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#31 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Luis Obispo, Ca
Posts: 193
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I think what mountain cruiser is trying to say is that in comparison the new aluminum tub due to its increased thickness is just as if not stronger. The main thing to worry about using aluminum is changes due to temperature. Al is has a much stronger reaction to changes in temperature than steel. Assuming that the tub is made of 5052 Al it has a modulus of Elasticity of roughly 10thousand Ksi. This is rather hard, but compare that to steel which is at roughly 2900ksi depending on what you choose. Now stress and strain within the material varies "linearly" for a portion of loading. It is possible to have something made of aluminum be just as strong as something from steel if the changes in dimensions are adequite. Either way though it comes down to the fact that it is a cruiser. It's meant to be beat on and the tub comes down to your choice. Will the aluminum stand up to a beating. Yes, it will. It's all arguing a deaf point here folks. In terms of strength and durability both steel and Al tubs are going to last you quite a while. Its preference after that.
If my cruiser were in worse shape rust wise I would go for the Al tub. But, thats me and mine is by no means going to be a show rig. __________________ 1974 FJ40 Penelope, beat up stocker, FJ60 knuckles. 2001 Silverado step side 2008 Giant Trance X2 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport |
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#32 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: absolutely surrounded by V
Posts: 336
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TLC is using aluminium tubs on their Icons which is something to consider. I'm sure Johnathan chose Aluminum for a good reason and the Icons are built in SoCal where rust is not really an issue.
Of course I've never gotten around to asking where they get their steel body parts from for their restorations. Or if I did, I forgot. I had been unable to decide between aluminum and steel tubs too when I get around to rebuilding my 72 FJ40 (which I had planned to restart this spring). However my wife being pregnant with quadruplets decided I'll be using the original tub, as is, unless I want to have to wait another 20 years (it's been sitting for almost 10 now). |
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#33 | |||||
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Cruiser Curmudgeon
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__________________ Thanks, Jim C. TLC Performance Underhood Janitor, cleaning up other people's since 1988. |
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#34 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 24
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Well I have now heard about steel, AL, and glass, heres what I got from it: (i might have left some things out)
Steel: First of.... its steel! strong stuff O.M.E. tub material flex line no warping no heat temp changes to deal with fits great but....... it RUSTS Expensive The place its sold is not near me Glass: Light Cheapest of two Gozzards are marine grade and strong fits good doesn't RUST the vendor is in Canada but....... Its not metal If you get hit..... it breakes off not as strong can't weld onto it cracking happens May be too light AL: Strong tubs A good fit in some cases kind of weldable DOESN'T RUST Marine grade cheaper than steel Strong Seems like it has a good rep. The vendor is in canada comes with a nice little video But..... It warps (kind of) you get a box crowl not to flexy wierd temp. changing side effects (if i read right) bad fit in some cases So I am puzzled, I wont go with glass (can't bring myself to do it) So steel and AL are the two i have to decide on. It's a hard choice but I am leaning towards the AL because I will never ever have to deal with the rust again, tub wise. Although it does have some flaws. But steel is just too rust friendly and expensive. But i'm still deciding. Please keep your comments up, I like to hear what everyone has to say about the subject, i'm learning a lot and it's helping me make my decision. I use to mine up and over in the northwest territories and in Alberta but now I am still deciding if i should move back with my family to Ontario or go back to Alberta. I'm currently located in Manitoba. thanks guys |
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#35 |
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EH!
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada
Posts: 218
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I've had my al tub for about 12 year now and its still like new. I've had to weld 1 seem and that's it. That's with a lot of wheeling. I am not easy on truck it get a good beating. I recommend to under coat the bottom and rhino coat the inside to eliminate some road noise and also help with insolating. I give al 2 thumbs up. |
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#36 |
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IH8MUD Regular
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I also have aqualu fj45 tub and bed and agree with the incredible strength.
I watched a line drive baseball strike it in mid panel....no dent. I also saw an aqualu CJ that had rolled in MOAB with minimal damage. to even the windshield frame. the MIG welded seams do stand out with glossy paint, so plan on spending some time working on them or use low gloss paint. no biggy. aluminum can corrode, so use heavy undercoating on the underside and stainless hardware. |
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#37 |
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IH8MUD Junior
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well, i have an aluminum tub and it's great
dont mind the boxy trans hump 8 degrees f here this morning and it didn't shrink ![]() no rust no cracks __________________ 78 FJ40 74 Alfa Romeo GTV 01 Jaguar XJ8 07 Sequoia 08 Boxster |
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#38 |
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IH8MUD Regular
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If you think the glass tub is light
Go pick up a glass truck cap and then pick up a al truck cap. I have had my Aqualu tub for ten years now and had no problems what so ever. Just my .02 __________________ "The world is full of kings and queens who will blind your eyes and steal your dreams." (RJD) HERE LIES THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA BORN JULY 4 1776 DIED NOV 4 2008 |
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#39 |
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IH8MUD Addict
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I think that the cold shrinkage is a non issue. we get real cold (-40 and colder) up here, and the tub has been on for at least ten years with no issues
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#40 |
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IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Luis Obispo, Ca
Posts: 193
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Sorry about the temp explanation I should have been more clear. All metals react and change size dependant on temperature. Even though Al is more reactive to temp change it wont be noticable in the tub. By eye you won't be able to tell. The temperature change would have to be rather drastic as well in order to get a noticable change. All my metal experiances come from my structural analysis classes and the changes in length from temperature were always done with an added load onto the material and it still deflected less than a quarter inch. Most of which is from loading. So, in other words an Al tub is just fine in most any temperature range. Unless you plan on hanging about a 3 tons off your tub at a single point.
__________________ 1974 FJ40 Penelope, beat up stocker, FJ60 knuckles. 2001 Silverado step side 2008 Giant Trance X2 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport |
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#41 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,053
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__________________ Toyota still builds real Cruisers. They sell them overseas. |
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#42 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 57
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I installed an aqualu tub/fenders/running boards about 7 years ago, and immediately had the whole cruiser painted. I think compared to the steel tubs they will almost end rust woes. I say almost because aluminum to steel leaves us with dissimilar metal corrossion problems. Yes sicaflex the heck out of it and shove in a stainless steel bolt. What this does is separates original steel from aluminum with the sicaflex barrier then we join it up again with the bolt. Most areas around where ever I had an aluminum to steel joint sicaflexed with a stanless steel bolt started to bubble the paint on the aluminum after about a year. I now have my curiser completely frame off and sanding through the bubbles I find a white rust like residue for lack of a better term aluminum rust, that will shed your paint. Don't get my message here wrong, I am keeping the aluminum tub and would buy another in a heart beat however I am looking for feedback from others as to how to prevent this corrosion from appearing again a year or so after my next paint job. Other than this problem the purchase of an aqualu tub is a no brainer, strong, light and even with the aluminum rust compared to steel we will probably never live long enough to see it deteriorate to the point of complete rust through.
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#43 |
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IH8MUD Regular
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the white rust, or dust is from electrolysis. I haven't had any noted in 2 years. but I didn't paint the hardware, I painted everything separate and made a lot of plastic washers out of milk jugs to further insulate. the stainless hardware has turned a little dull but no problems with flaking of paint
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#44 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SW Kansas
Posts: 63
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I live in SW Kansas, and am also in the hunt for a new tub. I'm curious though about the fitment with a stock hardtop. I like the look of the hardtop, and keep it on usually in the summer as well. It seems I've read somewhere on mud that the aqualu tub fits kinda different though. Not so sure about the heritage tubs though. Does anyone have any real world experiance with the hardtop fitment to the two tubs?
__________________ Late '74 FJ-40 (4spd) 2F from FJ-60 4 Wheel Disks Mean Green Starter 'cept for that.....mostly stock. |
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#45 |
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FineWynsFJ55
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 709
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Take a look at my FJ40 http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/123463-yet-another-finished-1974-fj40.html I have the stock hard top and Aqualu aluminum tub. The aluminum tub has been on for 3 years now. I had a guy do the painting for me, properly prepped and painted, used stainless hardware, and this past summer finished the hard top assembly and installation. The dissimilar metal corrosion problem actually is not a factor, aluminum and steel have been joined uninsulated so many times over history without a hitch. Your transfercase housing is aluminum, but the hardware and stuff it mounts to is regular steel, uninsulated from the Al. The stainless is more of a rust-prevention measure. Trust me, I know my metals! Mating the tub to frame is not that bad, for everything on an FJ40 has some sort of 'fudge factor' to it, and this was no different. Assembling the hard top on the tub was interesting, but everything now fits and seals 99% (nothing is ever truly 100% on a Land Cruiser...) I would do the Aqualu tub again in a heartbeat, everything is simple and straightforward on it. You won't be let down with it, I am completely satisfied with it. And for the finish of it, after being properly prepped, primed, and painted, it will look great with the rest of your cruiser. You could whack it with a hammer and not really put a dent in it so much as just scratch the paint. Steel is a very viable option for the 100% purist, but for the other 99% of us the aluminum is pretty much a wonderful way to go. This comes with the Al bias, as I have not seen or experienced a Gozzard tub, I'm merely sharing my experience and thoughts on the aluminum tub. Cheers, and good luck!!
Brian __________________ ~ Two paths diverged in the woods, and I, I engaged my front axle and took the path less travelled ~ 1974 FJ40: Pandora's Box 1970 FJ55: Iron Pig |
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#46 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 24
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I just bought a heritage tub and have to do some tac welding for some brackets on the bottom, fuel lines etc......It also is missing a few holes for the center console. So aside from being a pain in the ass to do the welding ( I cant weld, and wont attempt on such a pricey item), i think it will last for a long time. I plan to prep it, paint it, and undercoat it with the best i can find. So, does anyone know a welder in the delaware area ? Oh, did i mention the tub is ridicuosly expensive, i think i did.
__________________ JAKE www.nightmareone.com |
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#47 |
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FineWynsFJ55
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 709
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Jake, just curious, is the quality of the tub, and the whole package (having to weld, quality of fit, etc.) worth the price of it? An honest evaluation is something I think everybody would be curious about. Keep us updated, eh?
Brian __________________ ~ Two paths diverged in the woods, and I, I engaged my front axle and took the path less travelled ~ 1974 FJ40: Pandora's Box 1970 FJ55: Iron Pig |
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#48 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: east coast Canada
Posts: 369
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In Aviation we use a product called PRC, a polydisulfide sealer/adhesive. We use it between steel and aluminum faying parts...you put the parts together with the sealer when it is wet. You sink the bolts wet during assy. GOOD SHIT! And you usually don't see corrossion in these areas. Most of the fastners used in aviation are cadmium plated and this acts as a barrier between steel and aluminum , A shitty one but still a barrier.
This is the same as all the hardware that Toyota uses , but once you add salt as the electroylyte it is game over and corrossion takes over. All the steel parts, other than body panels, are cadmium plated or yellow zinc as some call it. This is why there is not alot of dissimilar corrosion between the steel and aluminum parts on the Land cruisers, unless you are in an environment where they use salt, such as where I live. Sometimes trying to remove bolts holding aluminum and steel parts together is a major pain. The pars corrode and are almost impossible to remove! Don't be fooled by the statement that aluminum is corrossion proof! It will turn to white powder if you don't protect it. The same goes for steel it will rust if you don't protect it...but it will rust alot sooner than aluminum will corrode. The alclad coating on the aluminum is a very thin layer to act as a sacrificial anode...once scratched through it will attack the base material and blisters will form. I have been fighting corrossion and rust on aircraft and my vehicles for 20 plus years....all I can say is none of these are is corrossion proof. Steel dies faster than aluminum but aluminum is much harder to repair than steel and if you seal out moisture and use inhibitors they will last a very long time. I know that was alot of babbling but HTH's, Daryl __________________ 74 fj/bj40 88 fj/bj62 , full OME lift kit , home brew turbo , 4 runner brakes . |
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#49 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Delaware
Posts: 24
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If you are handy with a welder it probably isnt too much of a pain to tac the clamps and such. As for the price....its a toss up. I just dont know. I guess it depends on what you plan to do with your cruiser and is the negative investment worth it? I plan to keep mine for around forever. So will it be worth it, i think so. I just with all the fuel line clamps and the side step holes were in place. I thought if i paid that much the standard stuff would be there. So know i have to dick around and find someone to help me weld that stuff. Here is a link to my never ending project.....
http://web.mac.com/mfields17/iWeb/Mi...ruiser%20.html __________________ JAKE www.nightmareone.com |
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#50 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Friendswood, Texas
Posts: 8
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Okay, I am looking to do a new tub and cowl due to realy bad rust in both. In looking around I saw a company saying that their steel looked more like original than the al bodies. So does the outside of the AL bodies look that much different from the steel or is it just how the interior areas are done?
I realy want it to look normal on the outside but am not too concerned with square trans hump. |
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#51 |
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IH8MUD Rookie
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 13
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the tub looks fine, the cowl is a bit different, one less louver cut on the side, IIRC
check out alumacruisers thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/104178-rotw-alumacruiser.html here's a pic of his rig: |
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#52 | |
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IH8MUD Junior
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Go to Iron Pig Off road in VA and trailer up a Heritage and while you are there trailer me back on also.
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#53 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 562
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haha I don't think my '84 S-10 (2.8L) would be able to haul a tub that far... let alone two... but I do plan on bringing my axels up to cruiser creations next fall.. so we'll see if their tubs are any good - more than not i'll be going with gozzard's.. my dad worked with fiberglass for most of his younger years.. so that will help a ton with prepping and cutting...
on a side note, does anyone know if mike will make any of his tubs a color other than white... from what my dad was telling me if the fiberglass and the outer resin (i don't think thats what it is called) is the same color it is pretty easy to fix any scratches in the outer resin - but even if there are any it won't matter because the fiberglass underneath would be the same color... that would be sweet to just order every body part from gozzard's and just bolt them up together (not that easy.. but yeah) __________________ Oct '76 FJ40 '84 S-10 - '94 S-10 blazer leather interior, 3" hocky puck |
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#54 | |
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IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,053
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Quote:
__________________ Toyota still builds real Cruisers. They sell them overseas. |
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#55 |
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IH8MUD Junior
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#56 | |
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IH8MUD Junior
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#57 |
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IH8MUD Regular
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Calgary AB.
Posts: 292
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You may want to check in to the availability of tubs from Gozzard. I tried to get a hold of him for months and didn't hear back from him until someone who knows him called him on my behalf. Even then, he said he'd have a tub for me over the holidays and I haven't heard back from him. I was trying to build an all glass cruiser but I've given up on him and am ordering an Aqualu so that I can get the parts I want in a reasonable time line. I did get the impression from emails with Mike that once he finishes this tub he's been working on he's going to concentrate on his boats instead. There may be the one tub there though that's close to being done if you ask nicely (and can miraculously get a response to your email). ...Steve
__________________ 99 Taco V6. 33's, dual ARB's, lift, winch and armour. 77 FJ40. 35's, power steering, rear lockrite. My pics and videos |
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#58 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 562
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ha thanks for the info.. sadly I probably won't be buying a tub until the summer after this one... gonna try to work my way from the ground up.. the tub being the most expensive thing in this resto.. it'll be one of my last purchases... heh
Joe from supercruisers in prov RI actually just sent me a pm and said they have some aqualu tubs that have an aluminum cowl... seeing as my cowl is shot.. this tub might be the solution to my problems -shame mike might not contine FJ40 tubs.. those things are beautiful __________________ Oct '76 FJ40 '84 S-10 - '94 S-10 blazer leather interior, 3" hocky puck |