[kb3gun]

Thanks for the updates Coolerman. I took your advice and started my frameoff repair a few weeks ago on my first FJ (just took delivery of it on Jan 8th). I refer to your site often. This noob appreciates your attention to detail. Keep up the great work!

[Coolerman]

Originally Posted by kb3gun

Thanks for the updates Coolerman. I took your advice and started my frameoff repair a few weeks ago on my first FJ (just took delivery of it on Jan 8th). I refer to your site often. This noob appreciates your attention to detail. Keep up the great work!

Great! You made a wise decision early on to do the frame off. Don't forget to take lots of reference pics as you disassemble. I keep an old laptop in the garage with all my pics on it just so I can refer to them when putting stuff back together. Let me know if you need any advice. It may not be 100% accurate but it's free!

[kb3gun]

I'm definitely taking plenty of photos and grouping them according to the job. I'm also bagging the hardware for each separate component. Using lots of bags but I'm sure it'll help in the long run. If my build turns out even half as good as yours, I'll be happy. Thanks again!

[Rick '79 FJ40]

Originally Posted by Coolerman

Thanks, but ya see, that is the best kept secret of all... ( It's actually a 71 F engine )

I moved the F alternator to the passenger side using a 2F bracket so I could mount the mini-truck power steering pump using the F alternator bracket, had to use a 2F water pump and fan to go with the FJ60 3 groove pulley so all the belts would line up and used the 2F valve cover to eliminate valve cover leaks and add some further bling. It will use the original F air cleaner. Dizzy is a 1987 FJ60 unit recurved by Jim C. for the F engine along with the igniter/coil. Side cover is from the same FJ60.

Headers are Downey, carb is a 71 rebuilt by Jim C and intake is a 71 also.

So I guess I have a F1.3?

It's "Frankencruiser"!!!

[Wildman]

WOW that looks awsome! Do you have any more pics of the engine? I was wondering about doing the same swaps, 2F valve cover, mini truck pump, and alt swap!
thanks for the pic info!

[Coolerman]

Plenty of pics! Exactly what section of the Engine do you want to see?

[Coolerman]

OK, once again time for an update.

I spent last weekend putting the motor back in the frame. All I can say was it was a hell of a lot easier putting it back, compared to taking it out!

I started by transferring the engine from the stand to the hoist. Learning from my rigging mistakes in the past I made up a new sling using two shackles. Having the two engine lift hooks sure makes a difference! The shackles fit on them perfectly.

After the engine was on the hoist I was able to access the rear main seal and pilot bearing for replacement.

I scrounged around and found a large carriage bolt, a very large washer with a deep dimple in the middle, and a couple of nuts and built this pilot bearing removal tool based on a thread here on MUD.

It worked great! Sorry, no pic of it in action, but it's pretty self explanatory. Insert the bolt head through the center of the bearing so it drops down and catches the inside edge of the bearing then tighten the nut pulling the large washer against the crank. The bearing is pulled into the dimple in the washer. A large socket or a piece of pipe would also work.

[Coolerman]

Next I removed the main rear seal. I should have done this at the time I had the oil pan off, but had a brain fart!

I cleaned up the seal and pilot bearing area with a Dremel tool equipped with a wire brush, then wiped everything down. Next I coated the inner lip of the seal with grease and the outer shell with a thin coat of high temp RTV and carefully drove it home. It was quite easy to seat. I used a machinist plastic faced hammer and just worked my way around never letting one side get too far in.

The new pilot bearing was given a coat of anti-seize on the outer shell then driven in with a socket. Finally I used a 10mm x 1.25 tap and chased the tapped holes in the crank to remove any sealant left there.

Next up was installing the 4 sp bell housing and rear motor mounts. I had previously chased all the holes in the bell housing and block to clean out any powder coating or paint.

[Coolerman]

I gathered all the motor mounts and bolts, set them where I could reach them and started sliding the motor into the frame.

Joy! Oh joy!

No problems! Nothing hit, fell, tore or caused me ANY grief!

Once the motor was mostly aligned I lowered it until the drivers side rear mount was touching and ran the bolt through the pucks and mount. I moved to the passenger side rear and wiggled that bolt through.

The front mounts I left completely loose so they could be easily moved around. They dropped right in place! Once all the bolts were in place I snugged them down. Finally! A major part of this rebuild is done!

Next up will be mounting the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch release arm and slave cylinder. Then the tranny and finally the T-case. Stay tuned!

[bsmith123]

where'd you get the hoist stand combo?

[Coolerman]

Originally Posted by bsmith123

where'd you get the hoist stand combo?

Both are Harbor Freight specials. The stand is a 1000 lb stand and the hoist is a 2 ton hoist. Got both on sale last year for $199.00 total.

The hoist handles the engine easily, even when extended to the 1/2 ton position. This setting is necassary even with the front bumper removed!

[IDave]

Did you have any trouble hooking the bellhousing under the lip of the dash? I found I've had to do a little manipulation to slip it under there because of the ps rear motor mount leg catching on the steel bracket thingie round the mount on the frame.

[CruisinMT]

damn that engine looks sick...It so clean and purdy. what is the red deal called in the 2nd picture?

[Coolerman]

Originally Posted by IDave

Did you have any trouble hooking the bellhousing under the lip of the dash? I found I've had to do a little manipulation to slip it under there because of the ps rear motor mount leg catching on the steel bracket thingie round the mount on the frame.

Not really, the body is hanging from the celing! I rolled the frame out from under the body so it was a straight shot in. Cheating I know...

[Coolerman]

Originally Posted by CruisinMT

damn that engine looks sick...It so clean and purdy. what is the red deal called in the 2nd picture?

Oil Pressure Regulator

[IDave]

Originally Posted by Coolerman

Not really, the body is hanging from the celing! I rolled the frame out from under the body so it was a straight shot in. Cheating I know...

D'oh! Yeah. Damn Cheater.

[Coolerman]

I've been so used to having total access to everything, it will be a pain to work on when it's all back together!

[Coolerman]

OK, with all the pressure on me to get this out of the garage, I was forced to work on it some more.

Got the flywheel/clutch installed (sse here for the clutch disk backwards screw-up...

I made a clutch alignment tool from my old 3 speed tranny input shaft. Works perfectly and doubles as a paper weight.

I got the CCOT slave mounted and everything lines up correctly.

Then I started installing the 4 speed tranny...

I cut the heads off of two 12mm x 1.25 x 4" bolts to make some guide studs, greased up the T/O hub and slid the tranny into place. Piece of cake! Only had to wiggle the ouput shaft maybe 1/4 turn.

[Coolerman]

and that's when I spotted what everyone said would be the issue: The @#$@#@# crossmember!

Just for reference: I'm doing the 4 sp trans to 3 sp t-case swap... The 4 sp trans is of course longer but some have claimed to get it in without moving the crossmember. I knew this was an issue, but wanted to mount the trans anyway to see for myself how much room there actually is.

There is aboput 2.3" between the end of the output shaft anf the crossmember. The T-case is of course 5.1" wide. I read I could remove the rear engine mounts and use a jack to lower the engine/tranny enough to slide the T-case on but have not tried it yet. This still means the e-brake could not be serviced without dropping the engine down again.

I may have to just cut the crossmember and move it back... Grumble grumble...

[phishtaco]

Thats a good looking bellhousing.

[Coolerman]

Baked@ 600 degrees to remove grease, sand blasted to get the gunk off, powder coated gloss black. I did the 3 sp bell housing also at the same time.

Pics show differences between the F and 2F housings.

[kvanoort]

I've really enjoyed following your build and have also referenced your Website for my own project. Looks great and thanks for sharing your experience!

[Wildman]

Originally Posted by Coolerman

and that's when I spotted what everyone said would be the issue: The @#$@#@# crossmember!

I am in the exact same spot, but my Xmember seams to have been modified, is yours directly 90deg straight up from the frame? Or is it rolled back a bit? Its hard to tell from the picture.

[FJ40Jim]

Originally Posted by Coolerman

and that's when I spotted what everyone said would be the issue: The @#$@#@# crossmember!

Just for reference: I'm doing the 4 sp trans to 3 sp t-case swap... The 4 sp trans is of course longer but some have claimed to get it in without moving the crossmember. I knew this was an issue, but wanted to mount the trans anyway to see for myself how much room there actually is.

There is aboput 2.3" between the end of the output shaft anf the crossmember. The T-case is of course 5.1" wide. I read I could remove the rear engine mounts and use a jack to lower the engine/tranny enough to slide the T-case on but have not tried it yet. This still means the e-brake could not be serviced without dropping the engine down again.

I may have to just cut the crossmember and move it back... Grumble grumble...

Mark, just cherry-pick the engine & trans straight up one foot, and install the t-case, then set it back down.

I hate to say shoulda, but you shoulda bolted the whole engine/tranny/case together and then set it in the chassis.

But you're making nice progress!

[Coolerman]

Originally Posted by Wildman

I am in the exact same spot, but my Xmember seams to have been modified, is yours directly 90deg straight up from the frame? Or is it rolled back a bit? Its hard to tell from the picture.

Mine is actually tilted TOWARD the engine! I wondered if, as it came down the assembly line, that the assembler put some straight up, some tilted back, and some tilted forward?

[Coolerman]

Originally Posted by FJ40Jim

Mark, just cherry-pick the engine & trans straight up one foot, and install the t-case, then set it back down.

I hate to say shoulda, but you shoulda bolted the whole engine/tranny/case together and then set it in the chassis.

But you're making nice progress!

Thanks Jim, I read that many do assemble the whole thing on the floor then lift it into place. I did pull it all in one piece.

I just wanted a stable platform to install the clutch, tranny, and t-case I'm doing this completely by myself so stability is a huge factor.

In your experience, can the E-Brake be serviced without pulling the whole engine/tranny/t-case again? If it can I may just go ahead and lift it again to put the case on instead of moving the cross member. The hoist is still in position!

[watrob]

Hi Coolerman,

Your making great progress, how much room do you have from the firewall to the back of the rocker cover. Its hard to tell from the photos but I was wondering because your so close to the crossmember when the transfer case goes on.

Will you have problems mounting the tub back on do you think?

[Coolerman]

The engine is in the stock location so there will be no firewall issues. In my pics the tub is actually hanging from the ceiling of my garage on cables. I can roll the frame in and out from under it to work on it.

I'm installing a 4 speed tranny in place of the stock 3 speed. It's longer than the 3 speed, so the t-case is too close to the cross member to install it without dropping the engine or raising the engine.

[FJ40Jim]

Thanks Jim, I read that many do assemble the whole thing on the floor then lift it into place. I did pull it all in one piece.
I just wanted a stable platform to install the clutch, tranny, and t-case I'm doing this completely by myself so stability is a huge factor.

The BH and clutch must be installed w/ engine hanging from the crane. Then the engine can be set gently on a piece of plywood, then tranny & t-case are scooted up against BH and carefully maneuvered into place. The use of an engine tilter and some miscellaneous wood blocks helps a lot.

In your experience, can the E-Brake be serviced without pulling the whole engine/tranny/t-case again? If it can I may just go ahead and lift it again to put the case on instead of moving the cross member. The hoist is still in position!

No, getting the e-brake off will be impossible w/ out either: lowering the rear of the engine or cutting out the x-member.

So install a new pair of shoes and replace the cable if at all questionable, then install the whole unit into the truck. Because you've antiseezed the P-brk works and replaced wear parts, you will not need to get in there for another 10-20 years.

[scotscan]

this has to be the best build thread i've read.
for anyone who has'nt seen his home page it's the best congrats coolerman i'm looking forward to more on you're web page.