[matt.mcinnes]

To give a little more room around the engine for the intercooler I have electer to go with a remote oil filter drilling and tapping the original holes for the oil filter in the block and running hoses from them to the remote fillter, this will also allow us to fit an oil cooler inline too. the old mounting holes for the oil filter will be used to help mount the intercooler.

[Hulsty]

Originally Posted by matt.mcinnes

Drilled and tapped the M14x1.5 thread for the air temp sensor that will run to the Wolf V500.

The Wolf V500 also has the option for electronic boost control so you can map and control the way the turbo boosts up in conjunction with the throttle position by controlling the wastegate, also stops wastegate creep.

Hey mate just a quick question about your MAT sensor, that is on the outlet of the cooler right? Ideally the sensor should be place as close as possible to the inlet valves, IE in the end of the inlet runners to the head for the most accurate air temperatures. Just some food for thought

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by Hulsty

Hey mate just a quick question about your MAT sensor, that is on the outlet of the cooler right? Ideally the sensor should be place as close as possible to the inlet valves, IE in the end of the inlet runners to the head for the most accurate air temperatures. Just some food for thought

If it's placed in the plenum it can be effected by heat rise from the engine, which intern effects hot starting, therefor the ideal spot is just prior to the butterfly on the throttle body. The original Air Temp sensor was part of the MAF sensor (not required we run a MAP sensor now). If you are running an intercooler it should be after the cooler and before the throttle body.

MAF sensor

[matt.mcinnes]

Pulled the Turbo apart today to alter the orientation of the exhaust and compressor housings.

Pretty simple just 6 bolts each side and retaining plates, once removed you just rotate the housings to suit your needs. Now the exhaust and compressor are opposite.

Compressor side 0.7



Exhaust side .063



Before and after

[watrob]

Hi Matt,

What HP do you think this motor will put out when finished?

[matt.mcinnes]

Hmmmmm see sig line


\/

[agent orange]

Im speechless, this is so friggen cool.

Maybe some day ill borrow some of the less expensive parts of this build so my 62 can get out of its own way a little bit.

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by agent orange

Im speechless, this is so friggen cool.

Maybe some day ill borrow some of the less expensive parts of this build so my 62 can get out of its own way a little bit.

Tks glad your enjoying the ride, I was looking at the first post of this thread 1st Feb 07. Would be nice if it was all completed and tuned by 1st Feb 08.

I can't believe its almost year since I started this journey

[matt.mcinnes]

Well it's been a busy afternoon, picked up the intercooler water pump



Also picked up 2 x 65mm o/d aluminum round bar 100mm long, this will be machined into the converter from the Davies Craig pump to the 8 lines for the intercooler as well as a feed for the Turbo cooling. Just a ruff idea off what I have planned, this will be machined in 2 parts one to fit the hose tail water fitting seen in the photo and the other half to match the Davies Craig outlets. Once both halves are complete they will be welded together by Awill4x4 and then welded to the intercooler. this means the water lines to the cooler are kept to minimum. Rather than having 8 water lines running around the engine bay.



Then time for a chat with the engine builder about the cradle for the crank, hmmm it seems that we need to extend the sump around 20mm for clearance. Three options here, 1st we extend the sum 20mm overall losing ground clearance and possibly interfering with the front axle when articulating (have to check). 2nd we extend the oil pan 20mm overall and then take 20mm off the rear of the pan to bring the ground clearance back, possible front axle interference and less oil capacity. 3rd we do away with the oil pan, go to a dry sump and remote oil pump, no clearance issues, no oil starvation issues at any angle, no oil pressure/feed issues with the toyota oil pump. Only issue here cost

The good news is finally started work on the block, all 6 cylinders have now been re-bored and are awaiting honing.

[matt.mcinnes]

After reading and chatting with friends we have finally decided to go with this kind of TurboSmart BOV




Sleeper

[agent orange]

This is just some random bench racing, but i wonder if there is enough meat in the bores to cant the cylinders towards the thrust face so at tdc the piston is already exerting a force on the crank.

From what i understand at the higher power levels you can pick up a modestly significant amount of power. Food for thought since this is already the no holds barred ultimate 2fe build.

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by agent orange

This is just some random bench racing, but i wonder if there is enough meat in the bores to cant the cylinders towards the thrust face so at tdc the piston is already exerting a force on the crank.

From what i understand at the higher power levels you can pick up a modestly significant amount of power. Food for thought since this is already the no holds barred ultimate 2fe build.

Please explaine

[matt.mcinnes]

Spent the evening calculating Turbo outlet temps for the Garrett GT3082R @ 70F/21C ambient and from what I can work out at 9psi the outlet temp should be around 180F/82C at 15psi the outlet temp rises to 227F/108C.

Now if the intercooler is as good as I hope we should be looking at some good results.
If I have done my math right and built a intercooler that works.

Calcs using this.
Turbocharger Compressor Calculations

Also worked out a few more bits but it's 2:15am my head hurts so you can wait until tomorrow

[matt.mcinnes]

Bill to date This does not include the head work remember



This does not include the re bore and cam which is now on order.

Cam Spec's: Duration 220 @ 0.050" with 0.430" Lift, center Line is 112 Degrees Hope that makes sense.

[trekker]

omg! That is about $9,849 in USD!

Time heals all wounds. You'll forget about the cost soon unless you have a wife that constantly reminds you!

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by trekker

omg! That is about $9,849 in USD!

Time heals all wounds. You'll forget about the cost soon unless you have a wife that constantly reminds you!

Just over $7000USD including the head for the engine build.

This does not included Turbo, ECU, Fuel System, Intercooler, Sundries the list is long and still growing

[tlc4x]

Huh? I thought you were in Oz. AU$4243 = US$3728. Still expensive but worth it if it makes you happy. Every time I read a new post here it makes me want to either do the 2FE or put the 3FE I have in my truck.

[matt.mcinnes]

Well after some long discusions with the Colin the engine builder over delays with the cradle and issues with now having to alter the sump to fit it in the idea has been canned

It looks like we are now going to replace and strengthen two of the 4 main bearing caps.

This to me is a big step backwards but Colin has are guaranteed, this will surfice, hmmmmm, and any failure due to it will be covered by him

I suppose like any great adventure it has its highs and lows, this been a real low.

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by tlc4x

Huh? I thought you were in Oz. AU$4243 = US$3728. Still expensive but worth it if it makes you happy. Every time I read a new post here it makes me want to either do the 2FE or put the 3FE I have in my truck.

So far for the engine $8328AUS/$7399USD including head, but I am $2000 in credit at the moment but not for long

Also while typing the last post I have an email from Colin, he has elected to cradle the two new main bearing caps, tying them together as this can be done without altering the sump to much. The bearing caps at each end of the sump will remain the same, one of these the one at the rear already has 4 bolts which is good news.

Feeling a little more positive now.

[stereophile33]

Originally Posted by agent orange

This is just some random bench racing, but i wonder if there is enough meat in the bores to cant the cylinders towards the thrust face so at tdc the piston is already exerting a force on the crank.

From what i understand at the higher power levels you can pick up a modestly significant amount of power. Food for thought since this is already the no holds barred ultimate 2fe build.

offsetting the wrist pins on the major thrust side does the same thing.

agent orange is trying to bring up an oft debated engine geometry question. The 2F have such a long rod to stroke ratio that the piston dwell time and piston speed at top dead center and at PCP 13* aftd is extremely slow and thus prone to pinging on turbo motors.

[matt.mcinnes]

Old and new cam gears, the new one been Genuine Toyota with a bonded resin for better harmonics.

[badass]

Very nice, got a question,

what model garrett turbo did you use?

How much was it in US dollars?

is this turbo well suited for just a regular old 2f or is it overkill?

Also is it oil and water cooled or only oil cooled?

Is the intercooler necessary?

Thanks.

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by badass

Very nice, got a question,

what model garrett turbo did you use?

How much was it in US dollars?

is this turbo well suited for just a regular old 2f or is it overkill?

Also is it oil and water cooled or only oil cooled?

Is the intercooler necessary?

Thanks.

The Turbo has to provide enough air to the engine so the correct Turbo is very important if you want the best from it. So either A GT30 or GT35 with a suitable compressor housing. The GT28 is a touch on the small side, my 2c. Too small and it will run worse, too big and you have too much lag, the way the turbo's boost comes in depends on your choice and what variation it comes in too.

No easy answer.

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_...oducts_id=1025

There are quite a few around the correct size but in various guises depending on where you want your power. Plenty of various opinions too. I'm not looking for top end speed but out and out acceleration so the GT3082R with an .63 exhaust housing means it will spool up the large 82R compressor pretty quick if my clacs are correct. But until it's on the Dyno I will not know for sure if its just perfect.

I paid $1585 USD for mine water cooled and oil fed and is suited to a regular 2F or my 2FE though mine may rev a little harder so this may effect choice in regards to the compressor housing been smaller maybe perhaps a 71R or a 76R on a GT 30 the GT3582R is a little on the overkill side but if you wanted to go nuts.

This Turbo Calc is pretty easy to use http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html

Intercoolers help but you can get by without at lower boost pressure.

[matt.mcinnes]

My turbo calcs, these maybe incorrect

9PSI
650 RPM 50CFM 5 Lb/PerMin
1000RPM 76CFM 8 Lb/PerMin
1500RPM 114CFM 12 Lb/PerMin
2000RPM 152CFM 15 Lb/PerMin
2500RPM 191CFM 20 Lb/PerMin
3000RPM 228CFM 24 Lb/PerMin
3500RPM 267CFM 27 Lb/PerMin
4000RPM 305CFM 32 Lb/PerMin
4500RPM 343CFM 35 Lb/PerMin
5000RPM 380CFM 40 Lb/PerMin
5500RPM 419CFM 43 Lb/PerMin

15PSI

The CFM remains constant but Lb/PerMin incresses with as you cram more air in
6LbPer/Min
9 Lb/PerMin
14 Lb/PerMin
20 Lb/PerMin
25 Lb/PerMin
29 Lb/PerMin
35 Lb/PerMin
40 Lb/PerMin
45 Lb/PerMin
49 Lb/PerMin
55 Lb/PerMin

A stock 2F will use just under the above CFM as mine is now just over 4300cc but pretty close.

[matt.mcinnes]

More clacs done.

Pressure ratio I have calculated are @9PSI 1.78 and @ 15PSI 2.3

These are the compressor maps from Garrett for the GT30R exhaust side and the GT3582R for the compressor side.

Garrett don't actually list the GT3082R or have a compressor map for it most of the others are covered on their web site.

So I would take a guess that the GT3082R will spool up like the GT3582R on the compressor side producing a very similar compressor map, except with the GT30 Exhaust housing in .63 it will spool up a little sooner than the GT35 shifting the map down the graph a little.

If I have worked these things out correctly the Turbo @9PSI should spool up from 1500RPM and be at full boost by 2500RPM @ 15PSI 1000RPM and be at full boost by 2000RPM

Compressor map for a 82R 0.70A/R



Exhaust Turbine GT30 0.63A/R

[matt.mcinnes]

The block is now honed and cross hatched. Tomorrow sees the O-rings machined into the head.



The head gasket is in and no longer copper, it's now graphite, this is due to the consensus that the head bolts are just too far apart to guarantee a copper gasket sealing the oil and water.

Head bolts are now to be studs and 1/2" UNF the block will be Helicoiled/Recoiled to suit. By ARP

[stereophile33]

have you considered eyebrowing the cylinders to match the head, so there isnt fuel pooling on the ledge?

The BBC guys used to have to do this if the head bore was larger than the piston bore.

[Teebag]

Matt, when are you going to stop teasing us, and start bolting this thing back together.

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by stereophile33

have you considered eyebrowing the cylinders to match the head, so there isnt fuel pooling on the ledge?

The BBC guys used to have to do this if the head bore was larger than the piston bore.

Doing this I would take lowers compression slighly too, if I understand correctly. By eyebrowning you mean to angle slightly the edge up to the flame ring, outside the cylinder bore, so that fuel has nowhere to pool.
This would give you a cleaner burn I guess, power gains?

[matt.mcinnes]

Originally Posted by Teebag

Matt, when are you going to stop teasing us, and start bolting this thing back together.

The old 2F comes out Jan 2 2008

The new 2F will have its final day of machining tomorrow. The cradle is cadded and ready to be made just awaiting on the over due steel but fingers crossed it will be deilivered on time by the end of the 1st week of Jan if not the end of this week.

Then it's time to start bolting it together at long last. The build I have allowed 2 months for including testing. Our first comp is due to be 8,9,10th March. Round the Engel challenge.

So were getting pretty close.