ROTW-Bull 1979 FJ40

[bull]

THE VEHICLE

Nickname: Colonel Mustard
04/1979 FJ40
Desmogged 2F
Stock Transmission
Stock Transfer Case
3.73 Gearing
Disc Front
Drum Rear
Manual Steering


Here it is before it all began







Starting with the rear discs and locker. Loosened all the 14mm bolts and popped the cover to drain the fluid. Installed an aussie locker in the rear. The C clip is a pain in the arse, but you can use a popsicle stick or a large paper clip to help you. Remember to take your time and have lots of rags handy. I used a small screwdriver to compress the springs as I installed them.

Photo of the spider gears. The red stuff is grease to hold everyting together


Here it is fully installed.



Installed an Non-ABS 80 series master cylinder. I had to remove the proportioning valve and cut and flare the existing lines. I may have to plumb an adjustable proportioning valve to compensate for the rears. We shall see once the larger tires, cage, and armor are on the vehicle.






Removed the axles during the locker install. Pulled of the nasty rear drums and backing plates. There was a nasty mix of brake fluid and gear oil. Replaced the axle seal and attached the bracket facing towards the front of the vehicle

Nasty



much better

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overkill rotors and monte carlo brakes. It is what the kit came with...




Here is the engine bay while I installed the OEM Power steering. I had to remove the radiator to put in the OEM cooler lines.




Cooler lines attached to the frame and run under the radiator



Here is the used OEM power steering installed




The OEM steering shaft for the power steeing set up is a tad shorter so I had to swap out the shafts

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Metal Tech Roll Cage Install


Picked up the family cage at the local freight depot. Everything was banded together nicely with red end caps on all the larger pieces. I was very impressed with everything and it was still in pieces.

I had to unbolt the existing rear seats, rear seat belts, OEM rollbar and remove the tire tools that are attached there.

Seats out



Removed roll bar.




Here is the first bracket. Quality cut and pre-drilled holes using existing rollbar attachment points. Note the curve goes towards the rear and points inboard.

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Closer shot of the pre-drilled slots




Using original hardware to hold it in place. All new hardware will be bought to attach it. Note the lines on the curved part. I drew a grid so I could square up the C pillar.




Note the C pillar isn't as wide as the B pillar. The C pillar is also angled towards the front of the vehicle so that the hard top can fit




Have an extra set of hands and a magnetic level help you square up the C pillar. The grid I wrote on the base plates made it very easy.


Here is the C pillar tacked to the base plate




Here is the other side tacked into place. Take your time lining it up.

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B pillar glued in now. Used the same grid method. Note the magnetic level on the drivers sided B pillar





A pillar base plate. Some have notched this plate so that it can sits around the corner. Since I'm using the front frame tie in plates I'm going with it like this. The plate is angled along the lines of the lower door sill. Note the lovely sound deading material. Holds in moisture you cannot see





Cutting the sound deading material with a die grinder, chisel, and hammer. It came up pretty easy. I wanted to make sure I had metal on metal.




B pillar glued in now. Used the same grid method. Note the magnetic level on the drivers sided B pillar





A pillar base plate. Some have notched this plate so that it can sits around the corner. Since I'm using the front frame tie in plates I'm going with it like this. The plate is angled along the lines of the lower door sill. Note the lovely sound deading material. Holds in moisture you cannot see





Cutting the sound deading material with a die grinder, chisel, and hammer. It came up pretty easy. I wanted to make sure I had metal on metal.

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Sound deading crap removed. Virgin floor board. The metal ion the 79 is very thin. A frame tie in is a must. The upper hole is the body mount and the lower hole is a drain hole that is starting to corrode.




Bolted the base plate down and set the A pillar in place. No neat tricks here. I think the 79 tubs are different so I had to move the A pillar around a bit to get it all to line up. I had to account for the windshield knob, thickness of the hard doors and dash pads. Take your time here. Measure and do it again. Note the A pillar bar isn't in the correct position in this photo.





Here is where I have the A pillar attaching to the B pillar. I think it is lower than what I have seen on MTs website, but I didn't like the way it sat when it was higher up on the B pillar. Plus I have extra spreaders I can use up front. I used a grinder with a cutting wheel and a seperate grinder to notch the fish mouths. Takes literally 4 minutes once you have the bar marked.





Profile photo of the A pillar it clears everything and I'm very impressed with the way the tube wraps around the dash.

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Here is the profile pic. Ignore the loose tubes on the seat. I like MTs signature up and around the dash. Que bueno!




Driver side A pillar installed.




Another photo. I measured from the base of the B pillar up to the A to B joint to match the passenger side. I also used the level.

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This has been my little buddy through all this. Chop saw has saved some time.




Connected the B and C pillars together. It took some time to get the fishmouths (notches) correct. They angle inboard from the B pillar towards the C pillar


The A B and C pillars connected. Along with the spreader bar between the A pillars. It has taken some time to get all the joints correctly. A ton of grinding etc.

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Made some more progress yesterday





Compound corners suck..

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I was going to follow the front spreaders all the way back to the cargo, but decided to go the angle route. Should I put one down the center between the center or would that be overkill?









The compound corners have taken some time to get right. Take your time and get the joints to line up.

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Rear cargo tube added. Started from the top lip of the body and angled it back at 40 degrees.





I put the handles up high. Didn't like them down low.




Here is the other cargo area spreader.

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Winch and winch bumper mounted. Replacing the wincline. The winch is a Warn 8375. Made in 1973 and parts interchange with an 8274. The only difference is that the 8375 doesn't allow you to free spool. I only have an in and out option.

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Here are a few pics with my size 14s. No interference with the clutch - leg angle. I can also shut my doors without hitting the cage. It took me about 40 minutes total getting the A pillar attach points in the right place.

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Outside photos

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Here are some poser usage photos.

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I installed an OME 2.5 lift and added some 34" LTBs. They had to use "equal" balancing powder to tame them a bit.

[Draken]

Dang Bull,

You've really transformed the mustard one since I saw it at your BBQ last year. It's looking very nice!!!

Did you have the Olive one back then too or is that a recent pickup?

Great Job!!!

Roger

[bull]

Originally Posted by Draken

Dang Bull,

You've really transformed the mustard one since I saw it at your BBQ last year. It's looking very nice!!!

Did you have the Olive one back then too or is that a recent pickup?

Great Job!!!

Roger

Yeah been busy on it! The olive was at the BBQ too. Thanks

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More shots after the suspension

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Racing a FJ down I90

[1phrogguy]

definately one of the coolest rigs I have seen. Love that brown 40 too. Great job with the new cage. I am jealous.

[Volunteer]

Originally Posted by 1phrogguy

definately one of the coolest rigs I have seen. Love that brown 40 too. Great job with the new cage. I am jealous.

Awesome job it looks great. I'll paypal some money for your time if I can get a nice 8 - 10 MP picture of all your rigs in a group shot. You have an awesome stable of cruisers from what I see in the background. Your my idol. It would look awesome to blow that up and put it in my shop.

[90 Weight]

wow sweet rig!