[fj40_73]

Got 7 of the eight windshield bolts to come out by heating them up and using an impact screw driver. The last one had to be drilled out and tapped after it's head broke off.



Both fenders had rust holes under the bubbles, where the turn light support mounts.


This fender had to be hammered out because of the accident that netted me my air lockers. Link to accident pictures.



After rust holes were replaced with metal, and every thing wired wheeled down. That windshield frame has lots of edges and I am sure my neighbors are stoked I'm done with this part.

Thanks to DomSmith for stopping by and giving me some good words, and best of all a 6 pack.

[MadTripper]

Great job! If I lived closer, I'd drop a case of beer off just for the entertainment value.

[fj40_73]

Back yard.




NV4500, ORION HD, mmmmmmm.



me mad looking at the fresh Orion.



just the bottom of the transfer case is poking below the frame line. Drive train is tucked up nicely.

[fj40_73]

One Windshield hinge pin was broken at two spots, allowing the hinge to pivot, the other one would pivot. The one with the broken pin was easy enough to separate into the two main hinge parts, but the pins left in the hinge would not press out, even with prolong exposure to heat. I ended up drilling them out. The centers pressed out with heat, after the bushings melted, but still was not fun. The Hinge that had the solid pin would not press out at, all, had to drill at both ends to get it apart

After hours of work, this is a very satisfying photo.


The guy who sometimes sells brass bushings on Ebay is sending me enough bushing to do the doors & the windshield hinges.


On to the fun stuff. The shifters for the orion hd, are blocks with holes, in them, and shifting shafts. I have seen photos where some put a tack weld on to hold it in place. I decided to drill a hole, and weld on a nut, then use a bold and extra set nut, to secure mine. I had at first treaded the drilled hole, but did not feel there was enough thread.


Doing this allowed me to adjust the shifters as I went to get the best line up with the existing hole on the trans hump.

I decided to paint the shifter shafts the same color as the cage.



I also finished reconnecting all the pedals.

[oflynno]

thats real nice work you're doing there
thats probably why i like these jeeps and want one.they are all meatl and none of the plastic shyte.

i will be welded to this thread.well done

[alwayscme]

Just amazing! You're like one of those build shows that make people feel like they can build anything. Then reality sets in after you have taken everything apart, then ya sell it because you can't put it back together. HA HA! Outstanding work...

[fj40_73]

Originally Posted by alwayscme

Just amazing! You're like one of those build shows that make people feel like they can build anything. Then reality sets in after you have taken everything apart, then ya sell it because you can't put it back together. HA HA! Outstanding work...

It comes down to knowing yourself and your staying power. This is not my first large project. It is my first large fj40 build. I have always been one to finish what I start, even if there are bumps in the road. If you are accustom to not finishing projects, make sure you keep your day job where you have a boss that can be your mom.

Thanks for the support, and I hope to document this as well as I can so maybe those who are thinking of starting a large project like this, see allllll the pain involved before they start, and more importantly, I hope to help others when they hit some of the same pitfalls I have.

[1973Guppie]

lookin good, what do you plan to do for an ebrake, since the HD version doesn't have a rear drum?

Noah

[Senor Aguas]

How did you get the drivetrain tucked up that high? I'm jealous. No body lift, right? Any floor board mods? I have a similar drivetrain and it hangs down about 4-5 inches. Does the orion hd tuck up a lot higher than the stocker?

[fj40_73]

Noah - Line Lock for now, and maybe a wheel chock. Along with new exhaust, sliders, and stinger, those are all things to contemplate after I have it up and running.

Senor Aguas - My engine sits as far forward as I could get it, I was able to keep the rear crossmember. The Orion is about the same specs as the original TC. The rear AA support bracket is very very close to the bottom of the tub, I did have to notch out the little lip, that bends down around the trans hump opening, so it would not touch.(it was not touching after I put in the new body mounts, but cut it it just incase). I have had someone say it's too close because it would add noise.
I never noticed it over the old screaming TC, it was always loud. I also took about 3 days of realigning the Drive line, before I welded in the mounts.

[jtoro]

Nice Job, how do you manage to get all this done in your driveway? Must take a lot of patience..... From your neighbors...

[fj40_73]

Originally Posted by jtoro

Nice Job, how do you manage to get all this done in your driveway? Must take a lot of patience..... From your neighbors...

NO HOA . Old neighborhood. And I am not doing it every day. The worse of it was when doing the cage. The guy right next door, on a hot weekend day(when everyone has their windows open) did make a request that I kick back for the afternoon. We are on good terms so it was not a big deal and I understood. I mostly work on it during the week, so not too many around during the day.

[VehiculousFJ]

Excellent build man, thanks for the read!

[fj40_73]

Spent most of the day putting together the head lamps. I had a spare set of head lamps. To reclame the adjuster bolts, I melted the threaded plastic inserts, then cleaned up the treads. Also the rubber groments were in good shape too.





I like how the early front bib's head lamps, rears are enclosed, unlike the one originals from my 73. The one on the right's, head lamp connectors were extreamlly weatherd from being exposed.

Here I am starting to get ready to start making my wiring harness. I have a fuse box out of a S-10, lots of connectors, shring tube, and mucho new wire.

[fj40_73]

Here is a basic digram I had to make to mate my 3 different Years lights & switches & s10 fuse box, and side marker lights that also work as turnsingles. The rest of the wires I can run from other made diagrams in the tech section, but I had to make one of my combination of lights and switches.


fj40_mongrol_diagram.pdf

To make the side markers work as turn singles, i am using a 3 to 2 relay.
Curt Manufacturing I-24 - - summitracing.com



The front bib lights were wired to use only the running lights, even though a two filament bulb can be used. So to have the bib lights be used as running lights and turn singles, I Cut the ground wire and ran it inside. With a little solder and a test it works fine. I will ground the light off its mount nut.

[fj40_73]

two more weeks until I go up to LA for SOR sale, and get windshield. Should be able to drive then.



When I put the front end together, I cut out Polyurethane strips from a sheet I bought from here: Polyurethane 95A Durometer Precision Sheeting - US Plastic Corporation
I got the $40.00 piece. Will be plenty to do all hinge to body areas.

I ran it where the bib meets the side apron, and fender. Also where the fender meets the tub. Also cut out a rect for the bib hinge mounts to the bib and frame.



And got some gauges.

[AndyM]

Everything looks amazing, nice work!
I had to stare at them for a long time but I finally decided that I really like the gauges. It'll be cool to see them installed.
Where are they from?

[fj40_73]

Originally Posted by AndyM

Everything looks amazing, nice work!
I had to stare at them for a long time but I finally decided that I really like the gauges. It'll be cool to see them installed.
Where are they from?

I could do without the "Power" text, but was the best set for my eyes that I could find, with an electric speedo. The speedo came with an adaptor, so if you don't have a built in sender unit, like I do on the orion HD, you can hook up your speed cable to it. To set it, you hit a button, drive a mile, then hit the set button again. Therefor if you change tire size, or gears, you can reset your speedo.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1∂=SWW%2D82246&N=700+115 &autoview=sku

[fj40_73]

Last week, I fired up the engine. It said, " coff, sputter, backfire".
I checked my plug wires, and I had two swapped. Fixed wire order, fired it up. Much better, but almost immedialy I noticed my harmonic balancer looked odd,and was rubbing the timing cover. Cut power, and took a closer look. It had started to come apart, and was sitting crooked. The motor is a crate 4 bolt main, with about 40k on it. The balancer was some old part from I cannot remember. So, ordered a new one, rented a balancer installer tool from Kargen, and replaced it. I had to take my radiator out again, but no big deal. I was mad at first, but am now happy it happen during test fire, and not later on test run. The engine purrs now, and wants to power to wheels.

[fj40_73]

Originally Posted by fj40_73

two more weeks until I go up to LA for SOR sale, and get windshield. Should be able to drive then.

Change of plans,
Local Glass shop is going to cut a piece out for me. I brought the frame down to their shop yesterday and they said they would cut one out and install it for $100.00, if I get the weatherstripping for it. Having the windshield frame off the vehicle makes it easy for them to work with.

So I called up cruiserDan and put the weatherstripping and key on order at a great price. Once I get that, I'll take the frame down and get the glasss cut. The whole thing is going to cost me less then if I would of driven up to LA and gotten just the glass at sor. That's not even adding in the cost of the weatherstripping & installation.

Also just placed on order a 4+ Swing Away Tire/Cooler. Been debating making one, but I have no time and I don't want to be driving around with out a spare.

[CruisinMT]

great build, it looks a lot different than when you started. Good Job.

[DomSmith]

Shane-

I may be able to get that 4+ Carrier down from Simi if you like. Let me know. I've heard it's a TON of $ to ship one.

[calixto]

Great thread, the rig looks awesome. I'm maybe a little too late on seeing it since it looks like you are getting close to being done. I have a 73 (Oct 72) also and am down in Leucadia. Let me know if you ever need a hand.

[nspctr1]

nicely done. Where are ya gonna stab your sending units on your gages or are they -all- electric?

[fj40_73]

Originally Posted by calixto

Great thread, the rig looks awesome. I'm maybe a little too late on seeing it since it looks like you are getting close to being done. I have a 73 (Oct 72) also and am down in Leucadia. Let me know if you ever need a hand.

Thanks for the offer. It has been really great to get the support and offers for help on my project from members of his board. I have it well under control so I will not requre the help. I think I will take up DomSmith's offer to help save me some shipping fees.

as far as guages go, uh, ya the group came with electrical sending units for all, no stabing required.

[fj40_73]

Some time ago I stripped out a volvo headed to the scrap yard. In my pack-ratting, I saved all the connectors I could cut out. I finally get to put them to use.

The front bib lights I altered to use both as running lights, and turn singles, I added back in a ground wire, and added this volvo connector.




my Fenders have a fair bit of bondo and paint on them, so I decided to add a ground wire to the fender lights.






Took me a full day to make this front wireing harness that is for all my running/turning/special-running_N_turn side lights/headlights. And just before I fell asleep, I realized I am going to have to pop the pins out of the left side connectors, so I can feed it through the top of the front bib.



Roll cage is working well to help me sting out my wires.



My engine / trans/ speedo sensor / water temp/ oil pressure wires will have their own seperate harness coming in at the driversided of the fire wall.




Front Light harness color code: 14GA Green(Running), 14GA Yellow(Left Turn), 14GA White(Special Left), 14GA Red(Right Turn), 14GA Blue(Special Right), 12GA Red(High Beam), 12GA Black(Low Beam)

[fj40_73]

Not exciting, but an almost sadistic pleasure comes over me as I proceed through these wires.


Wires wires wires, here's the route:

Drivers side fender with ARB & light connectors,



Here are my relays for: KC lights, Fog Lights, Engine Fan, and Horn, all with inline fues. The two washer looking thing in the photo, that are connected to the side Negitive batter post, are
two extra long bots threaded up threw the fender. All my front items run ground to these posts, and I have a ground running to my dash. My battery is grounded to the frame, my frame is ground to the driveline, off of one of the main bellhousing bolts.
Later on , I might build a box for this area.

Yeah, I went overkill with my grounding. All my lights are very bright.






Back corner, the plugs on the top right are for:
License plate light, fuel sending unit, kc type light.
The lights mount to the 4+ bumper on the way, so
all I have to do is wire from the lights to the connector
plugs once I have the bumper on.




Rear light wires & Front light wires merge in the
left hand area.

From left to right of the main wire wraps.
1. Engine and Sensors
2. All Legal Lights
3. Main Power In & Hood relay controls.




Pretty happy to be inside the cab now with my wires, I had the Hazard switch already wired up(which gives the power to the turnsingles) so those are done and now to the rest.




One last blurry photo, this is under the dash, on top of where the ebrake/dash support bar. Here again, I have two grounding "posts" for all my dash grounds.

[fj40_73]

Dash/lights/hazards stitched up. Just have the fuse box to wire up, then I will have life support(legal lights & sensors).





One of the hardest things I have had to do on this project is cut the hole for the volts gauge on the dash. The cutting was easy enough, the getting up the gut to cut was not, but I do not what any junky looking gauges and wires hanging from the bottom of the dash.



Two green LEDs are for turn indicators, and the center orange is for hi beam.

[fj40_73]

one more shot.

[fj40_73]

Picked up my 4+ bumper from Dom's house this AM. He offered to help my out with it on Monday, .... but looks like I was a bit excited to get it on there.





Now to attach my rear fender flars, put gas tank & seats back in, reattach drive axles, then wait for more paint to arrive to pain the hood.Brakes are back on line too.