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08-19-07, 09:53 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Eat!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,096
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Heater Restoration for Dummies
Well, I was on Mud earlier this week have gotten my heater in my '71 40 torn apart looking for instructions on how to assemble Shanes kit. As posted elsewhere ( http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/121193-heater-pics-needed.html ) it was mentioned that Shane had some pics on assembly and I linked those to that thread as it took me a while to find them.
The first step was to remove and tear down the old heater. Simple enough to remove, just four bolts and the thing came right out.
I took the heater box completely apart and took the heater core to my neighborhood radiator shop where, for $15, it was boiled out and pressure tested and found to be in perfect shape.
I media blasted all the parts in my cabinet using 80 grit aluminum oxide and the came clean fast. I then boxed the heater up and brought it, (along with a second heater and some other parts) to sk8salamon in Chattanooga who works at a louver design plant where they also do some powder coating. He got all the stuff powder coated for me for a song and trade for some blasting here is how that came out:
Here is one of the heaters:
Next was to start assembly using the kit. I laid all the parts out on my over crouded work bench and was happy to find that all the screws were eactly as advertised:
__________________
Hugh Heifer
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08-19-07, 09:59 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Eat!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,096
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Here is another pic of the box itself. I reccomend puting down a clean soft clothe on you work surface when working with your new powder coated parts  (actually the damage was minimal)
Now since the OEM padding was still very soft and pliable, I decided to keep it in the box and I placed it back on the ends of the heater core.
I noticed when I took the heater apart that the soft foam had som charcoal foam pading on is still so I figured that this set up would work fine.
Next I wrapped the core with the foam supplied in the kit and cut it to length and sliced some holes in it for the inlet and outlet tubes:
Notice the foam was not on the core yet. It did go on, however.
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Hugh Heifer
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08-19-07, 10:02 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Eat!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,096
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Next I slid the heater core with the foam on it in place. It was a tight fit
Next I glued the dor pad to the door using 3M 77 spray adhesive.
And I stuck the small pads on the other side of the door (these prevent rattling when the door is open) and screwed the door to the frame.
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Hugh Heifer
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08-19-07, 10:06 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Eat!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,096
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Next I put the door and frame inside the box and screwed them in place (always using Shane's new screws).
Next I used the sticky foam strip provided and placed that at the top of the side of the heater box as shown. It was really sticky so get it right the first time!
And then finally I assembled the side to the box again using the new hardware provided. It took som coaxing to assure the foam at the top of the side went on the out side of the box and then it all got cranked down to make it a solid square box again. It was tough probably due to the addition of the OEM foam ends but it finally went together.
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Hugh Heifer
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08-19-07, 10:13 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Eat!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,096
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I put the control knob on and it was ready for install into the truck:
Also in the kit is a longer peice of foam for the housing intake to duct but I do not plan on using it becasue my boot was very tight when I took it apart. Also there was another large flat piece of charcoal foam. I believe this was for a different year heater with a smaller control door so it was not used either.
All in all I am happy with the kit. I did actually find a source for 1/4 charcoal foam by the sheet for about $9.99 for a big sheet and $4 shipping. And I went to the local Ace and found most of the screws that came in the kit. I dug through the parts bin and found what else I needed to complete the second heater.
Shanes kit is about $30 so I think with driving around, searching the parts bin, searching through Ace for the right screws for about an hour and searching the internet and buyinh what I think to be the right foam, that $30 is well spent and reasonible. In parts I think I spent $20. Gas $5 and time, well who knows. Save your self the time and buy Shanes kit. It is cheaper then other vendors and has all the same stuff.
Hope someone finds this useful.
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Hugh Heifer
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08-19-07, 10:18 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 722
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Very Nice - THanks for the writeup.
I would do it except I live here in Arizona....
Rocky
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74 FJ-40 - A work in progress....
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08-19-07, 10:54 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,022
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great writeup, THIS SHOULD GO IN FAQ! will be using this when I restore my 55 heater with shane's kit.
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08-19-07, 11:14 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Forest Falls, CA.
Posts: 561
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Counterproductive writeup. I'm just sending mine to you so it'll be done right. Uh, what's your address?
Vic
Redlands, CA.
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08-19-07, 02:55 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 163
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Thanks for the info! I have wanted to do this for a while now. Definately should be in FAQ.
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08-19-07, 03:37 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: HUH ? Oh..... CT
Posts: 858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJEC69
Thanks for the info! I have wanted to do this for a while now. Definately should be in FAQ. 
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X2!
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78 FJ 40 Russstard..and a sistership for parts
7.5 Fishmerwester plow
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08-19-07, 08:21 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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www.got40.com
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 97045
Posts: 3,912
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[quote=Hugh Heifer;2459885]Next I slid the heater core with the foam on it in place. It was a tight fit
Attachment 167101
Cut the holes for the lines and spray 3M contact on bith the foam strip and the 4 sides of the core. Once tacky assembly takes place. Trim the edges of the fin sides flush and then slide into the box. Don't force it as it will slowly glide in.
Also if you can re tap each threaded hole and DONT over tighten any screw. Only colapse the lock washer and your done.
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08-19-07, 08:27 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Eat!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,096
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Thanks Shane! I was hoping you would add $.02!
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Hugh Heifer
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08-19-07, 08:37 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: granite falls WA.
Posts: 1,119
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great write up! i should have done one last year when i bought one of shanes kits (call me lazy i guess) it made a huge differance in the way my heater worked. now i can get the air flow were i need it. on rainy days my windows dont fog up any more so i no longer need a towel to wipe them with while i drive. definitly worth doing, i would recomend it !
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76 FJ40 tuned port injected 350 sbc, toy 4sp/tcase, tilt steering columm, full family cage, longs, 35's, ps, 4/w disc, frenched in ant. etc.
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08-20-07, 01:42 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Burque
Posts: 2,048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AATLAS1X
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thanks for the links...
Hijack:
whenever I move the lever to the def position it knocks of the hose that feeds the defrost vents, will adjusting the linkage solve that?
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08-20-07, 08:18 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunny, Southern Alberta
Posts: 28
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Yes, thanks for the pictures, and links! Amazing how much simpler things look with good photos. I think I would like to give a heater rebuild a try.
Any tips for pulling the heater assembly out, and capping the lines so that it's still driveable, and not filling the cab with coolant in the process.?
Thanks,
Guy
Last edited by GussesCruzer; 08-20-07 at 12:06 PM.
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08-20-07, 01:32 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Eat!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GussesCruzer
Yes, thanks for the pictures, and links! Amazing how much simpler things look with good photos. I think I would like to give a heater rebuild a try.
Any tips for pulling the heater assembly out, and capping the lines so that it's still driveable, and not filling the cab with coolant in the process.?
Thanks,
Guy
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I would say to removed the heater hoses in the engine compartment and then reconnect them with a jumper so the water just circulates within the engine compartment. Then when you take the heater out it will dump its contents in the engine compartment and not on you very clean and soft carpeting.
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Hugh Heifer
Last edited by Hugh Heifer; 10-08-07 at 09:11 AM.
Reason: Spelling sucks
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08-20-07, 02:41 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Morgan Hill, CA
Posts: 3,358
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Great timing, thanks.
I was fooling with my heater for no good reason and it's ready for some help. I'd better get to it now before I need it later; like for night-wheeling at Surf & Turf...
Shane, do you have powder codes for the gray color on a '78 heater? Or maybe you already have one restored and you could take mine as a (nice) core?
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08-23-07, 02:47 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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www.got40.com
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 97045
Posts: 3,912
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For those asking about heater kits, they are on ebay.
Shane
Click link in sig line.
Last edited by AATLAS1X; 09-20-07 at 02:02 AM.
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08-23-07, 01:02 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 916
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Shane also does a great job restoring these also. I bought one and am extremely happy with it, as I have been with everything I have gotten from Shane.
__________________
'79 FJ40 33" MTRs, 2" OME;' 96 FZJ80 Retro 100% OEM Lockers, CDL, OEM Hand Trottle, OEM Grab Bar, JDM Cooling Fan, OME 851/860, OEM SubTank in process
"The monstrous evils of the twentieth century have shown us that the greediest money grubbers are gentle doves compared with money-hating wolves like Lenin, Stalin and Hitler, who in less than three decades killed or maimed nearly a hundred million men, women, and children and brought untold suffering to a large portion of mankind.” Eric Hoffer
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08-24-07, 08:10 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Eat!
Join Date: May 2006
Location: In the basement
Posts: 2,096
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As I mentioned earlier, I made an attempt at duplicating Shane's kit. The hardest part (other then finding the exact screws from my local Ace) was the charcoal foam. I found it at www.foambymail.com which is the Foam Factory Inc. I got a sheet of 72"x40 inches of 1/4 inch charcoal foam for $4.99 plus a huge $10 shipping. (But the roll is huge too). I could do 15 heaters with this roll and it was the smallest available.
Moral: Unless you have fifteen friends who are going to need to rebuild their heaters, still better to buy from Shane!
__________________
Hugh Heifer
Last edited by Hugh Heifer; 03-11-09 at 06:55 PM.
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09-20-07, 02:09 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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www.got40.com
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 97045
Posts: 3,912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Heifer
As I mentioned earlier, I made an attempt at duplicating Shane's kit. The hardest part (other then finding the exact screws from my local Ace) was the charcoal foam. I found it at www.foambymail.com which is the Foam Factory Inc. I got a sheet of 72"x40 inches of 1/4 inch charcoal foam for $4.99 plus a huge $10 shipping. (But the roll is huge too). I could do 15 heaters with this roll and it was the smallest available.
Moral: Unless you have fifteen friends who are going to need to rebuild their heaters, still better to by from Shane!
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Duplicating the 67-73 heater kit in not that hard, I just go a few steps further only because of O.C.D. A.D.D. ANALISM. I have all the screws, washers and lock washers plated in the factory yellow chromate. My girl has a customer that is a foam mill, so I sent them the foam and them "Milled" me my custom foam for these. Do you know how long it takes to cut 10 sheets od 48"x108" and hom many razor knife blades you go through? Do you know that cats love to lay on foam and piss you off?
I also had templates made for the foam patterns.
Now the later 74-84 kits were a night mare. I has to have all the nylon bushing and washers made and there is 7 sizes per kit.
I am almost out of kits, I have to cut another 10 sheets of foam soon............
Last edited by AATLAS1X; 10-08-07 at 12:09 AM.
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09-20-07, 06:39 AM
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#23 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,752
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Wow! That's a great write up on info I wasn't aware existed...
__________________
"The devil made me do it the first time. The second time I done it on my own."
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10-08-07, 12:12 AM
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#24 (permalink)
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www.got40.com
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 97045
Posts: 3,912
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For those that want the 74-84 heater resto hits. Click my sig link and offer $35.00 and one is yours.
THe 67-73 versions are out of stock...........
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10-08-07, 10:08 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Redding CA
Posts: 84
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Are you planning on making more 67-73 kits?
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10-08-07, 10:42 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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www.got40.com
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 97045
Posts: 3,912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theoii
Are you planning on making more 67-73 kits?
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Yes I am, I have an order to fill for SOR. I am a week or so out on them.
Shane
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10-31-07, 06:49 AM
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#27 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: columbia, sc
Posts: 58
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AATLAS1Z
I hit your link to the ebay store and dont see any heater kits for the 74 - 84. I need to order one.
Mike
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10-31-07, 12:35 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,616
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Why does my 67 heater look diffeent than the heaters pictured above?
__________________
67' FJ40 3- On the Tree
Rebuilt F 135, Bored 50 Over
1.5" Extended Shackles and 33 x 9.5's
"REZ RUNNER"
My ROTW http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...cruisinmt.html
08/89 FJ62 "Bruiser" Wife's DD
31 x 10.50 on Stock Steelies
327K on the body
76k on Rebuilt 3Fe and Tranny
"I'm not a mechanic, I just play one in my garage."
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10-31-07, 12:39 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 3,851
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Does your heater look like this?
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10-31-07, 12:46 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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www.got40.com
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: 97045
Posts: 3,912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolerman
Does your heater look like this?
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 What no heater position decal....
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