Frustrated to the point of maybe selling FJ40

outdoork9lady · 05-15-07, 09:19 AM

Hello,

As previously posted, I never claimed to be a mechanic and though I dove into my lil project with zest and hopes, they have been dashed again. I am almost to the point of wondering why I ever touched the dang thing for a leak.

As those that read the progress, all the gaskets and seals were changed out. Everything underneath cleaned and the underbody proved to be rust free. Put in a new clutch and refinished the flywheel. Nothing leaked, everythng good. HOWEVER, it was now backfiring when it was powered down for braking. Figured it now needed a tune up as the lil guy probably didn't know how to react to no leaks and full bellies of oil and lube. Oh yeah and a couple of times it kinda kachunked after it was turned off.

So, I drove it, figuring I would take it in for it's tune up right after my Silverado Truck was finished with it's maintainence. Of course mechanical cooperation didn't occur and while on the freeway it died. I coasted to the side of the freeway and was able to start it but it wouldn't stay on.

Now here is where I get ready to sell it....once at my dad's shop, with tune up products in hand, we go to start it up and poof, lots of smoke comes up from under the dashboard and begins to go under the firewall into the engine compartment. Turned off engine and unhooked battery and there it has remained for a couple of weeks.

Last night I ripped out the stereo system to see if I could see any burn/smoke marks. Couldn't. I am beginning to believe that it is my ignition system. I did replace the starter. I have a new 105amp 1-wire alternator. There is no hook up to an amp meter (I have heard that these can start fires because too much juice will go to amp meter if not stock), but I do have a new volt regulator. Professional installation for everything but the starter.

Does ANYONE have any suggestions or $20,000 for the whole FJ40????????

Tired.....working 2 jobs......wah! :(

DSRTRDR · 05-15-07, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by outdoork9lady

we go to start it up and poof, lots of smoke comes up from under the dashboard and begins to go under the firewall into the engine compartment.

this does not smell good

sounds indeed like a wiring problem

90 Weight · 05-15-07, 10:11 AM

well if you get really angry....and want to give it away...im sure my shepherd would love a rust free cruiser to lounge in!

dibs

ps..x2 on the wiring issue....I vote for a whole new harness!

JohnnyC · 05-15-07, 10:41 AM

is it a GM 1 wire alternator?

they are internally regulated...you bypass the external VR...

i don't have one ...but...i think this is the case

dieselcruiserhead · 05-15-07, 10:45 AM

hang in there, you'll figure it out and be fine.. If it is backfiring going down hill, it is a clogged emissions system (if you have one) or timing that is off (too far advanced if I remember correctly)...

PabloCruise · 05-15-07, 11:01 AM

Hang in there!

The '78 is about the best year 40 out there.

This is a 30 year old vehicle, they need some TLC...

PabloCruise · 05-15-07, 11:04 AM

Backfire could be caused by faulty ABV in emissions system.

Do you have an emissions manual?

JohnnyC · 05-15-07, 11:05 AM

check the alt gage wire in back were they "bypassed" ...look to see if their tape off ...came off ...and the wire rubbed against the speedo case.

madoc1 · 05-15-07, 11:11 AM

i second johny c. if it really is a one wire alt. , it willbe internally regulated. maybe you should have a talk with your "professional". if you search on here uou will find info on how to hook it up luck jim

JohnnyC · 05-15-07, 11:16 AM

also...the whole ignition sys will not be shot...it's a cruiser...it's simple wireing and simple fixes...all basics

It can be fixed...by you...you will turn out the be the perfesional in the end

esh · 05-15-07, 12:59 PM

On the other hand, if it's giving you too much stress to deal with it Mudrak is not far from you in Sonoma. I've let projects sit from sheer frustration for months before jumping back in.

JJS · 05-15-07, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by esh

I've let projects sit from sheer frustration for months before jumping back in.

x2. Case in point, my 40 and my now-sold early Bronco. Sometimes you need to walk away for a while. You'll get the inspiration to do it again at some point.

For the record, the Bronco was sold due to lack of room for it, not frustration.

NocalFJ60 · 05-15-07, 01:29 PM

First thing is find out where the smoke came from. Did it start normally and idle fine before you turned it off due to the smoke. You got a multimeter?

outdoork9lady · 05-15-07, 10:02 PM

I will certainly look into the larger wires, coming from both the starter and the 1-wire alternator. The smoke appeared to come from the back of the stereo system, but that doesn't make much sense. I have a tentative appt with an automotive electrician on Monday if I can't pinpoint the problem by then.

Electrical problems scare the bee geezus out of me.

1973Guppie · 05-15-07, 11:27 PM

Is this thing your daily driver? If not.....

1 - step away for a few weeks

2 - plan all the stuff you want to do, make a strategy, write it down, make lists. GET FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS.

3 - go through the whole car and fix things you are unsure of, don't like, etc. I don't mean restore it, but rather make a list of all the things that "bug" you or could lead to potential problems in the future. tackle them one at a time, learn about your vehicle. inspect the wiring all over the truck, repair bad wiring sections, tighten bolts, repair bad rust areas, add any little accessories you want, tune it up, brakes, steering, oils flushed, overall get it in good driving condition.

OR take it to someone to do all of this. Sounds like it needs some overall TLC and a good "go through" and it will be fine.

Noah

mustardfj40 · 05-16-07, 12:01 AM

Troubleshoot electrical problems was always challenging to me too, with the help of this board espcially Pin Head and a good factory wiring diagrams and a volt meter was able to figure it out...It took a while but found 2 shorts in the truck, one bad ignition switch, and a dead ignition module!

Yes, there were frustrated moments but I just went mountain biking and get back to it couple days later.

Don't give up and good luck.

deneric · 05-16-07, 12:35 AM

I used to be totally petrified of electrical problems. I just got the factory shop manual with the wiring harness for my year, because they are ALL different, and picked up a basics of electrical wiring book, and some testing equipment and I fixed everything myself. It took some time and a box of cuss words sometimes, but when I fixed everything I felt like the smartest guy on the planet. Just stick with it and take your time. If you sell your cruiser you will kick yourself someday. If I could tell you how many times I was ready to throw in the towel.... anyway don't give up!!

Eric

azlar · 05-16-07, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by outdoork9lady

Electrical problems scare the bee geezus out of me.

It's just 'trons, we can outthink it...

Seriously, get a multi-meter and a wiring diagram. Automotive electical problems are a bear to fix, but it usually boils down to tedious diagnostics of "current" or "no current"

If you're backfiring on deceleration or running-on with the key turned off, it's marginally related to electrical systems. More likely a fuel cutoff valve or overly advanced timing (advance runs the engine a little hotter, so hot carbon residue on the top of the pistons ignites the incoming fuel and it sputters on for a few revs)

Set your timing to stock, check voltage to the battery, and go wheeling.

Cruiserdrew · 05-16-07, 10:40 AM

Your first step now is to figure out what got burned. Those wires need to be replaced. I agree, though, a new harness or even aftermarket harness might give you better results at this point.

You might be better off with a lower power electrical system-any thoughts to going back to the stock alternator?

outdoork9lady · 05-16-07, 11:12 AM

I put the larger alternator in there for the future projects. Currently, I have a WARN 9000 winch on it right now and good stereo system. In the future, I am looking at fog lights, and I use lots of 9V stuff like plugging in the GPS and charging cell phones/port CB's....looking at a 2nd battery.....

So the idea of a new wire harness has crossed my mind but not my budget at this time. It does appear that the wire harness has moved up in the itemized list of wants and needs though. Power steering and that lift just keep getting pushed back. Not to mention the frame off for an awesome paint job.....LOL

I would like to do it right and meticulously when I do the wire harness. So I am probably going to save every dollar and go for someone who does it professionally to do it. That is probably going to run me to $2000. I think CCOT has the full Painless Wire harness for about $600 out the door. The weather resistant/proof is not available for my year.

okie · 05-16-07, 11:45 AM

hey seems like things are getting a bit frustrating.

is the electrical place dean's electric, if so he knows those cruisers WELL. your in good hands.

if that doesn't work i know 2 other shops here in livermore that love the old fj40s and they do a good job if you need a mechanic to look it over.

Olsens auto repair

and livermore engine center off vasco talk to Peter.

goodluck if you need numbers i will look them up and find em for you.

peesalot · 05-16-07, 12:05 PM

I had the same electrical issue and to make matters worse the po had pigged,spliced,and generally fubared the wiring. There was prolly 200+ ft of THHN under the dash. Simple solution , I found the original wire loom coming into cab from firewall and cut it clean. ripped all wiring outa the dam thing. Got a factory manual to help with blinker/hazard and running lights and then rewired the whole thing with 5 colors and about 3 days . It is a little messy under the hood but it all works , except for the dam noise in the cb.

peesalot · 05-16-07, 12:07 PM

I forgot to mention, the smoke , if electrical means something was going to ground. If it does not do it 100% of the time then it has to be something going to ground only when s switch is on , ie: headlights, fan, wipers , something that is swithched.

outdoork9lady · 05-16-07, 12:16 PM

Dean, has done all my electrical work for my Silverado and backs all his work. He is the guy standing by to help me on Monday'ish....and he is the one who built my alternator and my foreman here at work (who has worked extensively with Dean and built many vehicles including race boats) installed it, to save me money and Dean's install was further out.

Olsen Auto is now right next door to our new shop and so I know who and where he is.....this is good info. As for the third....I do not know of him but always appreciate another good source. When you need the best, so do others, so having the back ups (plus we have a fleet of vehicles here at work) always is helpful.

Now to figure out how to tow it again....to Dean's. Trying not take advantage of my BF, who keeps bailing me out with tows from the company he works for.

Pin_Head · 05-16-07, 01:10 PM

The good news is that it should be easy to find which wire shorted as it is fried smoking mess.
It has to be a wire that is before the fuse block; otherwise it would have just popped a fuse. Start with the large white wire from the battery. If this wire had a fusible link like it is supposed to, it probably would not have fried the rest of the wire. It runs to the amp meter. From there, it goes to the ignition switch and fuse block. The ignition wire from the key to the coil is one of the only circuits that is not fused and a short could explain why it died.

The popping in the exhaust manifold when you let off the gas is due to the throttle positioner on the carburetor not working and/or the air bypass valve on the air injection system. The TP is controlled by the engine speed sensor and computer. The ABV runs off manifold vacuum.

These are old trucks and there will always be something going wrong. Just bite the bullet and fix the whole system and then it will be good for another 40 years.

jeffery_1965 · 05-16-07, 01:22 PM

One thing to look for is if the 1 wire alternator was hooked up to the existing wire that runs up to the ammeter. It's not enough to just bypass the ammeter, but you can not hook a large alternator up to that wire and not expect something to let some smoke out. If the stock alternator is good for 40 amps or so, and the factory wiring is minimal at best for that, you can't expect something capable of pushing 105 amps to not break something.

A good source of information is www.madelectrical.com . This article: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml is what I used when I installed my high current 12si Delco alternator. I also used the concept found in: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml to remove the headlight current from the stock wiring harness. I gained in headlight brightness, and comfort in knowing that less current was flowing through my old harness.

Like others have said, take a break if needed, ask lots of questions if you have them, and get back to it. It will be worth it in the end!

Good luck,

Jeff

fjwagon · 05-16-07, 06:45 PM

All I can add from what was already said is do a visual check on the wiring. I once bought a fj40 for the same problems you are having. I disconnected the battery and cleaned every treminal I could find with a wire brush, cleaned connections on the fuse holder and made sure nothing was loose including grounds. You will be surprised what loose a ground will do. Also reseated plugs and inspected them. A day and half later I had it running. Spent no money just a lot of time. And just like everyone said these 40s are old and need lots of attention. But once you get all the bugs out of them they are hard to kill.

Hang in there and the more you work on it the more you will understand and will get easier to fix.

madoc1 · 05-16-07, 07:12 PM

listen to jeffery-1965. that is some really good info on those sites. read up and learn. hope i dont sound snotty, but there is a lot of info on this site if you want go to the trouble to look. jim

outdoork9lady · 05-23-07, 06:30 PM

My electrician checked it out for a day and a half.....couldn't find anything that had burnt. THe battery terminal to ground was so loose and wired wierd, that he changed that out and took for a ride. It fired right up and drove like a champ everywhere. On the freeway, thru downtown...everywhere....no backfire, no kachunk after turning it off, no smoke no mirrors......nada.....

How wierd is that? So I pick it up tomorrow and take it for a spin.

sine80 · 05-23-07, 06:59 PM

Same thing happened with mine the other day. big puff of white smoke when I hooked the battery terminals up on the wrong side. I know, I know, looooosser.. Well we had a 2f up in the air from parting out a 60 and I had to quickly install my battery back (cause I was using for the compression test on the 60 motor earlier that day) and .. . .. pooof . .. ... did an inspection, no cause found for the big smoke stack yet. My CB doesnt work though...

It sounds like all is good. Post up a report when you drive it.

Dont sell it!

mike