74' f engine rebuild (1 Viewer)

[rsbcruiser]

The garage rebuild on my 74 f engine didn't take. This time I am going all out with a total rebuild, gulp. So here goes. Of course I am publishing before the results are known so.........second gulp. This thread is a follow on to my thread "Valve gap grows on my 74 f" and "Cracked block". So those two threads should catch you up to the present.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Don't do like I did, do this first

I show you this pic first as a reminder. Before removing your engine, break the pulley nut loose. Much easier than the method shown here. Yep, bent that Harbor freight pry bar. The crank is getting a regrind so not worried about damaging it too much. Used the 2" X 4" there to make sure I didn't break the engine stand. This job required my big ass 3/4" drive ratchet and the ol 3lb drilling hammer to break that nut loose. REALLY UGLY. So, you have been warned.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Preparation

I cleaned my garage up first. Starting at teardown I am taking measures to insure a clean rebuild. I put the oil absorbant away, cleaned up. I plan on going Mr. Clean on the shop before the block returns from the rebuilder.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Tear down organizaton

With no need to lighten (you know, those extra bolts laying around after the job is finished) my pig I am bagging hardware as I go. I throw the hardware in a sack with its associated part.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Skipping a few steps

I took the liberty of skipping a FEW steps. Such as engine extraction, head removal and all, fairly straighforward. Let me see.....disconnect from the motor mounts by removing the upper bolts, leave the mounts in place. When removing your pushrods and if you plan on reusing your lifters keep your rods in order with front clearly marked. Picture is just eye candy. Oh ya, I pulled with a disconnect between the bell housing and the transmision.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Dealing with the lifters

Remove the lifter galley cover. I used a strong magnet to extract the lifters. Only one came out with ease. I left the rest in place for later, laying a towel on the floor as insurance since the next step is to turn the motor oil pan up. Believe it or not but you can get into alot of trouble here, somewhere in this thread I will show you exactly what I mean.

 

[rsbcruiser]

More insurance

I finally have an ap for the gorrila tape. This picture shows some more insurance, i have taped the deck top to insure that no piston drops when I remove the rod caps.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Oil pan removal

I use a T handle on lower torque fasteners, goes fast.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Breaking the pan loose

It is possible to save this valuable gasket if you are carefull. I used my brassy to tap in a srewdriver. Working around till the pan broke loose.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Oil pan gasket

I worked a finger under the gasket, using the finger as a wedge to carefully seperate the gasket from the block.

 

[rsbcruiser]

How the heck

Do you see the abraded circle on the oil pan splash guard? I rebuilt the first time before I met you'all. Wished I could have shown this nifty little anomaly. One of those be carefull for what you wish for things. Guess how it got there and win the prize! A hint, Boy was I surprized to see the fist sized wad of copper coat and one other thing rolling around in my oil pan when I first removed it last spring. Another hint, the motor still ran and had some oil pressure after this occured. Sounded like Thors' blacksmith shop when running. Convinced me! Two things, one, F engines are mucho duro and don't EVER go here without a torque wrench.

 

[rsbcruiser]

Timing gear wear

Remove the front pulley and the timing gear cover. Use a dinky feeler guage to check for wear between the timing gears. I could not fit a 0.006" feeler between the gears, super yahoo! If over 0.008" then I would have to replace these mega dollar gears.

 

[rsbcruiser]

cam removal

Align the cam gear holes with the two opposing bolts. Remove those two buggers.

 

[aksnowryder]

So, the pins didn't hold? Did they leak or what happened there?

 

[rsbcruiser]

Extracting the cam

CAREFULLY remove the cam. I reached down into the guts of the beast to ease her out. Oh, good idea NOT to start taking the bottom end apart first, not that I'd do something that dumb, Jeez. The lifters are out of the way, aint gravity great!

 

[rsbcruiser]

The oil pump

Remove the oil pump pickup first. Disassemble the pickup and remove all the crud in there. Disconnect the pipe at the block, remove the pump and the pipe fitting. out of sequence here, do this before removing the cam. Also a good idea at this time to remove the oil pump mount. Can any of you tell me, do the 2fs have the pump mount integral with the block? See those screws on the pump? Use a impact driver to pop those loose. Open up your pump and inspect for wear and damage.

 

[rsbcruiser]

So, the pins didn't hold? Did they leak or what happened there?

Getting her ready for the rebuilders, they will tell me if the stitching took when they pressure test. If not then they have other solututions short of welding. Maybe I will have them weld the crack anyways, I'll see what they have to say.

 

[n2666s]

Great thread...........hope won't have top do it any time soon......but will keep it for reference...

Lou

 

[IDave]

Ahh, the memories

 

[rsbcruiser]

Ahh, the memories

Ya and I can't stop myself IDave, plan on spinning off an install manifold thread so I can show off my new Downey headers. Have to get the pig on the road so I can go and curl up with my nice comfy threads down in Fj 55 heaven. Hoping the fun up here in tech will end before I go bankrupt.