H55/Splitcase into 02/79-40 Series

[Poser]

Originally Posted by chattfj40

He, he, he...

Not sure if I mentioned it before, but when they went to remove my flywheel to do the clutch on the H41/Orion install they found 3 bolts that had broken and were "glued on" Had to drill them all out. The last time the clutch was replaced was in '96...so for 10 years I've been driving around with a flywheel held on by 3 bolts....and it lasted till the clutch wore to the rivets.

BTW, the rear main on mine puked a bit on Sat after I added oil...They had told me the line bore was off during the install and to just run it and watch it...so cleaned everything up and still getting a small drip on the bearing cap after running it on the jack stands. I'm just gonna watch it for now and try my best to keep the oil hole on the fly wheel clean and see if I can keep the oil off the clutch...but looks like at some point this year (after GSMTR) I'll be rebuilding and the bottom half and maybe the whole damn thing....

got pics if anyone wants them

The guy that I spoke with at Steve's when I called to follow up on the H41/Orion told me about both of these issues, along with a couple other things...


Start a thread... " Interesting engine findings " or something....

[PabloCruise]

Wow - what a project, up until that feeling that "something was not right..."

I bet I can guess the next words out of your mouth!

[chattfj40]

misspoke a bit...no pics of the flywheel, just of the leaking main seal...might be helpful for somebody...

[Poser]

Originally Posted by PabloCruise

Wow - what a project, up until that feeling that "something was not right..."

I bet I can guess the next words out of your mouth!

Kind of funny really…You would think that something like this would have raised a person’s blood pressure A LOT; but that was not the case with me for some reason.

Lemon and I were working on this together at this point, and he noticed that I was pulling on these bolts really well and that something was not right. When the bolt snapped, it made a sound similar to the ‘click’ that the torque wrench makes when you are tight. I just chuckled and said well, that was the bolt. He said “ No, was it??” I did not cuss or anything. I just removed the other bolts, pulled the flywheel down and he center punched the broken bolt while I began scrounging for the left hand drill bit and extractor kit. I drilled the bolt and he ran the camera, and like I said earlier, I will take lucky over good any day.


We did have a couple celebratory beers after the broken bolt was out of the crank.

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Steve, why go to the trouble? why not just use a 3F bellhousing (as on 1986-87 US market FJ60s)?

Or, is it really just a minor modification, not unlike opening-up an older axle knuckle to allow fitment of later model Birfields?

Have I mentioned yet, "great thread!"

Regards,

Alan

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally Posted by Poser

So,


Sunday I was going to try and make some real progress on this...


Needed to modify the flywheel housing to work with the input bearing retainer of the H55...



Pictures show the input bearing retainer from the H55 and the areas where the flywheel housing need to be opened up. I marked those two spots with a pink paint pen, and then got after them with a 90 degree die grinder with a carbide tool. It made pretty quick work of the areas that needed to be removed.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by Josie'sLandCruiser

Hi All:

Steve, why go to the trouble? why not just use a 3F bellhousing (as on 1986-87 US market FJ60s)?

Or, is it really just a minor modification, not unlike opening-up an older axle knuckle to allow fitment of later model Birfields?

Have I mentioned yet, "great thread!"

Regards,

Alan

This was no big deal Alan, nor is opening the knuckle to fit larger birfs.


It was done in less than five minutes.


The shittiest part of doing it is getting covered in the little metal fines that end up being metal slivers in your skin. A good tweezers, just like a quality church key, are a must in the toolbox.




Thank you.



I hope that folks can learn from these pictures and threads. Most of it is not that fascinating, but the pictures are out here, and can now be used for other reference material if needed someday.

[CaliCruiser]

Man this is an excellent thread. I can apply so much of this to an upcoming project on my 60. A quick question on the oil pump mod, does this work for 2f's found in fj60's? I gather it is to improve flow and evenly wear the opposite side of the gears? Thanks

Dylan

[Poser]

Originally Posted by CaliCruiser

Man this is an excellent thread. I can apply so much of this to an upcoming project on my 60. A quick question on the oil pump mod, does this work for 2f's found in fj60's? I gather it is to improve flow and evenly wear the opposite side of the gears? Thanks

Dylan

Yes it will.



As far as I know, the oil pump in the picture should be exactly the same as what you will find in your 2F engine.



One thing on removing the Phillips head fasteners that retain the aluminum pick up and lower half of the oil pump:



I used a Snap-On #3 Phillips that has a 7/16” wrench hex on it by the handle, along with someone pushing down on the top and helping turn the fastener, as these were not going to simply come out. I also used a hammer and seated the screwdriver into the fasteners, and had to use a flat punch to try and repair/make flat again the Phillips head of one fastener in order to get them all removed. That is why I now have installed hex head fasteners when I reassembled the pump and pickup body.


If you do not own a quality screwdriver, you will want to purchase one, at the very least, a Craftsman Pro Series or something equivalent. Trying to remove these fasteners when the head is stripped would not be fun at all.



Good luck!


-Steve

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Steve, how goes the tranny swap?

What would you think would go different in this process if it was a 1978 or older FJ40?

Best,

Alan

[Poser]

So the flywheel is in and the new fasteners are torqued. Before installing the pilot bearing, I always make sure that it is a slip-fit on the end of the transmission input shaft so as to avoid any binding while installing the transmission into the clutch and flywheel housing. I just use a piece of emery cloth and lightly sand down the input shaft.
After the pilot bearing is a slip fit on the input shaft, it is then installed into the end of the crank shaft. After it is seated, I put a dab of anti-seize in the center of the pilot bearing where the input shaft will be touching it.

[Poser]

So with the pilot bearing installed, I then install the clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing. The first picture shows which side of the clutch disc is the flywheel side and the second picture shows the opposite side, or the side that faces the pressure plate/transmission when installed.

[Poser]

More after bit...this is a full three ring circus...

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by Poser

I am just going to modify the floor. I think that is far more realistic and would be applicable to others wanting to see how this is done, since the top plate for this transmission to suit a 40 series is pretty much non-existent. I have been searching for one for over a year now, and they are not that easy to come by.

I have search my entire photo ablum and I must have forgoten to take a photo of mine

But I'll explain. I cut 2 sections from the plate , one around the old holes for the gear leavers taking in the rubber boot captive nuts. The second cut I took so the first cut could be slid into it's positon and welded up, the second cut then filled the hole from the first cut and was re welded.
So I basically cut and slid one piece down and then the other piece up. There are a couple of minor bits like a corner to adjust for and so on but on the whole worked well and kept all the boot mounting geniune.

[matt.mcinnes]

You might need to put a dent in the cross member behind the tranfer case for clearence or the uni may knock and watch out for the hand brake cable it has issues with clearence and route. Also mine has but only just a slight issue with the uni binding up at full suspesion drop due to shortening the rear tail shaft, the angle gets more acute, I have however moved the rear axle back 30mm. If you have not it may be even acuter depending on you suspension set up. I may one day go to a double cardial joint. There is one other issue but this my only effect me as I drive on the other side of the road. Petrol tank also maybe an issue.



Hope this is food for thought if your not finished, I went to the 5 speed to compensate for the 4.556 diff I changed too. If you want any pics of mine just ask.

[AATLAS1X]

Originally Posted by Poser

Removed the other bolts, broke out the left handed cobalt bits, drilled the broken bolt with a small bit, and then changed to the next larger size, and that one caught the fastener and backed it up just a bit. I then tapped an extractor into the hole I had just drilled into the broken bolt and backed the broken fastener out of the end of the crankshaft.

The 1/4 ratchet pictured her http://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=56 in the bottom pic is one of the most used tools I own! I also upgraded to the new version with soft handle. For those who want a sweet wrench that is the one to own.

3/8 is next........

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by Poser

The H55/splitcase came from MAF with the mainshaft and different rear bearing retainer changed so that the parking brake from the one piece case could be used on it.


The guy that owns this truck does not intend to pound rocks with this vehicle. After the trans is installed, I will look at the skid plate and see what can be done, but as of right now, he does not see the need for a 40MPH rock rated skid plate. There will be something under there protecting this though.

The gearbox wont fit with the drum parking brake on no room you need the later a model rear hand brake hope this dont burst someones bubble

My Skid plate is from a 60 series cut down the center and re welded cheap and easy.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

The gearbox wont fit with the drum parking brake on no room you need the later a model rear hand brake hope this dont burst someones bubble

My Skid plate is from a 60 series cut down the center and re welded cheap and easy.

Not so fast there Aussie...

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by Poser

Not so fast there Aussie...

You altered the cross member then?

Come on fess up I'm intrigued

[Poser]

So now is when the fun starts. I had to lower the engine to get the trans and tcase slid home, that is why I had to use two hoists; one to support the engine and one for the trans and tcase assembly.


I am going to be using a late model cross member, however, temporarily for fitment testing and so that I can roll the truck around by hand, I have the front engine mounts back on and secure, and the rear brackets are secure on the flywheel housing, but are just set on the frame.

This truck is not going to see hard core off road trails, so the fact that the trans and tcase are sitting an inch and a half lower than they would be is of no real consequence.


Things are tight, but everything fits, and the rear drive shaft angle, even with a 4 inch HFS lift and 1 inch longer shackles is fine, and would still be if the drive train was raised up to a stock location.



Let me get a couple pics up

[Poser]

More...

[Poser]

More....

[Poser]

More.....


That dark 'thing' is the fuel tank.....Close.

[Poser]

Drive shaft just pinned...It will need to be shortened just bit....no biggie.

[Poser]

Goofer puck is back on....WCHA Final Five.... OT.


Back in a bit.





They just beat the ND Sioux in OT!!!