Calling on all BDS owners...

F-junker · 02-28-07, 08:35 AM

It took me long enough to figure out what type of springs I was running; the only ones that llok like BDS Ha! go figure. My search skills are improving.

I've read time and time again about all 4" lifts being stiff, kindneys bruised, peeing blood etc. etc. Solutions mostly read have been, riding to piss out of them, flexing them out, weight in the truck with sand bags, fat chicks and caming gear.

I've only found one person who mentioned pulling a leaf out WITH BDS springs. These springs seem to have a little bit different construction than most. I rebushed the front when I tore them done and rebuilt the front end. The rear springs I just brushed up all the rust, painted, greased and put the old bushings back in. (I mean new spring pack friction pads, there are new bushings the whole way around and the shackles are not tight by any means)

I'm a little unsure of which leaves I should remove. The tiny short shit doesn't seem to do much, the second one up maybe? the third spring has a clamp on it, so I thought that one should stay, next up the miltary wrapper. I did see where someone stated they would have left that one out had they had to do it all over again.

I want a plan of action here with this project. I plan on flexing it out on a 2-3 foot drop-off, but am worried about bending the frame, should I be?

In doing this will I drop some of my ride height? If so I don't want to send out my rear driveshaft yet as the angles will surely be affected.

Finally, I think my front end sits slightly higher. I plan on adding a 8274 up front this year but wonder if that 100lbs will make alot of difference. I say that because when I stand on the bumper my 180 lbs doesn't make any difference now.

This truck was a rolling basket case and I know really nothing about it other than it had the crap beaten out of it and it was never properly set up for the lift. The spring packs were knocked out of place by a PO (along with many othe things that could have never been right). You'd think those springs would have been "broken in" by now huh.

I'm really debating tearing out a leaf. I want better shackle angle without tall shackles (I'm down from 4" shackles to 1.5"). Dropping down some of that arch can surely be a good thing.

SOA dudes, I'm not going through all the work for that now... so please don't tell me to SOA!!!!

Would removing that miltary wrapper (second spring) be too much?

Thanks as always to my friends here for the help. I would have given up along time ago without MUD. Ken

theo · 02-28-07, 09:20 AM

I like my 4" BDS springs. It took about 1000 miles, a couple of mild weekend wheeling trips, and a weeklong harder core trip, but they ride nice. Still stiff but not jarring, just firm. I poured motor oil over them last summer before a trip. Helped quite a bit. I would think grit and dirt would stick to grease.

I have stock shackles and the front is shimmed by 5 degrees. My rear sits a little low with a "traveling" load, but not bad.

I haven't removed leaves to from these or any other spring packs to improve the ride, but I have 2 thoughts: 1) Don't remove the military wrap, and 2) the short, thick ones are definitely stiffer than the long, thin ones.

Good luck with it.

F-junker · 02-28-07, 10:01 AM

Waht did you do with your rear driveshaft? Just curious as I've got to go with a DC joint. My driveshaft is almost 25 degrees.

66fj40x2 · 02-28-07, 12:54 PM

I removed the two smallest springs on the front and rear. This depends on what you are doing with the rig. If you haul camping gear in and out and drive to evens I'd start with the second smallest spring and go from there.

I personally like my SUA setup... much more stable IMHO.

theo · 02-28-07, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-junker

Waht did you do with your rear driveshaft? Just curious as I've got to go with a DC joint. My driveshaft is almost 25 degrees.

When I converted to a small block I already had the lift springs installed, and by luck or good fortune my rear diff and drivetrain centerlines ended up parallel to each other. By more good luck the driveshaft angle relative to them was not severe. So all I had to do was have the shaft shortened (to ~21"). (I never ran it with the lift and stock drivetrain.)

Not sure why yours is 25 degrees. It could be that my transfer case output is lower than stock. That would account for some. But it's also a little farther aft, so that would have the opposite effect. ??

theo · 02-28-07, 02:04 PM

Wait, I put the small block in and had the rear shaft shortened to fit. Then I installed the lift and the shaft still fit - the flange-to-flange distance changed by less than 1/4".

F-junker · 03-01-07, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66fj40x2

I removed the two smallest springs on the front and rear. This depends on what you are doing with the rig. If you haul camping gear in and out and drive to evens I'd start with the second smallest spring and go from there.

I personally like my SUA setup... much more stable IMHO.

I'm going to think hard about this spring removal deal. I'll flex the shit out this thing next week. I'm still worried about the frame as it had been repaired at the rear spring hangers some time ago. I would think that these spring should have been worked out in the past but it's worth a try. If not successful I'm going to remove the first two leaves on the bottom.

I want articulation!!! soft ride is ok too... but not the most important, although my dog sure would appreciate it at 10 years old, she doesn't handle the banging around and corner surfing as well anymore!