![]() |
Support our Advertising Vendors! |
|
|
#1 |
|
IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SAN DIEGO
Posts: 301
|
Whats missing here? - Manual steering box
Since I've been bored waiting for my head to get back, I had a buddy twist the steering wheel while I looked for slack. Everything seemed ok, however where the pitman arm attached to the sector shaft (?) on the fender side of the box had a good 1.5" of play!
I only found an exploded diagram of the box on the Specter website, and I still cannot figure out what piece is missing, or whats wrong? Can someone point me in the right direction what exactly is going on here? Thanks. Pictures of the gap I'm talking about. I can manually slide the pitman arm out like from the pictures show. I should also note that the box and column are both moving as one, sliding back and forth. The steering wheel also moves side to side obviously. ![]() ![]() __________________ 1966 GREEN FJ-40 SOA, Stock F Motor. - Runs, stops and leaks. ![]() 1996 Toyota 4Runner - 35's, locked, armored 2003 Toyota Tundra - Stock 1996 Toyota Camry - Stock |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
IH8MUD Regular
|
If the whole box is moving it looks like the bolts that hold the box to the frame are broken or missing, or the mounting braket is broken. Take some pictures that show the whole box as it is being moved. It might be time to put a Saginaw or similar type steering system in.
__________________ Wayne 1983 BJ42, SOA, Shackle Reversal, 4.11 diffs, locker in rear, Saginaw power steering, 33x12.5s. 4-wheel discs 1979 BJ40, 3"lift, 1982 BJ42 drivetrain, Saginaw ps, 32x10.5s, Warn 8274 winch 2001 Echo, stock |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
elder statesman
|
THAT IS NOT YOUR SECTOR SHAFT!!!!
That is the actual housing of the steering box. YOU MUST NOT DRIVE THIS CRUISER>>> ANY MORE>>>> until you fix this problem! That is a CRAZY bad problem. Disassemble the two halves of the clamp, rotate the steering box out of the clamshell, clean all surfaces completely and reassemble. If the steering box still moves, I recommend removing a small amount of metal from the top half of the clamp shell to increase the pressure on the steering box. PLEASE proceed carefully. Best Mark A. __________________ A carbureted man in a fuel injected world. 65SWB45, 64LWB45, 68FJ40,72V840, 76HJ45[going],84FJ60[gone], 76K5, 73Sub454, 89Sub7.4[gone], 97Sub5.7 TLCA delegate, Trail Crew-LAC TLCA, The White Trash of the Elwood Chapter my website: http://www.marksoffroad.net |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Wow! Did not realize the older steering box was assembled that way! If you can't get the clamp to work, I would, at the least, 'upgrade' to a later style steering box without that feature... Is that possible Mark A? Don't know a lot about the pre 69 Cruisers... ![]() For reference here is a 69 (shiny box) and a 71 (my box). Yes the shaft is cut on the 69. I needed just the sector shaft from this box so the PO cut the shaft so it could be mailed __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet) |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Let's Go!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,912
|
So the sector shaft is pulling out of the box? That's friggin' scary, man. You may want to upgrade to a later box (see above Coolerman post) since you're going to the trouble of removing it anyway.
__________________ Toyota still builds real Cruisers. They sell them overseas. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Just looked at SOR's site and according to them the steering box is the same from 58-72. So I too am now confused by your pics. Exactly how does that box pictured mount to the frame? It appears that the frame mount is the lower part of the clamp?
Take some pics of the whole box so we can see this style box... __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet) |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
elder statesman
|
Quote:
2. The 68 and newer cruisers use the 4 bolt pedestal mount that you have pictured. The 66 and older use the clamshell. I am not sure, but I believe the 67s use the clamshell as well. 3. The sector shafts are the same between the two styles, but the worm gears are different and NOT interchangeable. 4. It IS totally possible to update the steering box from the clamshell to pedestal mount, and that is exactly what I have done on the 65swb. I made mention of it in my build thread in the 45 forum. You will want to stick to the 68 and early 69 boxes if you want to keep your original steering wheel. __________________ A carbureted man in a fuel injected world. 65SWB45, 64LWB45, 68FJ40,72V840, 76HJ45[going],84FJ60[gone], 76K5, 73Sub454, 89Sub7.4[gone], 97Sub5.7 TLCA delegate, Trail Crew-LAC TLCA, The White Trash of the Elwood Chapter my website: http://www.marksoffroad.net |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 | |
|
elder statesman
|
Quote:
Once the steering box is properly secured, that tube can be welded [even in place]. Best Mark A. __________________ A carbureted man in a fuel injected world. 65SWB45, 64LWB45, 68FJ40,72V840, 76HJ45[going],84FJ60[gone], 76K5, 73Sub454, 89Sub7.4[gone], 97Sub5.7 TLCA delegate, Trail Crew-LAC TLCA, The White Trash of the Elwood Chapter my website: http://www.marksoffroad.net |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SAN DIEGO
Posts: 301
|
Thanks for the replies. Sounds like fixing my current box is not a good idea then?
Well, after cleaning up the box, I found that I am missing a bolt, and then a nut... The threaded insert for the bolt, I don't know where that would attach to, I'd imagine that is what is missing.. some sort of mount for the box to stay in one place!! Here are some more pictures. Any more help would be appreciated. Right now, I would like to keep my manual steering as the PS conversion is not going to happen for at least a few months... Id like to fix this though so I am able to drive it. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() __________________ 1966 GREEN FJ-40 SOA, Stock F Motor. - Runs, stops and leaks. ![]() 1996 Toyota 4Runner - 35's, locked, armored 2003 Toyota Tundra - Stock 1996 Toyota Camry - Stock |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SAN DIEGO
Posts: 301
|
Oops, I misread the posts.
65lwb, you think this box is fixable then... Basically, the clam shell style mount needs to be tightened, correct? I had tried tightening the two bolts, but, they are torqued down very tightly already. Maybe trying to remove some metal would be my next step. I'm assuming a machine shop could get the curvature somewhat perfect. Yes, the crack is on the steering shaft cover. Looking again, the missing bolt does not appear to be a mount of anything. The missing nut just tightens the collar around the steering shaft. As for the rounded thing sitting on top, what is that? ![]() __________________ 1966 GREEN FJ-40 SOA, Stock F Motor. - Runs, stops and leaks. ![]() 1996 Toyota 4Runner - 35's, locked, armored 2003 Toyota Tundra - Stock 1996 Toyota Camry - Stock |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Let's Go!
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,912
|
So that's how the box mounts? I've honestly never looked at an old box like that closely. It's an easy fix from the looks of it.
__________________ Toyota still builds real Cruisers. They sell them overseas. |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 | |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Quote:
You should be able to just take off enough metal with a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder? Doesn't have to be machined perfectly... ![]() Another idea would be to use some kind of thin shim material like a piece of cut up beer can or maybe a piece of copper sheet or , well you get the idea... Put the nut back on the steering column, it is what attaches the column to the box! __________________ !Oy my 1971 FJ40 Not Road Legal http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site) http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SAN DIEGO
Posts: 301
|
So I am not missing any seals, bearings, etc? Ok. I'll try just tightening it down some with a shim possibly.
When I DO tighten everything down, do I just "center" the box in the clamp, say I have 2" of full motion from side to side, I'll just set it at 1" Lastly, there is no oil in the box, I read your writeup Coolerman, and I just use regular 90w gear oil? __________________ 1966 GREEN FJ-40 SOA, Stock F Motor. - Runs, stops and leaks. ![]() 1996 Toyota 4Runner - 35's, locked, armored 2003 Toyota Tundra - Stock 1996 Toyota Camry - Stock |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
I wouldn't use a shim, I'd take some material off the top of the clamp at the flat surface. It should be pretty straight forward to do with a belt sander or even a flat file.
There was oil in there, so it's likely the new oil will just leak out. 90w is correct. __________________ トヨタさん、ありがとうございました。 My '78 FJ40 - '73 and '78 FJ40 parts FS - WTB:Olive (653) Bib and Windshield frame -- Originally Posted by OZCAL Woke up the next day with a partially detached retina, wrapped in a sheet on a wooden floor, in a storeroom upstairs from a barbershop. |
|
|
|
|
|
#16 | |
|
IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SAN DIEGO
Posts: 301
|
Quote:
The truck was not driven for about 4 years, so I'm assuming the seals are dead. Looks like I'll be rebuilding anyways. __________________ 1966 GREEN FJ-40 SOA, Stock F Motor. - Runs, stops and leaks. ![]() 1996 Toyota 4Runner - 35's, locked, armored 2003 Toyota Tundra - Stock 1996 Toyota Camry - Stock |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#17 |
|
IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: SAN DIEGO
Posts: 301
|
FIXED!
Thanks guys for the help. All I did was grind down the flat part on the upper clamp piece about 1mm or so. Now the steering is very tight! __________________ 1966 GREEN FJ-40 SOA, Stock F Motor. - Runs, stops and leaks. ![]() 1996 Toyota 4Runner - 35's, locked, armored 2003 Toyota Tundra - Stock 1996 Toyota Camry - Stock |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Hotel Las Vegas | Free Advertising | MPAA | Debt | Fast Loans |