Hello- new BJ42 owner- Australia. - Page 4

hes21 · 05-09-08, 09:18 PM

Hey beejay,

I think you need an engineers certificate for those rear seats seeing as they never came standard on a landcruiser. It may not help just passing roadworthy with them in, as they don't take photos or note types of seats etc...

beejay42 · 05-09-08, 10:16 PM

Thanks hes21,
yeah I won't be putting the seat in for roadworthy-

When I do put it in, it will be in a way that is not too hard to remove- also it will be used mostly for wheelin and holidays (and at that, pretty tame stuff compared to most around here)- so I don't really anticipate any problems with not having an engineers cert. It will be rare that I ever need to drive on the road with more than two (or even one) passengers. And if do start to use it more frequently, or have problems, I will contact the company that made and installed it for the guy I bought it off (made for a BJ42) to try to arrange a 're-intallation' and an eng. cert.

Or maybe I could just put an LX badge on my truck and paint some stripes on the back seats to match the front

Lostmarbles-
but I dun wanna drill holes in ma new blinkers

If its going to be a problem, maybe I could focus on making them actually watertight- with the addition of a little silicon or rubber washers on the four screws, etc... maybe even seal in a little bag of that silica stuff from a vitamin jar

...

No garage for mine either.

patches84 · 05-11-08, 05:03 PM

G'day Beejay,

I bought all LED globes for my lights, and since they have a 50,000 hour life span, I completely sealed all of my lights with silicon. If you are interested, I can get the email address of the bloke in Sydney who I got them all from. I also have the part numbers, which is handy. They look really cool, as they are much brighter than the incandescent globes, and they use almost no juice.

As for an engineer's certificate: good on ya. Aussies are far too scared of the gummint for their own good. Wasting money on a Nanny's, er I mean an enginee's certificate for a bloody seat is simply throwing your money away. If you are comfortable with it, then use it! What Big Brother doesn't know won't hurt her.

Cheers,

Josh

jabxyz · 05-11-08, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patches84

G'day Beejay,

I bought all LED globes for my lights, and since they have a 50,000 hour life span, I completely sealed all of my lights with silicon. If you are interested, I can get the email address of the bloke in Sydney who I got them all from. I also have the part numbers, which is handy. They look really cool, as they are much brighter than the incandescent globes, and they use almost no juice.

As for an engineer's certificate: good on ya. Aussies are far too scared of the gummint for their own good. Wasting money on a Nanny's, er I mean an enginee's certificate for a bloody seat is simply throwing your money away. If you are comfortable with it, then use it! What Big Brother doesn't know won't hurt her.

Cheers,

Josh

Josh,
Got any pics of your post LED converted instrument panel? You can PM them to me rather than hijacking Hans's thread. I just cracked open my non functioning panel and was thinking about LEDs as well.
Thanks.

beejay42 · 05-11-08, 09:22 PM

Thanks Josh, I would love the email address and part numbers- that sounds great- and don't worry about highjacking... post up any and all info if you have it- I would like to do a LED conversion on the instrument panel too. Cheers, Hans.

beejay42 · 05-13-08, 05:04 AM

Small update, after trying and failing to make the gear for my window regulator, I bit the bullet and drove out to Halls 4x4 (wreckers) and bought a whole new one- $65... probably just should have gone there straight away.

Primer pump and set of glowplugs arrived this morning. haven't had time to put the primer pump in yet (and I think I am just going to keep the plugs as a spare set now as it is starting and running fine- and the PO just changed them).

after a scrub down yesterday, the instrument panel is still bubbling away in the electrolysis set up- to get the last of the paint off. Then I can repaint it or get it plated- and reconnect everything up.

Oh, and I got my 'kill-switch' (or manual EDIC) working properly- pull it out, it stays out, turn it, it goes back in. Pulled it apart- promptly lost the spring that was out of place (and would have required a 2 second fix) and after searching in vain for the spring for half an hour- began pulling random things apart until I found a similarly sized spring (found one in one of those click-blow-torch ciggy lighters).

slow progress... blah blah blah.

patches84 · 05-13-08, 04:51 PM

G'day BeeJay42 and jabxyz,

I will post up all of the part numbers, etc. when I get home. For now, I will just say that what you need to do on the instrument panel is to pull off the little helmets that cover the globes inside the speedometer cluster. If you pull off the front cover (the bit you are paint-stripping, BeeJay), and look inside, past the speedometer, but above the guages, you will see where the globes for lighting the guages are. They are covered (for no good reason) with a small metal helmet, the only purpose of which is to stop light from getting onto the intruments. Pull this cover off with a pair of needle-nose plyers, and put the cluster back together. You can either use LED or regular blade-style globes, but the difference in lighting is significant.

I did this to my 83 FJ40 back in the early 90s, and it has worked fine ever since. I did it to me troopy in about 96, and it has been fine, and I did it to my 84 FJ40 LX when I got it 2 years ago, and it has been fine- so I know it will not cause problems.... not sure about the engineer's certificate, though.

Cheers,

Josh

beejay42 · 05-13-08, 07:26 PM

Cheers Josh, I'll check that out.

I often cause confusion with my bad terminology- sorry.
The cover to my instrument cluster has already been restored-
here it is.
I am not sure what the PO has had it painted or as it sort of looks, plated in- but it is nicely done. (I am going to ask him today as I might as well try to match it)

what I pulled off and am stripping for re-paint or plate is the middle cover,
this one

Sorry for the confusion-

I am interested however in doing both the LED light conversion for the instrument panel as you have described, and for all the indicator lights. I'll give that 'removing the metal helmut' trick a try- as my wish for the LED conversion there is basically to just get it brighter.

Thanks mate,
Hans.

thebludger · 05-14-08, 05:05 AM

looking good beejay wont be long now i'll be down that soon to pick up the 40 so well have to catch up mate i'll be staying at matts place for a couple of days

cheers
chris

ps here is some pics mate

:: Log in
this is my website mate

patches84 · 05-15-08, 09:56 PM

G'day Beejay42 and jabxyz,

As promised, here is the info for the LED globes. The email is jag-trading@hotmail.com and he is called John. The part numbers are:

2 x 36 LED BA15S WHITE GLOBES (for reverse)
4 x 36 LED BA15S AMBER GLOBES (for indicator)
2 x 36 LED BAY15D RED GLOBES (for stop/tail)
6 x T18 18 LED WHITE GLOBES (for marker lamps)
1 x 36mm 6 LED FESTOONS WHITE (for interior)
2 x 50W LED RESISTORS (for indicators - one resistor per side)

If you want to use the factory indicator relay, then you will need 4 LED resistors- one per side. I only ordered two, and wound up buying an LED flasher instead of using four resistors. If I were to do it over again, I would probably order 4 resistors, however it defeats the purpose of LEDs to reduce amperage because the resistors use draw as much amperage as a regular incandescent globe- but this only affects the indicators.

The very nice thing about the globes is how bright they are, and you don't have to worry about heat ruining or dis-colouring the plastic lenses, because they generate almost no heat. The interior dome light (your door switch may not work beejay due to your older doors) puts out a slightly blue colour, but it doesn't draw much power, so it is worth it I reckon. Remember that these globes don't like water, so you must silicon the lenses on place and the back where the wires go in as well. Given they have a 50,000 hour life, though, you shouldn't have to worry about ever having to replace them.... in theory.

After I put all of these globes in, I left my parking lights on all night just to see what would happen. In the morning, the lights were still just as strong as thery were when I closed the garage door 12 hours earlier, and the engine started as if the bettery were completely full. Let me know what y'all think.

Cheers,

Josh

patches84 · 05-15-08, 10:08 PM

here is a photo of the rear lights with the guard on. I will get a photo of the instrument cluster lights on at night and see how it comes out.

Cheers,

Josh

brisveganbj42 · 05-16-08, 12:12 AM

i was under the impression that LED globes are not ADR approved for use in brakes, indicators, etc. This could be a problem for you so it might be worth checking out first.

beejay42 · 05-16-08, 02:11 AM

Thanks alot for that Josh-
and sorry for the dumbass question- but where do the LED resistors go for the indicators?(I would just go the four resistor way).

And thanks for the headsup Andrew- I'll try to look into that.
Do you know what the rational behind that might be?

patches84 · 05-17-08, 01:29 AM

G'day Lads,

The resistors go between the positive wire for the indicator and the earth. They increase the resistence so that the flasher mechanism works.

I'm not sure if they are legal or not. They work very well, so to me, that is what matters. I have seen many loris and ute trays with LEDs on them, so I'd imagine they are legal. Hard telling, though, as everything seems to be illegal here in Australia at some level.

Here in South Australia, our cars do not have to be inspected by Big Brother. It may be that in Qld or Vic I would get caught and have to say 100 rosaries, I'm not sure.

Cheers,

Josh

beejay42 · 05-20-08, 07:03 AM

Just a little update-
hopefully will be getting the underdash air ducting for the heating soon, and some of the dash switches I am missing for the heater, fan, and fresh vent- (cheers Hamish!).

I haven't been able to find a stock gear shifting knob (mine came with a loose 5 speed knob just sitting on it- different thread so wouldn't screw on)- so I have made a couple on my lathe.
heres some photos,

first one out of salvaged River Red Gum and brass,
second one out of a salvaged mystery dead tree in my old yard, and 316 stainless.
may not be everyones cup of tea- but feel free to offer preferences.

I think I like the materials of the second one (the paler wood) but the shape of the first...
The red gum is great because it is hard as nails- but the red and the brass.... sort of makes me feel like it is a bit better suited to my old wooden boat...

Not to take anything away from our already undervalued River Red Gum (better known as railway sleepers or firewood) but I love this mystery pale timber of mine (have made quite a few tool handles and such out of it)- I suspect it is some sort of fruit tree wood- either way it is beautiful in texture, grain and fragrence- photos just don't do it justice... but then the ballish shape of it isn't as comfortable in the palm as the other one, and the metal ferule is probably a bit big (not to mention the bottom of it -although invisable in use- is buggered up).

Anyway, might be of interest to some- got a preference?

btw, both are simply oiled (no stain or anything) with a homemade Danish oil sort of mix- linseed oil, tung oil, and a dribble of varnish.

lostmarbles · 05-20-08, 03:24 PM

Hey.

It's great to personalise one's cruiser Hans.

It must be something generic with us lot. I mean look at Marshall's (Trollhole's) engine!!!

But then we're both a bit more "moderate" I suspect.

I'm going to "personalise" the "diesel" sign on my "fuel filler cover door" soon and I'll probably post photos of that in a few months.

So you do BOTH wood and metal turning!

......Interesting.

I'm always scared about wood and I hate the dust. And I prefer metal because with metal you can easily fill in holes or other defects/mistakes with more metal and no-one would ever know the difference. (Except I've noticed that hot-dip-galvanising tends to expose where metal has been "patched". ... Even though it was undetectable prior to hot-dipping ---- which is weird. The zinc often doesn't "take to" the welded bits the same for some reason. ) But wood is a completely different story in that it is so difficult to "patch/repair". And my experience is that wood can split for no apparent reason too. So I steer clear of it but I do appreciate wood turning/polishing craftmanship like you have displayed here.

patches84 · 05-20-08, 05:24 PM

G'day Beejay42,

I like the custom touch. Did you bend your shifter to be closer to the dash? I would have trouble reaching that knob with it bent away from me like that.

As for shifter knobs: You can use the knob from a Hilux or from a 70 series as well if you want a factory one (although I have to say that I like the ones you made better for your rig)- of course, then you have a 5 speed one again. You are going to be stuck with 40 series if you want the factory 4-speed shift pattern, though. The Hilux 4 speed is an 'H' pattern, and so it will show your reverse in exactly the wrong spot.

Are you going to paint your glove box door when you paint your bolt-in dash? I found that, as long as the colour is close to the factory silver, and all of the panels match, it is hard to tell that the paint is not original.

Cheers,

Josh

beejay42 · 05-20-08, 09:47 PM

Thanks guys,

Lostmarbles,
I am not much of a turner by any means. Where some will only rest when they can turn a perfect bead with their skew and finish it with the briefest touch over from a bit of sandpaper- I might be sanding away for ages, fixing grain tear-out and achieving my final touches of shaping that way. I get the product I want- but I don't exactly get there like I should, nor as quickly.
I have a funky old lathe that someone with a lot more skill than me home-built a long time ago- it is mainly made out wood and a has a great big inside out-side chuck from a metal lathe...
So when I do metal on it- it is simply tooled by hand and the tool rest-it is a little dicey to put it mildly

I have a couple of people close to me with proper metal lathes if I ever need anything real done.
The extent of my lathe work to date has primarily consisted of restoring tools- lots of handles and ferules- which is what these things basically are- with a threaded nut in them.
Virtually everything I use is recycled- I have a big bucket of brass plumbing fittings for ferules, and plenty of stainless left over from making a pushpit (back rail and seat) for my boat. And I like to reclaim timber as well- frankly we throw out and burn so much great timber it makes me a little mad.
Hey and while I'm showing off

here is that pushpit if you wanna see- now this took a long time to make- and then install- out on the water

In general turning,
I've had a few scary moments like wood splitting- but then that was mostly when trying to make things like a bowl... which I then had to think to myself- is a stupid wooden bowl really worth bashing my face in with flying chunk of wood?

I just stick to spindle turning now.

Though I love it, I am sick of turning wood too - the dust and cleaning up drives me crazy. I'd make another knob of some other wood I have (blackwood) but just don't think I can deal with cleaning up again yet

maybe later.

And, I would like to see what you are doing with your diesel sign when you are ready- mine aint looking so good and is begging for a restoration effort.

Josh,
I haven't bent the shifter myself- but it is quite possible a PO did. I had noticed it does seem quite far forward?
Maybe it was done for the third seat in the middle- to get a little more crotch room

I guess I will have to see how it feels on the road- maybe I will have to bend it back again.
I figured that if I can't have the right shift pattern on the knob- then I might as well just go for something I would personally prefer anyway- and putting my hand on this lovely old polished wood all day is greatly preferred by me that that old sticky black rubber.

I hadn't thought about the glove box cover- is that meant to be a different colour?
The handle above the glove box had a rusty patch on it- so I have pulled that off, stripped it and primed it, and may very well paint that what is probably a non-original black- sort of as a feature you know

Considering my truck is never going to be a pristine original- the doors, seats, etc- I am not too greatly concerned now with keeping things strictly original. I don't want to go too far from it- but will just go with what is available and looks good.

I have yet to find out what the PO did with the instrument cluster- what it is painted with or plated with.
If that finish matches my dash panel I am about to do- then I would be happy.

oh, and btw,
I think I will be going for the red gum knob- it just feels so much better in the hand.

Thanks fellas-
sorry for the rant.
Hans.

patches84 · 05-21-08, 12:49 AM

G'day Hans,

Yes, the glove box door is meant to be the same colour as the instrument cover, centre dash and tacho bezel (yours is also probably from an older rig, as the shifting plate on yours is rivetted on, and the 81ish-84 40 series were actually a sticker)- but it is all really preference. I am certainly not an 'all original' guy by any means...

As for the handle, I am not sure that it is factory. Your rig likely came with a padded dash, and it looks as if there are holes where it would bolt on. You will find that they were all the same, so one in nice condition from any year they were available in Australia would fit. (in the US, they were available from 1969ish-1984, here I think it is 81-84, but I could be wrong). There is a light on the bottom of the padded dash which lights up your knobs on the bolt-in centre dash, and it looks as if there is a black plastic cap on your dash where that wire would have come out. I reckon that, if you look back there, you will find a two-pronged plug, meant to go to that light.

As for the colour- I found that the 'silver' colour rattle can from the 'Australian Export' brand at Sprint matches reasonably closely (colour code EX019). The only issue with this is that you have to let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then paint it with a clear coat high gloss top layer, as the paint is not smooth or glossy. It is a pain to paint, as it tends to layer- but after a couple of tries, I figured out how to get it on smoothly. Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Josh

jabxyz · 05-24-08, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patches84

G'day Beejay42 and jabxyz,

As promised, here is the info for the LED globes. The email is jag-trading@hotmail.com and he is called John. The part numbers are:

2 x 36 LED BA15S WHITE GLOBES (for reverse)
4 x 36 LED BA15S AMBER GLOBES (for indicator)
2 x 36 LED BAY15D RED GLOBES (for stop/tail)
6 x T18 18 LED WHITE GLOBES (for marker lamps)
1 x 36mm 6 LED FESTOONS WHITE (for interior)
2 x 50W LED RESISTORS (for indicators - one resistor per side)
Cheers,

Josh

Josh,
Thanks alot this is super helpful. Just to be clear for example:
"2 x 36 LED BA15S WHITE GLOBES (for reverse)"
means that I want to order two of the 36 LED BA15S White Globes correct? I need to modify this a little for the instrument cluster so that I keep three white festoons, one each for the turn signals and high beam light and three red festoons for the remainder of the panel so that it is backlit in red for preservation of night vision purposes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by patches84

G'day Lads,

The resistors go between the positive wire for the indicator and the earth. They increase the resistence so that the flasher mechanism works.

Cheers,

Josh

Josh, Thanks this is really helpful. Is ther any chance that you have a pic of exactly where in your setup you put the resistors. Something in the village idiot style for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by beejay42

I haven't been able to find a stock gear shifting knob (mine came with a loose 5 speed knob just sitting on it- different thread so wouldn't screw on)- so I have made a couple on my lathe.
heres some photos,

first one out of salvaged River Red Gum and brass,
second one out of a salvaged mystery dead tree in my old yard, and 316 stainless.
may not be everyones cup of tea- but feel free to offer preferences.

I think I like the materials of the second one (the paler wood) but the shape of the first...
The red gum is great because it is hard as nails- but the red and the brass.... sort of makes me feel like it is a bit better suited to my old wooden boat...

Not to take anything away from our already undervalued River Red Gum (better known as railway sleepers or firewood) but I love this mystery pale timber of mine (have made quite a few tool handles and such out of it)- I suspect it is some sort of fruit tree wood- either way it is beautiful in texture, grain and fragrence- photos just don't do it justice... but then the ballish shape of it isn't as comfortable in the palm as the other one, and the metal ferule is probably a bit big (not to mention the bottom of it -although invisable in use- is buggered up).

Anyway, might be of interest to some- got a preference?

btw, both are simply oiled (no stain or anything) with a homemade Danish oil sort of mix- linseed oil, tung oil, and a dribble of varnish.

Hans,
Beautiful work. I actually like the shape of the paler mystery wood knob but in the Red River Gum and brass. Let me know if you ever feel like doing one up in your spare time as I would be interested in a couple.

Josh and Hans,
Because of all of the help from you guys I have decided to go with the original instrument cluster and not the after market replacements. The gauges look good now and will be what I really want if the LEDs brighten them even a little more. I don't have a cool center console instrument panel like you guys, must be an Aussie thing, so I will still have do something to bring some order to that area of my dash. I'll let you guys know once I figure that out.
Thanks again,
John
P.S. Josh, I love your rig baby!!!

I have absolutely no need for one now but it falls squarely in the category of "if I had all the money in the world I'd have one of these just in case I wanted to ...." Any chance that you could post up some pics of the interior on your thread?

John

beejay42 · 05-24-08, 09:10 PM

Thanks for the compliments John- Glad you like the River Red Gum. It is one of my favourite timbers.. I mainly get mine from old fence posts and and just random chunks I find. This means it is really old and weathered and has become even harder and properly dimensionally stable.
We've probably paved most of the corner of this countries railway lines in the stuff- thankfully we have now realised that concrete sleepers last longer and are cheaper than the meagre profits gained by further decimating our River Red Gum forests for this- however we still burn it by the truckload for firewood.

I'll see what I can do in a month or so when my workload lightens up. I reckon I should be able to do one for you. You'll just have to let me know the exact size thread that your gear stick is- are you going with the 5 speed? Either way, try out a few nuts on it and figure that out to make sure.
There will be no problem doing the same shape as the paler wood- but the ferule will have to be a bit shorter- ie, probably maximum length would be double that of the one on the red gum one I made. Because I would be working down from a brass plumbing fitting rather than starting with a stainless pipe- it limits my options, and insinsts that the end product will probably be little odd in dimensions.
Also, I am not sure If I will have a brass nut to screw it into (like my red gum one has- I got lucky finding one)- It might have to be steel (invisable in use anyway)- We'll see.

Joe Egolf · 05-24-08, 10:26 PM

IH8MUD Addict

Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: hopefully fishing here
TLCA# 13
Posts: 566 This describes my 1981 BJ452 from NZ Exactly,ie 2 wipers ,4 speed,and no roll bar

Welcome, and nice cruiser. Does it have a dash pad? I have seen a few BJ-42s with 4 speed and 2 windshield wipers but they didn't come with dash pads or roll bars. Talk about bringing sand to the beach by importing it into Australia, but I guess lots of Aussie rigs are now in the U.S. now or so it seems.

05-09-08, 10:16 PM	#92
beejay42 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 191	Thanks hes21, yeah I won't be putting the seat in for roadworthy- When I do put it in, it will be in a way that is not too hard to remove- also it will be used mostly for wheelin and holidays (and at that, pretty tame stuff compared to most around here)- so I don't really anticipate any problems with not having an engineers cert. It will be rare that I ever need to drive on the road with more than two (or even one) passengers. And if do start to use it more frequently, or have problems, I will contact the company that made and installed it for the guy I bought it off (made for a BJ42) to try to arrange a 're-intallation' and an eng. cert. Or maybe I could just put an LX badge on my truck and paint some stripes on the back seats to match the front Lostmarbles- but I dun wanna drill holes in ma new blinkers If its going to be a problem, maybe I could focus on making them actually watertight- with the addition of a little silicon or rubber washers on the four screws, etc... maybe even seal in a little bag of that silica stuff from a vitamin jar... No garage for mine either.

05-11-08, 05:03 PM	#93
patches84 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia- originally from Santa Fe, New Mexico USA TLCA# 2344 Posts: 150	G'day Beejay, I bought all LED globes for my lights, and since they have a 50,000 hour life span, I completely sealed all of my lights with silicon. If you are interested, I can get the email address of the bloke in Sydney who I got them all from. I also have the part numbers, which is handy. They look really cool, as they are much brighter than the incandescent globes, and they use almost no juice. As for an engineer's certificate: good on ya. Aussies are far too scared of the gummint for their own good. Wasting money on a Nanny's, er I mean an enginee's certificate for a bloody seat is simply throwing your money away. If you are comfortable with it, then use it! What Big Brother doesn't know won't hurt her. Cheers, Josh __________________ 4/1984 HJ47 'Patches' The Vortec Vixen 7/1984 FJ40 LX 'Lexie' 9/1980 BJ40 'For Sale' Indecision may or may not be my problem. Jimmy Buffett for President. http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-...45-troopy.html

05-13-08, 04:51 PM	#97
patches84 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia- originally from Santa Fe, New Mexico USA TLCA# 2344 Posts: 150	G'day BeeJay42 and jabxyz, I will post up all of the part numbers, etc. when I get home. For now, I will just say that what you need to do on the instrument panel is to pull off the little helmets that cover the globes inside the speedometer cluster. If you pull off the front cover (the bit you are paint-stripping, BeeJay), and look inside, past the speedometer, but above the guages, you will see where the globes for lighting the guages are. They are covered (for no good reason) with a small metal helmet, the only purpose of which is to stop light from getting onto the intruments. Pull this cover off with a pair of needle-nose plyers, and put the cluster back together. You can either use LED or regular blade-style globes, but the difference in lighting is significant. I did this to my 83 FJ40 back in the early 90s, and it has worked fine ever since. I did it to me troopy in about 96, and it has been fine, and I did it to my 84 FJ40 LX when I got it 2 years ago, and it has been fine- so I know it will not cause problems.... not sure about the engineer's certificate, though. Cheers, Josh __________________ 4/1984 HJ47 'Patches' The Vortec Vixen 7/1984 FJ40 LX 'Lexie' 9/1980 BJ40 'For Sale' Indecision may or may not be my problem. Jimmy Buffett for President. http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-...45-troopy.html

05-14-08, 05:05 AM	#99
thebludger IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: NSW Australia Posts: 44	looking good beejay wont be long now i'll be down that soon to pick up the 40 so well have to catch up mate i'll be staying at matts place for a couple of days cheers chris ps here is some pics mate :: Log in this is my website mate __________________ 3rd Rock 4x4 ALL AUSSIE 4x4

05-15-08, 09:56 PM	#100
patches84 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia- originally from Santa Fe, New Mexico USA TLCA# 2344 Posts: 150	G'day Beejay42 and jabxyz, As promised, here is the info for the LED globes. The email is jag-trading@hotmail.com and he is called John. The part numbers are: 2 x 36 LED BA15S WHITE GLOBES (for reverse) 4 x 36 LED BA15S AMBER GLOBES (for indicator) 2 x 36 LED BAY15D RED GLOBES (for stop/tail) 6 x T18 18 LED WHITE GLOBES (for marker lamps) 1 x 36mm 6 LED FESTOONS WHITE (for interior) 2 x 50W LED RESISTORS (for indicators - one resistor per side) If you want to use the factory indicator relay, then you will need 4 LED resistors- one per side. I only ordered two, and wound up buying an LED flasher instead of using four resistors. If I were to do it over again, I would probably order 4 resistors, however it defeats the purpose of LEDs to reduce amperage because the resistors use draw as much amperage as a regular incandescent globe- but this only affects the indicators. The very nice thing about the globes is how bright they are, and you don't have to worry about heat ruining or dis-colouring the plastic lenses, because they generate almost no heat. The interior dome light (your door switch may not work beejay due to your older doors) puts out a slightly blue colour, but it doesn't draw much power, so it is worth it I reckon. Remember that these globes don't like water, so you must silicon the lenses on place and the back where the wires go in as well. Given they have a 50,000 hour life, though, you shouldn't have to worry about ever having to replace them.... in theory. After I put all of these globes in, I left my parking lights on all night just to see what would happen. In the morning, the lights were still just as strong as thery were when I closed the garage door 12 hours earlier, and the engine started as if the bettery were completely full. Let me know what y'all think. Cheers, Josh __________________ 4/1984 HJ47 'Patches' The Vortec Vixen 7/1984 FJ40 LX 'Lexie' 9/1980 BJ40 'For Sale' Indecision may or may not be my problem. Jimmy Buffett for President. http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-...45-troopy.html Last edited by patches84; 05-15-08 at 10:03 PM.

05-09-08, 09:18 PM	#91
hes21 IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 26	Hey beejay, I think you need an engineers certificate for those rear seats seeing as they never came standard on a landcruiser. It may not help just passing roadworthy with them in, as they don't take photos or note types of seats etc...

05-11-08, 09:22 PM	#95
beejay42 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 191	Thanks Josh, I would love the email address and part numbers- that sounds great- and don't worry about highjacking... post up any and all info if you have it- I would like to do a LED conversion on the instrument panel too. Cheers, Hans.

05-13-08, 05:04 AM	#96
beejay42 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 191	Small update, after trying and failing to make the gear for my window regulator, I bit the bullet and drove out to Halls 4x4 (wreckers) and bought a whole new one- $65... probably just should have gone there straight away. Primer pump and set of glowplugs arrived this morning. haven't had time to put the primer pump in yet (and I think I am just going to keep the plugs as a spare set now as it is starting and running fine- and the PO just changed them). after a scrub down yesterday, the instrument panel is still bubbling away in the electrolysis set up- to get the last of the paint off. Then I can repaint it or get it plated- and reconnect everything up. Oh, and I got my 'kill-switch' (or manual EDIC) working properly- pull it out, it stays out, turn it, it goes back in. Pulled it apart- promptly lost the spring that was out of place (and would have required a 2 second fix) and after searching in vain for the spring for half an hour- began pulling random things apart until I found a similarly sized spring (found one in one of those click-blow-torch ciggy lighters). slow progress... blah blah blah.

05-13-08, 07:26 PM	#98
beejay42 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 191	Cheers Josh, I'll check that out. I often cause confusion with my bad terminology- sorry. The cover to my instrument cluster has already been restored- here it is. I am not sure what the PO has had it painted or as it sort of looks, plated in- but it is nicely done. (I am going to ask him today as I might as well try to match it) what I pulled off and am stripping for re-paint or plate is the middle cover, this one Sorry for the confusion- I am interested however in doing both the LED light conversion for the instrument panel as you have described, and for all the indicator lights. I'll give that 'removing the metal helmut' trick a try- as my wish for the LED conversion there is basically to just get it brighter. Thanks mate, Hans.

05-15-08, 10:08 PM	#101
patches84 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia- originally from Santa Fe, New Mexico USA TLCA# 2344 Posts: 150	here is a photo of the rear lights with the guard on. I will get a photo of the instrument cluster lights on at night and see how it comes out. Cheers, Josh Attached Images __________________ 4/1984 HJ47 'Patches' The Vortec Vixen 7/1984 FJ40 LX 'Lexie' 9/1980 BJ40 'For Sale' Indecision may or may not be my problem. Jimmy Buffett for President. http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-...45-troopy.html

05-16-08, 12:12 AM	#102
brisveganbj42 IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: brisneyland.qld.au Posts: 285	i was under the impression that LED globes are not ADR approved for use in brakes, indicators, etc. This could be a problem for you so it might be worth checking out first. __________________ '84 BJ42 with all the fruit - fun to drive 7 days a week! 1GB Free Image hosting @ PHAT42.COM! Join the crew @ phat42! my 'shed' 3rdrock4x4 club

05-16-08, 02:11 AM	#103
beejay42 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 191	Thanks alot for that Josh- and sorry for the dumbass question- but where do the LED resistors go for the indicators?(I would just go the four resistor way). And thanks for the headsup Andrew- I'll try to look into that. Do you know what the rational behind that might be?

05-17-08, 01:29 AM	#104
patches84 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia- originally from Santa Fe, New Mexico USA TLCA# 2344 Posts: 150	G'day Lads, The resistors go between the positive wire for the indicator and the earth. They increase the resistence so that the flasher mechanism works. I'm not sure if they are legal or not. They work very well, so to me, that is what matters. I have seen many loris and ute trays with LEDs on them, so I'd imagine they are legal. Hard telling, though, as everything seems to be illegal here in Australia at some level. Here in South Australia, our cars do not have to be inspected by Big Brother. It may be that in Qld or Vic I would get caught and have to say 100 rosaries, I'm not sure. Cheers, Josh __________________ 4/1984 HJ47 'Patches' The Vortec Vixen 7/1984 FJ40 LX 'Lexie' 9/1980 BJ40 'For Sale' Indecision may or may not be my problem. Jimmy Buffett for President. http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-...45-troopy.html

05-20-08, 07:03 AM	#105
beejay42 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 191	Just a little update- hopefully will be getting the underdash air ducting for the heating soon, and some of the dash switches I am missing for the heater, fan, and fresh vent- (cheers Hamish!). I haven't been able to find a stock gear shifting knob (mine came with a loose 5 speed knob just sitting on it- different thread so wouldn't screw on)- so I have made a couple on my lathe. heres some photos, first one out of salvaged River Red Gum and brass, second one out of a salvaged mystery dead tree in my old yard, and 316 stainless. may not be everyones cup of tea- but feel free to offer preferences. I think I like the materials of the second one (the paler wood) but the shape of the first... The red gum is great because it is hard as nails- but the red and the brass.... sort of makes me feel like it is a bit better suited to my old wooden boat... Not to take anything away from our already undervalued River Red Gum (better known as railway sleepers or firewood) but I love this mystery pale timber of mine (have made quite a few tool handles and such out of it)- I suspect it is some sort of fruit tree wood- either way it is beautiful in texture, grain and fragrence- photos just don't do it justice... but then the ballish shape of it isn't as comfortable in the palm as the other one, and the metal ferule is probably a bit big (not to mention the bottom of it -although invisable in use- is buggered up). Anyway, might be of interest to some- got a preference? btw, both are simply oiled (no stain or anything) with a homemade Danish oil sort of mix- linseed oil, tung oil, and a dribble of varnish.

05-20-08, 03:24 PM	#106
lostmarbles IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: New Zealand (The other side of the world to most of ya!!!) Posts: 1,824	Hey. It's great to personalise one's cruiser Hans. It must be something generic with us lot. I mean look at Marshall's (Trollhole's) engine!!! But then we're both a bit more "moderate" I suspect. I'm going to "personalise" the "diesel" sign on my "fuel filler cover door" soon and I'll probably post photos of that in a few months. So you do BOTH wood and metal turning! ......Interesting. I'm always scared about wood and I hate the dust. And I prefer metal because with metal you can easily fill in holes or other defects/mistakes with more metal and no-one would ever know the difference. (Except I've noticed that hot-dip-galvanising tends to expose where metal has been "patched". ... Even though it was undetectable prior to hot-dipping ---- which is weird. The zinc often doesn't "take to" the welded bits the same for some reason. ) But wood is a completely different story in that it is so difficult to "patch/repair". And my experience is that wood can split for no apparent reason too. So I steer clear of it but I do appreciate wood turning/polishing craftmanship like you have displayed here. __________________ Name's really Tom & I have a 1979 BJ40 that is RHD and mainly "original" with Toyota PTO winch, 16" split rims, drums all round, B engine, H41 transmission and 12V electrics that I've owned since 1981 The only people that aren't insane are the ones I don't yet really know.

05-20-08, 05:24 PM	#107
patches84 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia- originally from Santa Fe, New Mexico USA TLCA# 2344 Posts: 150	G'day Beejay42, I like the custom touch. Did you bend your shifter to be closer to the dash? I would have trouble reaching that knob with it bent away from me like that. As for shifter knobs: You can use the knob from a Hilux or from a 70 series as well if you want a factory one (although I have to say that I like the ones you made better for your rig)- of course, then you have a 5 speed one again. You are going to be stuck with 40 series if you want the factory 4-speed shift pattern, though. The Hilux 4 speed is an 'H' pattern, and so it will show your reverse in exactly the wrong spot. Are you going to paint your glove box door when you paint your bolt-in dash? I found that, as long as the colour is close to the factory silver, and all of the panels match, it is hard to tell that the paint is not original. Cheers, Josh __________________ 4/1984 HJ47 'Patches' The Vortec Vixen 7/1984 FJ40 LX 'Lexie' 9/1980 BJ40 'For Sale' Indecision may or may not be my problem. Jimmy Buffett for President. http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-...45-troopy.html

05-20-08, 09:47 PM	#108
beejay42 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 191	Thanks guys, Lostmarbles, I am not much of a turner by any means. Where some will only rest when they can turn a perfect bead with their skew and finish it with the briefest touch over from a bit of sandpaper- I might be sanding away for ages, fixing grain tear-out and achieving my final touches of shaping that way. I get the product I want- but I don't exactly get there like I should, nor as quickly. I have a funky old lathe that someone with a lot more skill than me home-built a long time ago- it is mainly made out wood and a has a great big inside out-side chuck from a metal lathe... So when I do metal on it- it is simply tooled by hand and the tool rest-it is a little dicey to put it mildly I have a couple of people close to me with proper metal lathes if I ever need anything real done. The extent of my lathe work to date has primarily consisted of restoring tools- lots of handles and ferules- which is what these things basically are- with a threaded nut in them. Virtually everything I use is recycled- I have a big bucket of brass plumbing fittings for ferules, and plenty of stainless left over from making a pushpit (back rail and seat) for my boat. And I like to reclaim timber as well- frankly we throw out and burn so much great timber it makes me a little mad. Hey and while I'm showing off here is that pushpit if you wanna see- now this took a long time to make- and then install- out on the water In general turning, I've had a few scary moments like wood splitting- but then that was mostly when trying to make things like a bowl... which I then had to think to myself- is a stupid wooden bowl really worth bashing my face in with flying chunk of wood? I just stick to spindle turning now. Though I love it, I am sick of turning wood too - the dust and cleaning up drives me crazy. I'd make another knob of some other wood I have (blackwood) but just don't think I can deal with cleaning up again yet maybe later. And, I would like to see what you are doing with your diesel sign when you are ready- mine aint looking so good and is begging for a restoration effort. Josh, I haven't bent the shifter myself- but it is quite possible a PO did. I had noticed it does seem quite far forward? Maybe it was done for the third seat in the middle- to get a little more crotch room I guess I will have to see how it feels on the road- maybe I will have to bend it back again. I figured that if I can't have the right shift pattern on the knob- then I might as well just go for something I would personally prefer anyway- and putting my hand on this lovely old polished wood all day is greatly preferred by me that that old sticky black rubber. I hadn't thought about the glove box cover- is that meant to be a different colour? The handle above the glove box had a rusty patch on it- so I have pulled that off, stripped it and primed it, and may very well paint that what is probably a non-original black- sort of as a feature you know Considering my truck is never going to be a pristine original- the doors, seats, etc- I am not too greatly concerned now with keeping things strictly original. I don't want to go too far from it- but will just go with what is available and looks good. I have yet to find out what the PO did with the instrument cluster- what it is painted with or plated with. If that finish matches my dash panel I am about to do- then I would be happy. oh, and btw, I think I will be going for the red gum knob- it just feels so much better in the hand. Thanks fellas- sorry for the rant. Hans.

05-21-08, 12:49 AM	#109
patches84 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia- originally from Santa Fe, New Mexico USA TLCA# 2344 Posts: 150	G'day Hans, Yes, the glove box door is meant to be the same colour as the instrument cover, centre dash and tacho bezel (yours is also probably from an older rig, as the shifting plate on yours is rivetted on, and the 81ish-84 40 series were actually a sticker)- but it is all really preference. I am certainly not an 'all original' guy by any means... As for the handle, I am not sure that it is factory. Your rig likely came with a padded dash, and it looks as if there are holes where it would bolt on. You will find that they were all the same, so one in nice condition from any year they were available in Australia would fit. (in the US, they were available from 1969ish-1984, here I think it is 81-84, but I could be wrong). There is a light on the bottom of the padded dash which lights up your knobs on the bolt-in centre dash, and it looks as if there is a black plastic cap on your dash where that wire would have come out. I reckon that, if you look back there, you will find a two-pronged plug, meant to go to that light. As for the colour- I found that the 'silver' colour rattle can from the 'Australian Export' brand at Sprint matches reasonably closely (colour code EX019). The only issue with this is that you have to let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then paint it with a clear coat high gloss top layer, as the paint is not smooth or glossy. It is a pain to paint, as it tends to layer- but after a couple of tries, I figured out how to get it on smoothly. Hope this helps. Cheers, Josh Attached Images __________________ 4/1984 HJ47 'Patches' The Vortec Vixen 7/1984 FJ40 LX 'Lexie' 9/1980 BJ40 'For Sale' Indecision may or may not be my problem. Jimmy Buffett for President. http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-...45-troopy.html

05-24-08, 09:10 PM	#111
beejay42 IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 191	Thanks for the compliments John- Glad you like the River Red Gum. It is one of my favourite timbers.. I mainly get mine from old fence posts and and just random chunks I find. This means it is really old and weathered and has become even harder and properly dimensionally stable. We've probably paved most of the corner of this countries railway lines in the stuff- thankfully we have now realised that concrete sleepers last longer and are cheaper than the meagre profits gained by further decimating our River Red Gum forests for this- however we still burn it by the truckload for firewood. I'll see what I can do in a month or so when my workload lightens up. I reckon I should be able to do one for you. You'll just have to let me know the exact size thread that your gear stick is- are you going with the 5 speed? Either way, try out a few nuts on it and figure that out to make sure. There will be no problem doing the same shape as the paler wood- but the ferule will have to be a bit shorter- ie, probably maximum length would be double that of the one on the red gum one I made. Because I would be working down from a brass plumbing fitting rather than starting with a stainless pipe- it limits my options, and insinsts that the end product will probably be little odd in dimensions. Also, I am not sure If I will have a brass nut to screw it into (like my red gum one has- I got lucky finding one)- It might have to be steel (invisable in use anyway)- We'll see. Last edited by beejay42; 05-25-08 at 03:06 AM.

05-24-08, 10:26 PM	#112
Joe Egolf IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: W.Suffield Ct Posts: 437	4 speed and 2 wipers IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: hopefully fishing here TLCA# 13 Posts: 566 This describes my 1981 BJ452 from NZ Exactly,ie 2 wipers ,4 speed,and no roll bar Welcome, and nice cruiser. Does it have a dash pad? I have seen a few BJ-42s with 4 speed and 2 windshield wipers but they didn't come with dash pads or roll bars. Talk about bringing sand to the beach by importing it into Australia, but I guess lots of Aussie rigs are now in the U.S. now or so it seems.