[Poser]

So since the rear engine mounts that fasten to the flywheel housing are no longer being used, I needed to figure something out for the passenger side mount that incorporated the slave cylinder mount. I was going to make something, but then found that a 60 series bracket appeared to attach in a similar location on the flywheel housing, but with 10mm diameter fasteners. I removed one that I had at the shop, drilled it out to .50”, and it fit like a dream, and works great! You can also see the 1982 and later style gear reduction starter motor that was installed and new 00 positive starter lead.

[DomSmith]

Steve-

Is that an FJ60 tranny crossmember? And how about the L brackets connecting it to the frame?

Looks SWEEET!

[Poser]

Originally Posted by DomSmith

Steve-

Is that an FJ60 tranny crossmember? And how about the L brackets connecting it to the frame?

Looks SWEEET!

It is a 40 series cross member...


The frame pieces are 60 series.

[fjwagon]

It's really nice even in when you are in 3 or 4 gear. The rpm's are not as high either. I rarely go over 60 on mine and I still like it.

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

It isn't needed in a 40 though, I mean, how fast are you going to go? It's a perfect compliment for a 60.

[Poser]

John is using a Tuffy center console so I had to mod the shift cane a bit...

[Poser]

The following are pictures of the modifications that were done to the tunnel cover piece that the shifter boots are attached to.

The range selector was pretty simple really, just had to cut it out, move it back and weld it back in place. The transmission boot uses one hole that is used to secure the later tunnel cover, and I drilled three holes and welded three 6mm nuts to the bottom of the cover. I created a lot of extra work for myself with cutting the shifter boot-mounting ring out of the cover, but I had originally thought that I would just move it rearward and turn it a bit to make it stay on the cover, but after cutting it out and looking at things, the second idea seemed to make more sense. Oh well, it is only metal! So tack, tack, tack, grind, grind, grind, and a few hours later, it was black, installed and looks fine.


Before mods, the little wonder air saw, and the cover...

[Poser]

More...

[Poser]

When the H55 install was going on, I had told John that we would replace the Warn lockouts with OEM pieces.....That opened up a real can of worms....


Removed the lockout from the passenger side, no big deal. Removed the lockout from the driver side and was greeted with a combination of grease and gear oil. No biggie, change out a couple seals and gaskets, remove the axle, clean the bearings and fing birf, repack and back together....or so I thought.

I needed to use a four-foot pry bar to get the driver side axle assembly out of the axle housing! We have a bent housing, oh goodie! The truck appears to have been a plow rig at one time, as there are holes in the frame and wear marks on the axle housing that are consistent with others that I have seen over the years.

So out with the junk and in with a 1982 40 series front axle housing, total rebuild/re-bearing/seal and gasket.


Some pictures of the wasted inner axle seals...

[Poser]

John has the truck and REALLY likes how it drives/works. We went for a ride in it together last Saturday (21APR07) and he was VERY HAPPY with it. I like how it drives, and the fifth gear really seems like it is something that should have been there from the get-go. We are going to go play with the trucks on Sunday at his farm, I know that he will like the lower first gear/low range off road as well.


Here are some random pictures...




There is room for more.......


Five squares?


OEM headlamp.

[Mace]

I <3 squares

[Poser]

Another distraction that showed up last weekend.....


Cool truck...Thanks for bringing it by Paul.

[Mace]

throw a ferd in there will ya

Steve, you notice the IFS and IRS?

[Poser]

Originally Posted by Mace

throw a ferd in there will ya

Look behind the two yellow squares...there is a 2001 Super Duty, PSD, four door, 8' box, 4x4....

Originally Posted by Mace

Steve, you notice the IFS and IRS?

Sure did....I was tearing around the back few acres of the shop area, some field, some woods trails, all rough, and I was very impressed with how nice the ride was in that thing...

They are a cool truck.... .250" roll bar tube.

[matt.mcinnes]

Looking at the mounting brackets for the gearbox cross memeber, these are a little lower than standard, this is how you have lowered the gearbox to fit?

Also do you think this will put un due strain on the engine mounts with the extra angle causing premature failer or have you angled the engine mounts too?

What soloution did you use for the handbrake drum?

[67azcruizr]

I'm realizing that perfection is just how you go about doing things.

Your posts are always worth looking at.

Looks like you've got a great thing going on up there, and seems like everyone who's met you have nothing but praise to give.

Great thread

[Poser]

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

Looking at the mounting brackets for the gearbox cross memeber, these are a little lower than standard, this is how you have lowered the gearbox to fit?

Yes, as was stated earlier in the thread.

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

Also do you think this will put un due strain on the engine mounts with the extra angle causing premature failer or have you angled the engine mounts too?

The slight static angled load these see at rest and the little increase in loads it may see while in use, will be nothing like what mine have been subjected to securing my 1982 2F between the frame rails of my Red truck. I really do not see that as being an issue. I do not really think that the front engine mounts are seeing that much more stress with the rear of the drive train being lowered like that, at least not to significance that is something to really worry about. But you can rest assured Matt, that you will be the third to know if something happens.

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

What soloution did you use for the handbrake drum?

It was on, and is still on, and is working fine. I decided to reduce the diameter of the parking brake drum just a bit to give it a little ‘cushion’, just in case.

[matt.mcinnes]

Cool, sounds like you had a lot of fun in the conversion with a few problems to solve.

Top thread hope you don't mind my questions, alway enjoy been the devils advocate.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

hope you don't mind my questions, alway enjoy been the devils advocate.

Not at all man.

We are all out here to learn, and another set of eyes on things is always a good thing.

[matt.mcinnes]

Good to here,

Look foward to your adventures

[TIAMMAX]

hello


good repair, box and exause...

bye

[Poser]

Finally was able to get the skid plate for this fabricated and installed this weekend...

[Poser]

More...

[Poser]

John’s truck still has the stock fuel lines on the frame. I modified them a bit to clear the newer style transmission mount that was installed. The rear mounting provision on the frame for securing the lines was now covered up by the angle used for the skid plate, so welded a bolt to the inner angle plate and used two rubber-cushioned positioning clamps to now secure the lines to the frame.....


This truck goes down the road so nice. It is a real pleasure to drive John!

Thanks!

[DomSmith]

Poser-

Nice work on the skid plate. What size tubing and plate did you use? Any plans for a transfer case drain area, or just drop it when needed?

[Poser]

Originally Posted by DomSmith

Poser-

Nice work on the skid plate. What size tubing and plate did you use? Any plans for a transfer case drain area, or just drop it when needed?

The tube used was 1.5”x.120” HREW for the main cross tubes and hoop around the parking brake drum. Three 1”x .120” tube was used for the stringers between the front and rear cross tubes. .250” plate was then welded to the tube frame.


It is only six bolts securing it to the frame and the one bolt securing the fuel lines that need to be removed in order to drop it. Drain holes invite rocks and other things directly into the drain plug to cause unwanted drama with them.

[HawkDriver]

Dude...

You are the master fo sho.

Nice work.

[Coolerman]

Steve,
You mentioned 'the little wonder air saw'? I have tried nibblers, air shears, tin snips, sawzall, really thin grinding wheels and even a hacksaw blade mounted in a hand held holder to cut metal and none of them are the cats meow.

Care to give some air time to the little wonder?

It looks like you have excellent control over where it goes evidenced by your cuts? How long is the stroke?

Thanks... Coolerman

[Poser]

Originally Posted by Coolerman

Steve,
You mentioned 'the little wonder air saw'? I have tried nibblers, air shears, tin snips, sawzall, really thin grinding wheels and even a hacksaw blade mounted in a hand held holder to cut metal and none of them are the cats meow.

Care to give some air time to the little wonder?

It looks like you have excellent control over where it goes evidenced by your cuts? How long is the stroke?

Thanks... Coolerman

Saw specs <---- this is a link




Just like any tool, there is a knack to it, but after you learn how to use/manipulate it, it is simply amazing what you can do with it.


There are many similar saws out there. Not all have a air restrictor/control valve built into them, but it would not be too difficult to put a generic unit on a tool that does not come with one, just after the coupler.

[DomSmith]

Poser-

I'm getting ready to secure my brackets to the inside of the frame and wondered what the plan for removing the tranny would be for this rig? Is there room at the tranny hump to jack up the tranny to remove the center crossmember, or will the hump have to be removed? Obviously with a 73 I'd like to prevent removing the hump (seats, gas tank, etc.).

I'm considering welding one "L" bracket and welding tubing through the frame and bolting the second bracket to the frame to facilitate dropping the tranny in the future.

Any suggestions?

[grant5127]

Myself,, weld the L on the left (driver) side.... the right one needs to be removable for ease in R&R trans/transfer......