Oh God, what have I done now!!???

F-junker · 02-11-07, 06:44 PM

I clearanced my driveshaft as I had a rubbing sound after indexing the output flange and the rear end to zero degrees. I had a vibration around 30 mph and up. I thought it was balance, then found out about the indexing and also about the degree shims I needed in the rear (no cardan joint).

So, OH SHIT, I drove it today. sounds like the ass end is going to chew it self up. It has a powertrax locker installed (SEVERAL TIMES I MIGHT ADD). I thought I had a rubbing of the driveshaft joints but am beginning to worry it's something else. IE the locker. It seemed to work fine before I dropped the rear reshackled (lower) and shimmed the pumpkin back down to make my driveline angles match. Grease fittings on the driveshft are pointed up with each other

I'm getting frustrated with this damn thing. I'm so freakin close it's not even funny but now up against another wall. thumping gets louder under accel and deceleration.

with the ass-end up off the ground a few inches and the truck in gear running I see no interference and hear no noise!!!????

The locker seems to make a little noise but only when first turned. In the past it was not a problem. I'm so close to calling up my friend Dr. 338 Mag and having him try to "fix the problem">

Help me please!!!! Could the shaft be too short??? I hope this is another stupid question.

Mace · 02-11-07, 06:47 PM

take a pic please..

Also, why clearance your rear shaft?

grant5127 · 02-11-07, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-junker

I clearanced my driveshaft as I had a rubbing sound after indexing the output flange and the rear end to zero degrees. I had a vibration around 30 mph and up. I thought it was balance, then found out about the indexing and also about the degree shims I needed in the rear (no cardan joint).

So, OH SHIT, I drove it today. sounds like the ass end is going to chew it self up. It has a powertrax locker installed (SEVERAL TIMES I MIGHT ADD). I thought I had a rubbing of the driveshaft joints but am beginning to worry it's something else. IE the locker. It seemed to work fine before I dropped the rear reshackled (lower) and shimmed the pumpkin back down to make my driveline angles match. Grease fittings on the driveshft are pointed up with each other

I'm getting frustrated with this damn thing. I'm so freakin close it's not even funny but now up against another wall. thumping gets louder under accel and deceleration.

with the ass-end up off the ground a few inches and the truck in gear running I see no interference and hear no noise!!!????

The locker seems to make a little noise but only when first turned. In the past it was not a problem. I'm so close to calling up my friend Dr. 338 Mag and having him try to "fix the problem">

Help me please!!!! Could the shaft be too short??? I hope this is another stupid question.

Did this all come about after a 4" lift ?? as I recall reading last month??

F-junker · 02-11-07, 07:57 PM

Mace- I'll see what I do about the pictures. I clearnced them as I thought the rubbing or thunking was the driveshaft and u-joints. Now I'm not sure WTF is going on. the driveshaft measurement I took from the bottom output bolt to the bottom rear drive flange (bolts) and came up with about 22 & 3/4", the difference in height about 8-9". I didn't have my clinometer to measure the angle tonight.

GRANT5127-the truck came with the lift, spring brand unknown (both spring ends double miltary wrapped, vague white stenciled numbers on the tops). The shackles on this thing where very tall, I replaced them with shorter confer units.

A little history on this thing, it's a rebuilt rolling basket case. And a reall pain in the ass. I can't see how this thing ever drove right with these springs. Maybe it never did. It's mostly 1978 truck, 2F and factory driveline. I got four driveshafts with this thing. I used the one that best fit for the rear end. I thought maybe I could have messed somethme up with the rear locker because there seems to be a bit of play in the pinion with the tires on the ground; I can turn it and the locker seems kinda clunky. I can feel a small amount of play in the gears but only a very small amount.

I just can't seem to figure out which is the problem the locker or the shaft!! I just can't replace both. It's one or the other... which freakin one though!!! I'ts been over a year of solid work almost every weekend in the rain heat and cold (no garage) and I just wan to drive this f@#$%r.

gladly · 02-11-07, 08:16 PM

couldn't you just chuck in one of the other driveshafts that came with it?

to getting it done soon! at this point it kinda sounds like building a truck from spare parts would have been an easier option for you

F-junker · 02-11-07, 08:20 PM

I think the other shafts are too short or too long... can't remember off the top of my head. I don't mind spending a few hundred buck for a driveshaft that's right. IF it fixes the problem. I'm concerned it could be the F'n rearend/ locker, frankly it's been a real PITA since I rebuilt the rear (new axle seals and bearings).

65swb45 · 02-11-07, 10:49 PM

Uh, maybe you're overthinking this. Try taking the pinion shims back out to point the pinion back up towards the transfer case, JUST TO SEE WHAT HAPPENS!

I have a hunch you will be pleasantly surprised.

Best

Mark A.

Mark W · 02-12-07, 12:37 AM

Back this truck up here.

What grease fittings are lined up with each other?

There is only one grease fitting on the shaft. The other two are on the ujoints and their positioning doesn't mean a thing.

You have to have the ears of the shaft aligned. With each other. Not with the ears on the flange that bolts to the compaonion flange (other side of the Ujoint).

Bet ya a dollar that your shaft is out of phase.

Mark...

shelfboy1 · 02-12-07, 05:24 AM

i agree with 65 swb but you could try taking out the rear shaft and driving it in fornt wheel drive and see if it still makes the noise that should narrow it down for you also line up the ujoints so there the same on each end keep at it and good luck

matt.mcinnes · 02-12-07, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F-junker

Grease fittings on the driveshft are pointed up with each other

I'm with Mark W here, sound like you split the tail shaft and put it back together out of phase.

Take it out and run in 4x4 with the front hubs in if you have no noise its very unlikly to be the diff.

If it is out of phase and you did not mark it when you removed it then you need to get it back in phase, not sure if this is something you can do or if you need to get it reset and balanced.

Mark W · 02-12-07, 11:22 AM

No need to "reset" or balance or anything like that. Just put it back together in the correct alignment.

Mark...

matt.mcinnes · 02-12-07, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark W

No need to "reset" or balance or anything like that. Just put it back together in the correct alignment.

Mark...

How do you do that if you did not mark it, as I think if he had marked it he would not have this problem.

F-junker · 02-12-07, 11:47 AM

Thanks guys. I will run her in Front Wheel drive mode today. The driveshaft phase I'm a little hard understanding, Remember this thing came in pieces. I don't know if the shaft was right or wrong. I'm trying to understand exactly how it shoud go back together "in Phase"...???

Mark W · 02-12-07, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

How do you do that if you did not mark it, as I think if he had marked it he would not have this problem.

Like I mentioned above, you just put the two halves of the shaft back together so that the "ears" at each end which the ujoints attach to, are lined up.

I have come across a cople of Toyota driveshafts which were imperfect enough that it matter which way you put it together. (There are two position, 180 degrees from each other, when the ears are aligned). Normally it makes no difference. In a couple of the dozens of shafts I have lenghtened or shortened, we found that there was a tiny out of true condition if the stub shaft was reversed. Very minor and most folks would not even notice the effect..

Anyway, line the ears up straight with each other and the shaft is "in phase". It is actually the ujoints that you are phasing. You want them to be deflecting at the same time as the shaft rotates. Otherwise you will have vibration. The most common mistake it to line up the ears one one end of the shaft with the ears on the other side of the ujoint at the other end of the shaft. This will give you ujoints that are 90 degreees out of phase. Worst possible configuration and usually cause very bad vibration. Especially in a lifted rig.

Mark...

Full_Throttle · 02-12-07, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark W

Like I mentioned above, you just put the two halves of the shaft back together so that the "ears" at each end which the ujoints attach to, are lined up.

I have come across a cople of Toyota driveshafts which were imperfect enough that it matter which way you put it together. (There are two position, 180 degrees from each other, when the ears are aligned). Normally it makes no difference. In a couple of the dozens of shafts I have lenghtened or shortened, we found that there was a tiny out of true condition if the stub shaft was reversed. Very minor and most folks would not even notice the effect..

Anyway, line the ears up straight with each other and the shaft is "in phase". It is actually the ujoints that you are phasing. You want them to be deflecting at the same time as the shaft rotates. Otherwise you will have vibration. The most common mistake it to line up the ears one one end of the shaft with the ears on the other side of the ujoint at the other end of the shaft. This will give you ujoints that are 90 degreees out of phase. Worst possible configuration and usually cause very bad vibration. Especially in a lifted rig.

Mark...

Mark,
Is there any way to post up a pic that shows what you are talking about? I am having a hard time understanding...partly because I am at work and cannot go look at my cruiser, and partly 'cause I B ignorant on driveshafts...

Thanks

John Smith · 02-12-07, 12:27 PM

Since a picture is worth a thousand words even when small and of bad quality.
You want the ears with the red dots to be perfectly aligned. This is a really good link I found all about driveshafts from Dana Corp. http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

surfpig · 02-12-07, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Smith

Since a picture is worth a thousand words even when small and of bad quality.
You want the ears with the red dots to be perfectly aligned. This is a really good link I found all about driveshafts from Dana Corp. http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

Beat me to it...

F-junker · 02-12-07, 01:34 PM

Well my fellow mudder's you've possibly solved my problems once again. I'm headed to the shop and on my way I'll pick up a box of shells in case it's still problematic!!!

I'll check in here tonight with my results. Mnay thanks

F-junker · 02-12-07, 06:50 PM

Well Problem solved...Mostly.

I put the drive shaft in phase, wow, world of difference. Problem is under heavy breaking is sounds like the shaft is binding. I have approximately a 25 degree angle on the driveshaft. Flanges have an identical angle approx 90 degrees. With lift and minor lift shackles maybe a total of 5.5" of lift.

The rear end still sounds loud to me. Would a power trax locker increase the noise in the rear? I'm think of: pulling out the shim and having two different angles and just dealing with it. I think this is the wrong way to do it. Maybe I should try a 4 deg shim instead of a 6? That's a lot of work for two degree though.

I thinking also about pulling the third member and having it checked out. Total PITA but maybe worth it.

I would like to know if you all think a DC joint driveshaft would be the ticket here for the angle issue. AND IMPORTANTLY!! WHO DO I BUY IT FROM????

F-junker · 02-12-07, 06:52 PM

Oh yeah, What is it going to cost??? I need the shaft to be about 22-23" long. I would like a nice one but I do not really want to spend 500 bucks either.
Thanks a mill for the input.