I need Intake Manifold help!!!

TLCFJ401976 · 03-30-07, 08:22 AM

Hi everyone! I have a 1976 FJ40 (w/ 2bbl carb), and a bunch of intake/exhaust questions for your collective brains:

1.) Does anyone know if anyother year FJ intakes/exhaust will fit this application?

2.) Is it best to buy a "fitted" pair intake/exhaust set?

3.) Who makes the best aftermarket intake/exhaust manifolds because Toyota OEMs for this application are well above $1000!!!

4.) I have a 3 inch crack in my intake right below my carb mounting possition; Is the welding of cast a real bad idea as the exhuast is possitioned right under the intake?

Thanks for any and all help guys!!!

~John

Felix · 03-30-07, 08:23 AM

You should be able to pick up a used intake manifold in decent shape from someone here on MUD. Try posting in the wanted section.

bsevans · 03-30-07, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TLCFJ401976

Hi everyone! I have a 1976 FJ40 (w/ 2bbl carb), and a bunch of intake/exhaust questions for your collective brains:

1.) Does anyone know if anyother year FJ intakes/exhaust will fit this application?

2.) Is it best to buy a "fitted" pair intake/exhaust set?

3.) Who makes the best aftermarket intake/exhaust manifolds because Toyota OEMs for this application are well above $1000!!!

4.) I have a 3 inch crack in my intake right below my carb mounting possition; Is the welding of cast a real bad idea as the exhuast is possitioned right under the intake?

Thanks for any and all help guys!!!

~John

Take it to a good machine shop and have it TIG welded. The intake manifold can be welded. The crack is probably caused because your heat riser plate is stuck causing the exhaust gases to constantly flow past the bottom of the intake manifold which will eventually cause a crack to form from constant heating of the surface. I had the same problem (the crack was on both sides of the manifold) and had the intake manifold repaired with no further issues. You will need to address the non functioning heat riser plate if that is the issue. This is a classic problem with 2F engines that had heat riser plates. The machine shop here in Tucson I use has fixed many a 2F intake manifold. The machine shop also removed the heat riser system and pluged the holes that mounted the riser pivot in the exhaust manifold.

Coolerman · 03-30-07, 09:01 AM

Go to headers to get rid of the heat on the intake problem. If you do that then you could use epoxy to fill the crack for a cheap temporary fix until you can get it welded.

mhdsummers · 03-30-07, 09:25 AM

It can be done.
http://www.muggyweld.com/5clip7.html

I had the same issue. I just found a used intake manifold and welded the heat riser closed since it was not working correctly.

65swb45 · 03-30-07, 11:34 AM

Welding your intake will be more than sufficient provided you address the problem with the exhaust that created the situation. A header is one option. You can also just weld the heat riser OPEN. The carb will warm up a little slower, but not as slow as with a header.

Best

Mark A.

Relix · 08-13-07, 01:03 AM

So no one makes an aftermarket intake manifold for the 2f?

Pin_Head · 08-13-07, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Relix

So no one makes an aftermarket intake manifold for the 2f?

Offenhauser makes a 4bbl manifold for the F/2F.

bsevans · 08-13-07, 05:11 AM

Any good engine shop can TIG weld your intake manifold crack. I also have the shop I use TIG weld the seats where the manifold bolt washer presses against. I then cut new seats that are the same height as the exhaust seat so as to eliminate any exhaust leak due to the washer not having the same force on both manifolds (intake & exhaust). It is very easy to cut the intake manifold seat height to within .010 of the exhaust mounting flange height using a router and the correct router bit. Having the header mounting flange machined down to match the intake manifold seat height is the wrong way to go in my opinion.

grant5127 · 08-13-07, 05:26 AM

On cracked intakes, I just get them ceramic coated....cost about 50 bux... the coating seals the crack and makes the innards slick as snot... the fuel just slides through with no resistance... plus they look purdy too...

Texx · 08-13-07, 05:27 AM

I have a nice intake/exhaust for sale...pm me!

bsevans · 08-13-07, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grant5127

On cracked intakes, I just get them ceramic coated....cost about 50 bux... the coating seals the crack and makes the innards slick as snot... the fuel just slides through with no resistance... plus they look purdy too...

The crack this mudder is talking about is probably on both sides of the intake below the carb. On mine it was over an 1/8" wide and 2" long. It clearly needed to be TIG welded. Not something a coating will correct.

grant5127 · 08-13-07, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsevans

The crack this mudder is talking about is probably on both sides of the intake below the carb. On mine it was over an 1/8" wide and 2" long. It clearly needed to be TIG welded. Not something a coating will correct.

My coater has fixed that size before... the coating goes all the way through and fills the crack completely, both sides, can't even see where the crack was, inside or out....... I've got one to do coming up soon, I'll post some before and after pics on this thread...