. Make proper crimp connections with at least a $50 tool or just solder the connections.

[NE78FJ40]

Today I had the cruiser running and I was testing the alternator output. With no load, it was putting out 14.1 volts to the battery. With as many items turned on as I could, it was putting out 12.1 volts.

Should the alternator put out a consistant 14.2 volts no matter what the load is?

[Pin_Head]

An anternator will maintain the regulated voltage up to the limit of its maximum power output and then the vltage will drop off. The stock alternator is something like 50A, so it wouldn't be hard to max it out. Does the amp meter indicate the battery is discharging under this load?

[Coolerman]

Originally Posted by NE78FJ40

Today I had the cruiser running and I was testing the alternator output. With no load, it was putting out 14.1 volts to the battery. With as many items turned on as I could, it was putting out 12.1 volts.

Should the alternator put out a consistant 14.2 volts no matter what the load is?

Yes, within reason but in the real world it rarely happens go here to see why:

Mad Electrical

All you ever wanted to know about alternators, voltage drop blah, blah, blah. This site is a MUST read for anyone working on their charging system.

[NE78FJ40]

The amp meter shows that the battery is charging. The needle is just above the center line.

Originally Posted by Pin_Head

An anternator will maintain the regulated voltage up to the limit of its maximum power output and then the vltage will drop off. The stock alternator is something like 50A, so it wouldn't be hard to max it out. Does the amp meter indicate the battery is discharging under this load?

[Pin_Head]

There is no problem then. The alternator is keeping up with the load.