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Old 03-01-07, 11:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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replace exhaust pipe studs with bolts?

Has anyone replaced the exhaust manifold studs with bolts? if so, any particular kind/rating? any pros/cons that I should think about?


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Old 03-02-07, 06:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Cons: You can't hang the manifold and intake from the studs while installing making it harder, If the bolt gets stuck in the head you more than likely will snap it off in the head. Studs allow you to use brass nuts, if the nut freezes to the stud you can easily just strip it off without harming the studs.

Pros: Bolts are cheaper otherwise I can't think of any...

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Old 03-02-07, 08:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Only recently found out about running brass nuts...exhaust guy said it was the only way to fly

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Old 03-02-07, 08:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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And don't forget the anti-sieze

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Old 03-02-07, 08:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mr_Manny View Post
Only recently found out about running brass nuts...exhaust guy said it was the only way to fly
Yep, I had the local machine shop tell me about this trick when I had a set Ford 360 heads freshened. While removing the exhaust I had broken off 3 bolts in the head! Two I was able to fix but they had to get the third one out. When I went to pick them up the guy had a set of hardened studs, brass nuts and washers in a bag. All for $10 extra. He explained he did not want to extract any more broken bolts and to tell everyone I knew about this.

So you've been told!

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Old 03-02-07, 09:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I like it! I am currently reworking a manifold set and will give this a try.

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Old 03-02-07, 09:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Just one word about brass nuts....................do not over-torque them.


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Old 03-02-07, 10:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolerman View Post
Cons: You can't hang the manifold and intake from the studs while installing making it harder, If the bolt gets stuck in the head you more than likely will snap it off in the head. Studs allow you to use brass nuts, if the nut freezes to the stud you can easily just strip it off without harming the studs.

Pros: Bolts are cheaper otherwise I can't think of any...
I just installed my rams horns with Grade 8 bolts. It was a cake walk. In terms of removing the "studs" they're a PITA to remove. I had three studs on the bottom that were stuck in the RAMS. I tried to remove those faukers but they would not budge (heated with a torch).

I gave up and took them to the machine shop and it took them an hour to remove. I asked the machine shop guy (Edwards Engines) about bolts in the mainiafold and he said it would be okay as long as they are grade 8.---so I have bolts in my Rams horns. I hope there won't be problems.

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Old 03-02-07, 10:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Cool tip, haven't heard of that before. Are metric nuts easy to come by?

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Old 03-03-07, 04:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Cool tip, haven't heard of that before. Are metric nuts easy to come by?
Nah, easy to find, just castrate a few monkeys from Europe!

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Old 03-03-07, 01:43 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Nah, easy to find, just castrate a few monkeys from Europe!
I was waiting for some wise arse to say something

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Old 03-04-07, 07:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Cool


www.grainger.com Part #6CA95 10mm x 1.50 box 25 for $10.50

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It's not having what you want, it's wanting what you got...

http://tinyurl.com/ygeqfp7 FJ40 Wiring Parts for Sale
http://tinyurl.com/mxj5ve Misc Parts FOR SALE!
http://tinyurl.com/47zpb (My Web Site)
http://tinyurl.com/2h6hc7 (Nut and Bolt Spreadsheet)
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Old 03-04-07, 09:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I've run studs and brass nuts on various exhaust manifolds. Also use spring lockwashers instead of split lockwashers, as they don't dig into the nut.

Sometimes brass lockwashers aren't the best, though. Some headers can require a fair amount of torque to properly seal, even with thicker "header" gaskets. You can strip out the brass nuts. In this case, I use regular nuts with anti-seize, and once a year remove each nut and retorque it to ensure it won't stick.

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