Stopping Rust (1 Viewer)

[RyRy]

Can anyone give me any advice on how to stop rust from forming/spreading on my cruiser? I have tried to grind it back until the metal looks shiny/rust free, covered it with fish oil, put some putty on it, sanded it back and painted it, but eventually it comes back and i can see the filler cracking and rust spots again! I dont know how to weld and was hoping to just stop it spreading for now until i can afford to get it fixed properly.

I have seen a product called 'rust converter' , does this work?

Thanks again

Ryan

 

[nspctr1]

I personally haven't tried this product yet but my buddy did on his bronco and said it worked great. POR 15

 

[Bennett]

Rust is like cancer..
I uses this twice a year and it works great... I think it shouold be required to use this to be a cruiser owner and keep these machines on the road>

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.

 

[RyRy]

Im from Perth, Australia,

can i get this por15 here? Or something just as good?

Obviously this rust converter stuff doesnt work too well.

 

[Cruiserhaven]

There's a good chance the same thing will happen with the POR15 --- give it a year or two and you may see the rust bubbling through again.

I haven't found anything that works well for rust in the long-term.

That home-made wax brew sounds interesting for underbody and inside panels -- but I'm lazy, might just buy Waxoyl. Doesn't help for body work though.

Bottom line, if you really want the rust gone (not just temporarily out of sight) you will likely have to go somewhere and have it cut out and a patch welded or glued in (make sure you paint or use the waxy stuff on the inside of the panel). Otherwise anything you do will likely just make your rust problem worse overall in the long-run because by the time you see the rust bubble through your repair work it has likely spread farther and gotten worse than if you had just cut it out to begin with.

 

[fsusteve]

Ospho also works well, do your steps and then brush it on. Then prime over.

 

[warpig]

http://www.eastwoodco.com/

check these guys out. You can apply this material, it will work. I have two friends that own body shops and they say it works. Both have over 20yrs experience. It's what I am using. I had a guy that built a pipe fence for me once a few years ago and he said that he used por15 and has never seen rust spread.

I have some minor rust damage on one top rail of my 55...i will be using it shortly.

 

[Overlord]

What about using Rust Bullet?

http://www.rustbullet.com/

I'm going to use it on my rear wheel well opening were some rust is starting show up.

 

[RyRy]

Can you get those products in Perth, Australia? If so, where?? Cheers

Ryan

 

[Landpimp]

on my fj55, it has/had rust poping and holes all over the place, I slaped on some POR15 over the holes/spots ect..........I did NO prep, just brushed it on...........3 years latter sitting out in the rain the spots I POR15'd have no gotten bigger and the flaky rust is strong, pretty amazing stuff. The black did fade but it didn't effect anything.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Por is still one of the best, prolly the most toxic to apply by spray gun that I have ever seen.

Brushing is safe.

I second the home made system for coating internal panels etc.

Someone posted a great article several months ago on IH8MUD on this and did his own salt spray cabinet testing as he had access to one. He found the best of four products was..............

TREMCLAD???????????

 

[logic2]

- Phosporic ACID Stopping Rust

I might be able to contribute somewhat on this topic. I recently restored a 1956 Ford F100 Pickup that was suffering from (rust between the seams, welds, etc..).

My suggestion is to use Phosporic Acid which can be purchased at any auto paint & body supply. Although you should definately wear gloves when applying, it's not that bad, it does NOT burn like he77 if you get it on your skin, in fact most of the stuff you'll find at the paint supply will be heavily diluted.
The last time I bought some, it came in a clear plastic bottle and was light-green in color. It causes a chemical reaction that actually reverses the rust process. Please understand, the damage that's done is DONE and there's no getting the metal back, but the rust that has already started will turn black in color and the spreading will stop - at least for a very long time. For me it has been rust free for over 6 years. I would follow the directions on the bottle if I were you, but an overview of the process is to sand, file, scrape all the rust that you can get to down to the metal...just make sure the surface rust is cleaned and any pitted areas are exposed...it doesn't have to be clean shiny metal. Then use a paint brush or spray bottle (kitchen cleaner bottle works great) and spray (drench) the rusted area really, really, well and let stand for 15 - 30 minutes. Then rinse with water hose & wipe down using a shop cloth / dry rag. Finally spray the area with a good primer (rust inhibitor primer).

I'm sure there are some better ideas out there, but this one has worked well for me.

I also have a link about rust / metal work you might want to read.
http://yarchive.net/metal/rust_remove.html

Good Luck

 

[logic2]

ooops !
I almost forgot to mention Naval Jelly - I used this on some pretty bad rusted spots and it also worked wonders. It composed of mostly Phosporic Acid also and can be foudn at many auto parts stores and hardware stores.

http://www.shorechemical.com/Section 7 Tech Sheets/naval_jelly.htm

Mike

 

[Klunky Chris]

I have heard real good things about Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator
(My auto body friends who also do restorations like Eastwood as a company in general)

apparently it was first designed for use on off shore oil rigs...... If you need protection anywhere, I'd say that's the place eh?

you don't need special thinners if you're spraying. It sprays easier, and is UV resistant (unlile POR15). Dries much quicker, and doesn't need a top coat. It also apparently resists future problems better

read this review vs. POR15:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852

oh.... and its like $5 cheaper a gallon :

just a thought, and to be honest I don't have first hand knowlege of either product.

 

[Steve C]

Logic 2 is right on target.

heres a gameplan
1. Cut out bad metal and replace.
2. remove surface rust with sander, blaster, etc.
3. acid etch (the paint companies sell metal cleaner and conditioners for this)
4. epoxy prime
5. apply body filler as needed.
6 epoxy prime
7 topcoat with compatable paint.

when done, keep it clean and dry. That goes a long way.

 

[Coolerman]

Hey guys,
I'm not exactly new but mostly only come here when I need good info. Thought this info might be of some use to others.
I just recently ordered two pints of the Rust Bullet stuff. I was replacing the rear frame crossmember of my 2/71 FJ40 with one from a 1974. Mine was rusted beyond repair. I sandblasted the rear frame, crossmember support pieces and rear frame crossmember then brushed on two coats of the Rust Bullet (It can be sprayed also). It's cool stuff. It fills in the pits nicely and drys very quickly. It's a nice silver color, can be exposed to the sun but can be top coated if desired. It's very durable and if top coated with an epoxy paint would be very tough. See attached pic of rear section of frame. I also sandblasted the rear light housings, put two coats of Rust Bullet on them then used fiberglass to repair the rust holes. They should last a while... I have many pics of all this if anyone wants to see them....

Going back to lurk mode.....

 

[Trevor]

I second the Ospho and phosphoric acid comments (Ospho is phosphoric acid). It's cheap, easy, available at any hardware store, and it works.

 

[sherwood]

On this rust thing........ I know it's impracticle for the Land Cruiser.... but could be applied to things like bumpers, rool bars, bull bars, etc........

Old timey aircraft trick. Many of the older, fabric covered aircraft were made of chomoly tubing. Some were intricate structures of longerons and diagonal trusses, etc..... kinda' looking like bridge structures. It was typical to totally weld up the rig to the point that it was one sealed unit. As soon as it was completed, a hole would be drilled and linseed oil would be poured into the fuselage framework. Then, the whole structure would be rotated at all angles to completely coat the inside of the tubing. Next, you would drain the bulk of the linseed oil out of the frame (for weight reasons). Then, the hole would be welded shut. Some builders even tapped the hole and installed a schrader valve or something to put pressure into the frame.... plus a small pressure guage. A few pounds of air or nitrogen pressure would be pumped in. The guage would provide notification if something had broken or rusted through.

Just some old aviation trivia.

John Sherwood '79 FJ-40
Charlotte, NC TLCA Upstate Cruisers

 

[poldo]

I have heard real good things about Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator
(My auto body friends who also do restorations like Eastwood as a company in general)

apparently it was first designed for use on off shore oil rigs...... If you need protection anywhere, I'd say that's the place eh?

you don't need special thinners if you're spraying. It sprays easier, and is UV resistant (unlile POR15). Dries much quicker, and doesn't need a top coat. It also apparently resists future problems better

read this review vs. POR15:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852

oh.... and its like $5 cheaper a gallon :

just a thought, and to be honest I don't have first hand knowlege of either product.

I have it on my frame and suspension, however you need to thin it for spraying
very easy to brush on or to spray now I am switching to zero rust for the interior and wheel well because they have a color similar to the Toy "mustard yellow" if that is as good as the eastwood rust encapsulator I will paint the whole body in and out and under rust encapsulator is so far very good but make sure to clean all the loose flakes off and it can be top coated
BTW zero rust is a lot cheaper than R.E.

 

[Steve C]

Ditto the phosphoric acid comments.

I used ppg metal cleaner and metal conditioner (which I think have phosphoric acid) before epoxy primer and it seems OK.