[matt.mcinnes]

Old and new cam gears, the new one been Genuine Toyota with a bonded resin for better harmonics.

[badass]

Very nice, got a question,

what model garrett turbo did you use?

How much was it in US dollars?

is this turbo well suited for just a regular old 2f or is it overkill?

Also is it oil and water cooled or only oil cooled?

Is the intercooler necessary?

Thanks.

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by badass

Very nice, got a question,

what model garrett turbo did you use?

How much was it in US dollars?

is this turbo well suited for just a regular old 2f or is it overkill?

Also is it oil and water cooled or only oil cooled?

Is the intercooler necessary?

Thanks.

The Turbo has to provide enough air to the engine so the correct Turbo is very important if you want the best from it. So either A GT30 or GT35 with a suitable compressor housing. The GT28 is a touch on the small side, my 2c. Too small and it will run worse, too big and you have too much lag, the way the turbo's boost comes in depends on your choice and what variation it comes in too.

No easy answer.

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...oducts_id=1025

There are quite a few around the correct size but in various guises depending on where you want your power. Plenty of various opinions too. I'm not looking for top end speed but out and out acceleration so the GT3082R with an .63 exhaust housing means it will spool up the large 82R compressor pretty quick if my clacs are correct. But until it's on the Dyno I will not know for sure if its just perfect.

I paid $1585 USD for mine water cooled and oil fed and is suited to a regular 2F or my 2FE though mine may rev a little harder so this may effect choice in regards to the compressor housing been smaller maybe perhaps a 71R or a 76R on a GT 30 the GT3582R is a little on the overkill side but if you wanted to go nuts.

This Turbo Calc is pretty easy to use http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html

Intercoolers help but you can get by without at lower boost pressure.

[matt.mcinnes]

My turbo calcs, these maybe incorrect

9PSI
650 RPM 50CFM 5 Lb/PerMin
1000RPM 76CFM 8 Lb/PerMin
1500RPM 114CFM 12 Lb/PerMin
2000RPM 152CFM 15 Lb/PerMin
2500RPM 191CFM 20 Lb/PerMin
3000RPM 228CFM 24 Lb/PerMin
3500RPM 267CFM 27 Lb/PerMin
4000RPM 305CFM 32 Lb/PerMin
4500RPM 343CFM 35 Lb/PerMin
5000RPM 380CFM 40 Lb/PerMin
5500RPM 419CFM 43 Lb/PerMin

15PSI

The CFM remains constant but Lb/PerMin incresses with as you cram more air in
6LbPer/Min
9 Lb/PerMin
14 Lb/PerMin
20 Lb/PerMin
25 Lb/PerMin
29 Lb/PerMin
35 Lb/PerMin
40 Lb/PerMin
45 Lb/PerMin
49 Lb/PerMin
55 Lb/PerMin

A stock 2F will use just under the above CFM as mine is now just over 4300cc but pretty close.

[matt.mcinnes]

More clacs done.

Pressure ratio I have calculated are @9PSI 1.78 and @ 15PSI 2.3

These are the compressor maps from Garrett for the GT30R exhaust side and the GT3582R for the compressor side.

Garrett don't actually list the GT3082R or have a compressor map for it most of the others are covered on their web site.

So I would take a guess that the GT3082R will spool up like the GT3582R on the compressor side producing a very similar compressor map, except with the GT30 Exhaust housing in .63 it will spool up a little sooner than the GT35 shifting the map down the graph a little.

If I have worked these things out correctly the Turbo @9PSI should spool up from 1500RPM and be at full boost by 2500RPM @ 15PSI 1000RPM and be at full boost by 2000RPM

Compressor map for a 82R 0.70A/R



Exhaust Turbine GT30 0.63A/R

[matt.mcinnes]

The block is now honed and cross hatched. Tomorrow sees the O-rings machined into the head.



The head gasket is in and no longer copper, it's now graphite, this is due to the consensus that the head bolts are just too far apart to guarantee a copper gasket sealing the oil and water.

Head bolts are now to be studs and 1/2" UNF the block will be Helicoiled/Recoiled to suit. By ARP

[stereophile33]

have you considered eyebrowing the cylinders to match the head, so there isnt fuel pooling on the ledge?

The BBC guys used to have to do this if the head bore was larger than the piston bore.

[Teebag]

Matt, when are you going to stop teasing us, and start bolting this thing back together.

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by stereophile33

have you considered eyebrowing the cylinders to match the head, so there isnt fuel pooling on the ledge?

The BBC guys used to have to do this if the head bore was larger than the piston bore.

Doing this I would take lowers compression slighly too, if I understand correctly. By eyebrowning you mean to angle slightly the edge up to the flame ring, outside the cylinder bore, so that fuel has nowhere to pool.
This would give you a cleaner burn I guess, power gains?

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by Teebag

Matt, when are you going to stop teasing us, and start bolting this thing back together.

The old 2F comes out Jan 2 2008

The new 2F will have its final day of machining tomorrow. The cradle is cadded and ready to be made just awaiting on the over due steel but fingers crossed it will be deilivered on time by the end of the 1st week of Jan if not the end of this week.

Then it's time to start bolting it together at long last. The build I have allowed 2 months for including testing. Our first comp is due to be 8,9,10th March. Round the Engel challenge.

So were getting pretty close.

[Teebag]

look forward to it

[Trollhole]

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

Old and new cam gears, the new one been Genuine Toyota with a bonded resin for better harmonics.

You think that bonded rubber cam gear is going to be able to handle 400 hp?

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by Trollhole

You think that bonded rubber cam gear is going to be able to handle 400 hp?

The 3 options were discussed solid, bonded and the later 3F Nylon Gear. The bonded one been the best, if everything is maintained and in good order there should be no issue.

But if not it OK you can all learn by my leason

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by stereophile33

have you considered eyebrowing the cylinders to match the head, so there isnt fuel pooling on the ledge?

The BBC guys used to have to do this if the head bore was larger than the piston bore.

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

Doing this I would take lowers compression slighly too, if I understand correctly. By eyebrowning you mean to angle slightly the edge up to the flame ring, outside the cylinder bore, so that fuel has nowhere to pool.
This would give you a cleaner burn I guess, power gains?

Well the block finally made it to the last stage, the heads been skimmed true and just the O-ring to add when I called in today. The O-rings will match the flame ring on the graphite gasket. The wire to make the O-ring is 40thou.

Also the the cylinders are to be eyebrowed, Colins good slow but good

You can also see in the photo a few extra holes in the side of the block one for the oil feed for the Turbo from the main oil gallery and 2 in the diamond to support the manifold for the Turbo.


At last the steel has turned up for the cradle 2 uprights for the new bearing caps and the top section that will bind it all together with the clearance holes laser cut for the crank to pass through.

[matt.mcinnes]

Sumps is finished just need a coat of BLACK paint (NO GEY)

The oil return has been added too for the Turbo

[matt.mcinnes]

The ARP head studs are in too, course thread is the block end going in to Helicoils and the fine thread has the ARP washers and ARP head nuts.

Part No for the studs AR5.400-12B
Part No for the nuts 300-8334
Part No for the washers 200-8534

[andrewfarmer]

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

Sumps is finished just need a coat of BLACK paint (NO GEY)

You not running baffles?

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by andrewfarmer

You not running baffles?

Baffles are still in the bottom of the sump but just out of shot.

[matt.mcinnes]

The O-rings seats in the cylinder head will be 36 Thou deep. The stainless steel wire used to crate the O-rings is 40 Thou O/D. Once the O-ring seats are machined into the block the steel wire is tapped into it leaving 4 Thou proud to seal against the flame ring when the cylinder head is clamped down.

[matt.mcinnes]

The crank is back, ground, balanced, nitrated, polished and has been cross drilled to improve oiling to main bearings.