Heater Restoration for Dummies (1 Viewer)

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Hugh Heifer

Less than 90 days!
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Well, I was on Mud earlier this week have gotten my heater in my '71 40 torn apart looking for instructions on how to assemble Shanes kit. As posted elsewhere ( https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=121193 ) it was mentioned that Shane had some pics on assembly and I linked those to that thread as it took me a while to find them.

The first step was to remove and tear down the old heater. Simple enough to remove, just four bolts and the thing came right out.

I took the heater box completely apart and took the heater core to my neighborhood radiator shop where, for $15, it was boiled out and pressure tested and found to be in perfect shape.

I media blasted all the parts in my cabinet using 80 grit aluminum oxide and the came clean fast. I then boxed the heater up and brought it, (along with a second heater and some other parts) to sk8salamon in Chattanooga who works at a louver design plant where they also do some powder coating. He got all the stuff powder coated for me for a song and trade for some blasting here is how that came out:

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Here is one of the heaters:

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Next was to start assembly using the kit. I laid all the parts out on my over crouded work bench and was happy to find that all the screws were eactly as advertised:

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Powder 001.jpg
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Here is another pic of the box itself. I reccomend puting down a clean soft clothe on you work surface when working with your new powder coated parts :crybaby: (actually the damage was minimal)

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Now since the OEM padding was still very soft and pliable, I decided to keep it in the box and I placed it back on the ends of the heater core.

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I noticed when I took the heater apart that the soft foam had som charcoal foam pading on is still so I figured that this set up would work fine.

Next I wrapped the core with the foam supplied in the kit and cut it to length and sliced some holes in it for the inlet and outlet tubes:

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Notice the foam was not on the core yet. It did go on, however.
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Next I slid the heater core with the foam on it in place. It was a tight fit;p

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Next I glued the dor pad to the door using 3M 77 spray adhesive.

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And I stuck the small pads on the other side of the door (these prevent rattling when the door is open) and screwed the door to the frame.

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Next I put the door and frame inside the box and screwed them in place (always using Shane's new screws).

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Next I used the sticky foam strip provided and placed that at the top of the side of the heater box as shown. It was really sticky so get it right the first time!

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And then finally I assembled the side to the box again using the new hardware provided. It took som coaxing to assure the foam at the top of the side went on the out side of the box and then it all got cranked down to make it a solid square box again. It was tough probably due to the addition of the OEM foam ends but it finally went together.

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I put the control knob on and it was ready for install into the truck:

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Also in the kit is a longer peice of foam for the housing intake to duct but I do not plan on using it becasue my boot was very tight when I took it apart. Also there was another large flat piece of charcoal foam. I believe this was for a different year heater with a smaller control door so it was not used either.

All in all I am happy with the kit. I did actually find a source for 1/4 charcoal foam by the sheet for about $9.99 for a big sheet and $4 shipping. And I went to the local Ace and found most of the screws that came in the kit. I dug through the parts bin and found what else I needed to complete the second heater.

Shanes kit is about $30 so I think with driving around, searching the parts bin, searching through Ace for the right screws for about an hour and searching the internet and buyinh what I think to be the right foam, that $30 is well spent and reasonible. In parts I think I spent $20. Gas $5 and time, well who knows. Save your self the time and buy Shanes kit. It is cheaper then other vendors and has all the same stuff.

Hope someone finds this useful.

:cheers:
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Counterproductive writeup. I'm just sending mine to you so it'll be done right. Uh, what's your address?
Vic
Redlands, CA.
 
Thanks for the info! I have wanted to do this for a while now. Definately should be in FAQ. :cheers:
 
Next I slid the heater core with the foam on it in place. It was a tight fit;p

View attachment 167101

Cut the holes for the lines and spray 3M contact on bith the foam strip and the 4 sides of the core. Once tacky assembly takes place. Trim the edges of the fin sides flush and then slide into the box. Don't force it as it will slowly glide in.

Also if you can re tap each threaded hole and DONT over tighten any screw. Only colapse the lock washer and your done.
 
great write up! i should have done one last year when i bought one of shanes kits (call me lazy i guess) it made a huge differance in the way my heater worked. now i can get the air flow were i need it. on rainy days my windows dont fog up any more so i no longer need a towel to wipe them with while i drive. definitly worth doing, i would recomend it !
 
Here is the core covered and the fin side trimmed.
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Side shot of LHD version as I think the ones with center knob is for various regions.
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I put a drop of grease on the rod side and do not over tighten screw.
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63-67 heater link http://www.fototime.com/users/aatlas1x@aol.com/1963-67 FJ40 Restored Heater
67-73 heater link http://www.fototime.com/users/aatlas1x@aol.com/1968-9/73 Restored FJ40 Heaters
74-84 heater link http://www.fototime.com/users/aatlas1x@aol.com/1974-84 Front Heater Restored
74-84 RHD heater link http://www.fototime.com/users/aatlas1x@aol.com/RHD Restored Heater 74-84
 
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thanks for the links...

Hijack:
whenever I move the lever to the def position it knocks of the hose that feeds the defrost vents, will adjusting the linkage solve that?
 
Yes, thanks for the pictures, and links! Amazing how much simpler things look with good photos. I think I would like to give a heater rebuild a try.

Any tips for pulling the heater assembly out, and capping the lines so that it's still driveable, and not filling the cab with coolant in the process.?

Thanks,
Guy
 
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Yes, thanks for the pictures, and links! Amazing how much simpler things look with good photos. I think I would like to give a heater rebuild a try.

Any tips for pulling the heater assembly out, and capping the lines so that it's still driveable, and not filling the cab with coolant in the process.?

Thanks,
Guy
I would say to removed the heater hoses in the engine compartment and then reconnect them with a jumper so the water just circulates within the engine compartment. Then when you take the heater out it will dump its contents in the engine compartment and not on you very clean and soft carpeting.
 
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Great timing, thanks.

I was fooling with my heater for no good reason and it's ready for some help. I'd better get to it now before I need it later; like for night-wheeling at Surf & Turf...

Shane, do you have powder codes for the gray color on a '78 heater? Or maybe you already have one restored and you could take mine as a (nice) core?
 
For those asking about heater kits, they are on ebay.

Shane

Click link in sig line.
 
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Shane also does a great job restoring these also. I bought one and am extremely happy with it, as I have been with everything I have gotten from Shane.
 

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