[DomSmith]

The oiler came in so I picked it up and then proceeded to tear the case apart to get to the tranny side. Once apart it's pretty clear how the oiler snaps in...

[DomSmith]

I followed the FSM and re-installed the front housing, idler shaft, gears, etc.

After installing the PTO gear it was time to add the output shaft rear bearing, then the rear output shaft with gears...

[DomSmith]

Now it's time for the rear section of the case. I Inserted the trust washer to the back of the case using MP grease and lined it up to the front (I didn't forget this gasket!). Be sure to use the correct length bolts for each hole. I didn't disassemble my case so this part took me awhile. The long bolts are obvious (Red arrows are long, yellow is medium and the rest were shorter), but there seemed to be a question on a few of the shorter bolts. It seemed to me that the two bolts on the far left needed to be shorter than what I had so I used shorter ones. Torqued these to spech and then put on the idler lock plate.

[DomSmith]

After the rear case was on I slid the speedo gear into place and then attached the rear bearing retainer. This is the reatiner from the SOR Parking Brake Kit. To adjust the rear output shaft preload you have to put on the rear lock nut.

[DomSmith]

Reviewing my post I realized I forgot to mention the shift fork and alignment with the shifter when putting the rear of the case on...

I had to be sure to line up the hi/low shift lever tip in the shaft slot on the underside of the shaft (a little difficult to see here)...

[DomSmith]

Finished up with the PTO cover, Tranny output shaft lock nut (staked) and rear cover.

[DomSmith]

And...




Complete assembly minus shift linkage, parking brake, and front flange.

[Fast Eddy]

You must be a proud papa...

[Trollhole]

How sweet it is.

[centerlineseal]

You have no idea how valuable this thread is to this fool who'll be going through this in about 30 days! Dom, thank you kindly!

[Bennett]

If you don't mind me asking..

How much are you into the total setup?

[DomSmith]

Jim-

Sorry I missed you while you were here. Let me know if you come to town again. Don't hesitate to ask me anything either, I'm trying to be reasonably thorough with the thread without posting EVERYTHING.

[DomSmith]

Bennet-

Don't mind at all. I planned on posting all the costs anyway. I'll try to get some up this weekend. I want to be sure I post REAL costs not just ballpark figures.

[centerlineseal]

Not to worry, I'll be back!

Right now I'm waiting on the new H55 from SoCal, my splitcase from a mudder in Oregon, my backordered 4" Hell For Stout lift from Cool Cruisers of Texas and I need to order the 327 longblock, an EFI/HEI turnkey setup, Mr. Manny's wheels, etc. etc. etc.

Gonna be a long summer! Thanks again!

[DomSmith]

I'm back at it after a short delay (Baja 500 interlude). Got the new clutch parts (Centerforce disc and plate) and had the flywheel turned at the local speed shop. While I was there my buddy hooked me up with a Hot Rodder who was selling some coated and just planed (used) rams horn manifolds for $75.

Picking up an engine hoist tomorrow and will be pulling the motor (moving forward to accomodate the H55) and grinding off the old motor mounts and tranny mounts. I'm going to stick with the AA mounts as that's what's in there now, but was considering the ones Matt Bier was selling but that centers the engine and I know the AA's will work for me.

While at it I decided to replace my fan and shroud with the Taurus fan I got from Cam. Here's what it looked like before...

[DomSmith]

I'm planning another Taurus Fan Thread but here are a few shots from the project. I removed the radiator and bracket and fitted the fan to the radiator and bracket while it's out of the rig. Dremeled out areas of the plastic fan for proper fitment and used 2 metal straps to attach the side without holes. I drilled the radiator bracket and welded nuts on the back side for easy installation...

[DomSmith]

Fabbed up a replacement Radiator support and placed the Taurus fan into position (not wired up yet). This is the fitment prior to moving the engine forward...

Used a grinder with a cutting blade to cut off the old rear tranny mounts...

[DomSmith]

In preperation for moving the engine forward I disconnected all the wiring and labeled each side with where it goes. There is some need to upgrade some connectors as you can see...

[DomSmith]

Bennet-

Here's the beginning of a price breakdown. I'll continue to update as needed. I have a few receipts MIA but as soon as I find them I'll add the prices to the items listed...


1. H55 Tranny Brand new from Toyota of El Cajon- $1550+$120 TAX=$1670

2. Tranny Shifter (Toyota part#33530-60160) $126

3. Shift knob- H55 Toyota (SOR#066-070A) $40

4. Tranny Mount- FJ40 (80-84) tranny mount cross member (SOR#106-150K-U) $90… L Brackets (SOR 106-141C-L-U & 106-141C-R-U) ($36x2) $162 ...and bushing (SOR #040-08BH-A) $32

5. Split Transfer Case (from an 87 FJ60 w/ shift linkage) $325 shipped USED
Machine shop: Hot Tank case and install of gears on new longer PBrake Shaft and tap and plug hole in TCase: $80
*These were a few parts that were missing from my disassembled T Case:
Transfer Nut (SOR #068-13C) $4
Transfer Shift USED (SOR #074-08A-U) $30
Split T Case Bearing (SOR #070-08S) $18

6. Oiler pipe: (33124-36010) $3.06

7. Transfer Case Gasket kit (SOR#068-60E). $63 and Trsfr seal (SOR#068-03B) $3.75

8. 4 Speed driveshaft yoke to slip into my 3 Speed driveshaft. (Had)

9. One FJ60 driveshaft slip yoke (FRONT) to slide into my 3 speed driveshaft.$42 shipped USED And 8 later model driveshaft nuts $16.

10. Front transfer case flange 19 spline FJ60 from from Kurt @ Cruiseroutfitters. $55

11. Custom driveshafts (length adjustment, balancing, new U-Joints) $256

12. Bellhousing-Downey (#331F4) 4 speed to V8 (includes slave braket) $313 Had to fab up my own slave bracket as the Downey one was terrible.

13. Starter w/ nose cone that bolts to Bellhousing (To fit Downey adapter). Carquest#3635S $53

14. Clutch Components-
Disc: Centerforce #383735 $89+ TAX
Pressure Plate: Centerforce 11" low profile #CF165473S $155+TAX
Flywheel resurfacing $25
TO Bearing: Stock 4 Speed Toyota TO bearing. $33 (SOR#018-18B)
TO Bearing Collar: Stock 4 Speed Collar $18 USED (SOR#018-16B-U)
Clutch Fork:4 speed Toyota clutch fork (had)
w/ ball (SOR#018-15B), bolt (SOR#018-77A) and 2 clips (SOR#018-17B). $16
Slave Cylinder and slave mount: Original Toyota clutch slave (un-shortened rod) from my 3 speed to V8 conversion. (Have) Fabricated a clutch slave bracket.
Pilot Bearing: SBC Pilot (free)

15. Longer speedo cable (I DID NOT NEED THIS!) Stock fit fine.

16. Parking Brake conversion kit (SOR# 068-100CB-Kit). $415 USE THE REAR TCASE SEAL FROM THIS KIT NOT FROM THE SPLIT CASE REBUILD KIT (IT IS TOO SMALL AND WON'T SEAL THE SOR SHAFT).

17. Longer parking brake cable. (I DID NOT NEED THIS!) Stock fit fine.

18. Exhaust: Custom exhaust with:
GM Rams horns w/ center down spout. $75 USED coated and planed.
manifolds back: Custom built with Magnaflow muffler along with some welding and custom fab work (torque tube removal as well) $425

19. Motor Mounts: Re-used my AA brackets and ordered new rubber mounts. (SOR#330-901). $49

20. Longer hard flexible hydraulic line to move the clutch slave from the drivers side to the passengers side. Napa (Part # 813-5500) $10?

Other Miscellaneous:
2 Metal Plates (10X10X1/4”) $10
Used Wire Loom for backup and 4WD connectors (SOR) $5
Generic tranny hump seal $22
Stainless Fasteners$45

2. Taurus Fan




THINGS I DID NOT INCLUDE:
Gear oil, motor oil, paint, gasket sealer, etc.

There are a few other items I am doing at the same time that are (or will be) included in the write-up:

Power steering pump overhaul:

Power steering pump rebuild kit $44 (+$8 core)

Taurus Fan install:

Fan: $65 shipped USED
Adjustable fan wiring kit (Carquest# HTR 77530) $61
Electrical switches/connectors/fuses $43
Switch plate $10

Hope this helps. (Updated as of 6/28/2007)

[DomSmith]

Before attaching the flywheel and installing the clutch I replaced the oil seals...

Then trimmed the clutch cover to fit the larger rear main seal. This picture shows a partial trimming...

[DomSmith]

Here's the new Centerforce disc and pressure plate. After installing the flywheel I realized I needed a starter that bolted to the Downey adapter Bellhousing rather than the one I had which bolted to the block. The Downey book describes the possibility of changing only the nose cone, but I decided to just get a remanufactured starter for $53 instead of messing with it.

The two different starters... the red arrow shows the different mounting ears for the bellhousing mounted version vs. the old block mounted style.

And the starter bolted to the housing. This was just to assure fitment, and I removed the starter prior to installing the bellhousing...

[DomSmith]

I had a 4 speed clutch fork in a box of cruiser stuff that I was able to salvage, but I had to purchase the hub, clips, ball and bolts. The USED hub from SOR came with a TO bearing that looked great but I replaced it with new just to be sure.

Hub w/ new bearing...


Clutch fork assembly...

[DomSmith]

I then installed the clutch disc and Pressure plate assuring that the clutch alignment tool was centered...


and finally, the Downey bellhousing...


Next up: Pulling the motor and grinding off motor mounts to reposition the engine...

[centerlineseal]

Looks like you're getting there Dom! Lots of good stuff here. My H55 should be in SD next week.

I'm pretty sure I'm going with a Ramjet crate motor (Lordy!), So I'm real interested in your engine placement and position. (I have the old, old AA adaptor kit with the plate bolted to the front of the SBC block and I expect I need to go with the newer engine mounting setup, which your pics will help me identify and figure out!

The thread is a great help!

I'm in SD, near San Vincente reservoir 25th thru the 27th. How close are you?

[fjwagon]

What will you be using as Tcase shifter.......the original fj60 hardware? I bent up mine so it could be operational.....but every now and then it will get stuck and it's hard to shift.

[DomSmith]

Yeah, I have all the original shift linkage from an 87 split case. I'm hoping I won't have to do any mods to it.

[DomSmith]

Well while trying to position the clutch fork, one of the hub clips dropped into the clutch pressure plate! FUUUUUUU$%!!!

Unbelievable.

Looked with a mirror and tried using a magnet w/o any luck.










I want to swallow a hand grenade...

[DomSmith]

Well I removed the starter, bellhousing, and pressure plate to retreive the clutch hub clip... I won't make that mistake again.

Once put back together I started preping for mounting the tranny and determining motor placement. But first I needed to get the clutch hydraulics over to the passenger side...

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/161053-switching-clutch-fork-sides.html


I bought a bendable hydraulic line from Napa (Part # 813-5500) which turned out to be a perfect length. I had initially wanted to cut the tubing and re-use my fittings but they were in pretty bad shape. The only difference I see in these is 11mm heads versus 10mm. I bent the line and routed it along the firewall and down on the passenger side. I haven't secured it yet, but may use stock clips...

[DomSmith]

Next I attached the cherry picker to the motor and loosened the motor mount bolts. This allowed me to tilt the rear of the motor down to make it easier to line up the tranny.

I put the tranny on a tranny jack and had to angle it to the side to clear the frame when sliding it beneath the rig. I also had to jack up the rear of the rig to get enough height for it to fit...

[DomSmith]

After wrestling with the line up I finally got it together....

I decided at that point to put the motor back in it's original position and see how things looked. I put the motor mount bolts back in to line things up and took stock...

Plenty of room on the rear frame member and I hadn't even moved the motor forward yet (I'm glad I waited on cutting that)...

This would allow me to try a few different heights for the tranny/tcase.