[eleblanc]

This is drag link to pitman arm, is this suppose to be, watch video! TY.

http://www.ericleblanc.com//files/er.../drag_link.wmv

[Poser]

You will have some movement in that piece...


Remove the cotter pin on the end of that steering piece, and turn the adjusting screw in, (the cotter pin locks the adjusting screw in place) and see if it removes some of that free-play.

[psuknow98]

I had play in mine. I would take it apart, clean it up, and grease it.

[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

This is drag link to pitman arm, is this suppose to be.....

Yip. It is certainly designed to have that "twisting play". (Perfectly normal.)

You should also get some play (but much less and without noise) where the ball moves back-and-forth in the drag link socket when you wobble the steering wheel from side to side (with the wheels firmly on the ground). If this movement becomes excessive (from wear in the balljoint etc), you can adjusted-it-out via that big screwdriver slot (once the split pin is removed). There is a spring beneath that screw that applies clamping-pressure on the halves of the socket. So turning the screw varies the clamping pressure. (Of course don't forget to fit another split pin after adjustment.)

[eleblanc]

I had someone turn the wheel while i'm looking down there and notice that the arm on the cone shaft seems to be loose. I had notice that before and tried to tight it using a large hole washer, but that made the steering harder to turn, mostlikely because the arm was rubbing the cone housing. Seems like the spline on the cone shaft or the rotating arm is worn out. Which usually worn out? There doesn't seems to be loose on rotation, but the change of direction makes arm go up and down, like if the spilt was loose.

[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

..........the arm on the cone shaft .......

Sorry eleblanc. I'm not sure what parts you're referring to now.

Are you referring to the "steering idler".

(I probably need another photo or video because we probably use different names for the same things since we live on opposite sides of the world.)

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by lostmarbles

Sorry eleblanc. I'm not sure what parts you're referring to now.

Are you referring to the "steering idler".

(I probably need another photo or video because we probably use different names for the same things since we live on opposite sides of the world.)

The part on which the drag link connects and on which the steering damper connects also, not sure about the name of the rod that goes to the tie rod. It it the part the rotates when you turn attach to the cone. Let me try to video and show the loose.

[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

The part on which the drag link connects and on which the steering damper connects also, not sure about the name of the rof that goes to the tie rod. It it the part the rotates when you turn attach to the cone. Let me try to video and show the loose.

Okay. Now I'm with you eleblanc. It is what I (rightly or wrongly) call the "steering idler".

I've never had mine apart so I'll leave it to others to give you advice on that one.

(I was worried you were talking about where the pitman arm connects with the steering box.)

[eleblanc]

see loose on video....

http://www.ericleblanc.com//files/er...ideo/link1.wmv

http://www.ericleblanc.com//files/er...ideo/link2.wmv

[grant5127]

You got trouble brewing there... the big washer is not kosher either.... you better disassemble that and get a better look........

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by grant5127

You got trouble brewing there... the big washer is not kosher either.... you better disassemble that and get a better look........

That big washer was installed by me after i dissamble the whole cone. There should be a lock washer there, but thewasher you see was installed after i got a large hole washer so that i get that thing tight but the steering was harder to steer.

Originally i thought the spline were taper, so that there was at least a way to tight this, but there is a shoulder before the spline, so when you tight the bolt it sits on the shoulder and doesn't tight the rotating arms, so if there is some loose between the cone shaft and arm i guess i get what you see on the video. I'll go to toyota in the morning to see price for cone shaft and arm.

[lostmarbles]

Just looked at your videos. ------That movement within the splined-joint is "quite considerable" (BAD) and should be fixed as soon as possible.

Such movement would result in a definite FAILURE in any "warrant of fitness check" done in this country. (Older vehicles here must undergo these checks every 6 months to able to be legally driven on our roads.)

As I said before, I have no experience on repairing these specifically, but my suspicion is, if the "guts" of the "idler" is OK, then a Loctite product like "quickmetal" could perhaps fix it by taking up the wear in the splined joint. (If you study the disassembled parts you'll gain a better idea of this.)

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by lostmarbles

Just looked at your videos. ------That movement within the splined-joint is "quite considerable" (BAD) and should be fixed as soon as possible.

Such movement would result in a definite FAILURE in any "warrant of fitness check" done in this country. (Older vehicles here must undergo these checks every 6 months to able to be legally driven on our roads.)

As I said before, I have no experience on repairing these specifically, but my suspicion is, if the "guts" of the "idler" is OK, then a Loctite product like "quickmetal" could perhaps fix it by taking up the wear in the splined joint. (If you study the disassembled parts you'll gain a better idea of this.)

I went to the dealer this morning and i notice that i am missing a washer in between the cone housing and the arm. I will get this missing part installed and will see if that fix it, but my guess is that it will, since the washer and nut under the arm basicly stop tightning when they hit the spline shoulder on the shaft. Don't know for how long that washer hasn't been there but i hope damage to the spline or not too much because the cone shaft with spline or lever arm are very expensive , like 200$ each

[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

..... i am missing a washer in between the cone housing and the arm. I will get this missing part installed and will see if that fix it, but my guess is that it will.............

I'm not so sure. Looks to me like you've been running it with that "wobble" there for some time. In which case I think it is likely that the male spline is worn thinner and the female has been expanded.

If you do decide to apply Loctite (to take up the gaps in the "fit") make sure the items are totally clean first.

..... the cone shaft with spline or lever arm are very expensive , like 200$ each

From MUD I notice that people often replace that whole "idler" from an alternative supplier to Toyota. (You could do a search to find the source but I think it could be MAF.)

[eleblanc]

I finally got everything off the truck. The spline on the cone seem to have a good wear. My guess is the cone ajustement was too tight and cause this.

I wasn't able to remove the sloted bolt in the back of the joint between the drag link and the pitman arm shown in the first video posted, so i pulled the pitman arm of the steering box. Even with drag link socket and a 1/2" impact it didn't move at all. Looks rusted and jammed pretty bad, tomorrow i'll heat this thing up. Is that sleeve have inned thread and the slot piece screw in it?

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by lostmarbles

From MUD I notice that people often replace that whole "idler" from an alternative supplier to Toyota. (You could do a search to find the source but I think it could be MAF.)

Been told that toyota has done difference size, and what MAF offer may not fit my cone housing, is this true?

[pbgbottle]

parts catalogue shows the same # for the rebuild kit from 69 to 84 FJ40,BJ40,BJ42
here is a pic of the threaded end and guts

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by pbgbottle

parts catalogue shows the same # for the rebuild kit from 69 to 84 FJ40,BJ40,BJ42
here is a pic of the threaded end and guts

Thanks.

[F-junker]

Where the splines on the idler arm bad? That thing sure looked shot. I bought a new center joint from MAF for 99 bucks, I quite sure one size fits a number of years 70-80's I think. I might be just as concerned about the condition of the spline on the arm though. good luck, these steering issues are a royal pita I've been through most al of them.

[eleblanc]

i got everything back installed,

The idler arm splined hole seem to have become taper, when i try to get it in the otherway around it won't go loose like the correct way, but very tight. I ordered one from 4wheelauto in Alberta.

[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by eleblanc

i got everything back installed,

The idler arm splined hole seem to have become taper, when i try to get it in the otherway around it won't go loose like the correct way, but very tight. I ordered one from 4wheelauto in Alberta.

Good idea to order a new arm.

I might still be tempted to use a loctite product on assembly though. (To take up wear that has occurred on the male spline.)

[eleblanc]

Originally Posted by lostmarbles

I might still be tempted to use a loctite product on assembly though. (To take up wear that has occurred on the male spline.)

I did, it probably wasn't the right product but it didn't hold.

[eleblanc]

Ok this problem is hunting me again. Last year i replaced the arm with a better "used" one.

Isn't the spline suppose to be taper?

EDIT: If the spline are not taper how is that thing not suppose to become loose on the spline and behave like show on my video?

[eleblanc]

Also is the kit from Man-a-fre the same has the one from 4wheelauto?

4wheelauto:

[eleblanc]

For the record, i ordered a new cone from 4wheelauto. Seems like no one was able to tell me but i will confirm it here, the spline on the cone are tapered, but very slighly. So slighly that once the tapered worn out the poor arm will become loose and you have no way of tighting it again, and you end up with a arm loose like mine was.

With the new cone shaft installed, all is perfect now!