[1973Guppie]

HI,

I have change my plans with my FJ55 rebuild and am now planning on doing an FJ60 Power Steering Swap. I have read through some of the faq's but have not found answers to all my questions.

Are there any threads detailing the install of the box on the frame in a clean fashion. I saw one where the guy built a bracket but did not like the route he took. I have seen others where they drill through the frame to mount the box I believe? I would guess you would need to install sleeves into the frame and scab plates on either side? Any links or info on how best to cleanly mount the box on the frame appreciated.

Also, I have converted the front axle to minitruck discs, swapped over knuckles from a minitruck. I plan to use the fj60 box and pittman arm. I believe I will need the drag link from an FJ60, correct? to mate up to the fj60 pittman arm? Do I then use the minitruck tie rod or the stock FJ55 tie rod on the steering arm ends? Also, how will the fj60 drag link connect to the tie rod? Basically need to know with my setup what tie rod ends, drag link and tie rods to use.

Thanks, i will keep searching to try to find the info, but thought I would put out my specific info as well.

Noah

[exmodlad]

i have the complete PS setup out a running 1983 BJ 60...not cheap but it has every nut and bolt needed to install power steering in a 60 series LC with the 3B engine


Best Regards

Gord

[1973Guppie]

Originally Posted by exmodlad

i have the complete PS setup out a running 1983 BJ 60...not cheap but it has every nut and bolt needed to install power steering in a 60 series LC with the 3B engine


Best Regards

Gord

THanks but I am looking only for info right now and plan to find the parts myself, also I am installing 60 series LC PARTS onto a 1970 FJ55 with a vortec V8 engine. Any help appreciated.

Noah

[grant5127]

The one I was involved with.... used 60 box, pittman arm and 1/2 of the drag link off the pitman, joined with the stock. That 60 end has the hole for the stabilizer to connect... using a 60 stabilizer and relocation of the stock frame mount.... same basic welded threaded plate was used for box mounting.... I don't have any pics of the 55 but here is one of a 40 project that is work in progress....

[1973Guppie]

so grant, looks like you mounted the box by welding a scab plate to the frame rail and then taping it for bolts? I have seen others that have drilled through the frame and bolted to the other side. Wonder what the benefits are of each way of doing it?

So you used the FJ60 draglink end that mates up to the FJ60 pitman arm? Did you then take this FJ60 draglink end and mate it to the stock landcruiser draglink?

[grant5127]

after the stock drag is cut, ream it out with a 3/4" drill bit and the 60 will slide inside then weld it up...if you don't feel safe about the weld? drill a 3/8" hole through it and insert a bolt and nut..( measure twice, cut once) using long bolts through the frame w/out tubing inserts will collapse it as it tighten down, besides that it won't stay tight.... I've done at least a dozen w/threaded plate with no problems.. just use grade 8- 7/16" bolts and lock washers... the tubing method is a hassle...

[brew8]

Mark Whatley did a nice write up of this conversion in Toyota Trails you might want to look it up, Larry

[Mark W]

I've done a few FJ60 and Scout PS conversions in '40s. Same basic approach. In my mind, far and away the best way to mount the box is to weld a 3/4 inch thick plat onto the outside face of the frame. Size it such that it is welded to the top and bottom faces as well. Drill and tap holes in the plate to mount the box. The box mounts to the p;ate alone. If you want to you can drill through the outside face of the frame and put longer bolts all the way through to the inside of the frame and then put nuts on the back. Not worth the trouble IMHO.

The plate helps to clear the rad bracket too. It can make clearance of the shock mount tight, but that is easily address in several different ways.


Mark...

[1973Guppie]

Thanks everyone,

only problem I see is I am working with a miller 175 welder and I am unsure about welding 3/4 inch plate with it? I am a decent welder but the thickest I have welded is 1/4 inch plate. Do you see any problems with welding 3/4 inch plate with a miller 175? I suppose I could bevel the edges of the plate to get very good penetration, any comments or opinions appreciated.

Also, so with my specific setup (minitruck knuckles and steering arms)I would use:

- fj60 box
- fj60 drop pitman arm
- fj60 drag link end mated (welded & bolted) to stock FJ55 draglink?.

this is where I am lost. Attached is a pic of the two tie rods I have. One minitruck and one stock FJ55. I have some tie rod ends that came with the project I bought and I believe they are stock fj55 ends. It looks like these are too small for the minitruck steering arms. I believe that the previous owner was going to use the stock fj55 ends while doing the minitruck ps setup. My question is, what tie rod do I use, stock or minitruck? and when using the fj60 end that hooks up to the pitmann arm, what tie rod end do I use on the other side of the drag link?, where the drag link hooks up to the minitruck tie rod? Would it be best to use the fj60 drag link or use the stock fj55 draglink? basically need to know what tie rod and what drag link to use with the minitruck steering arms?

Thanks and sorry for the rambling,

Noah

[PabloCruise]

Originally Posted by 1973Guppie

I saw one where the guy built a bracket but did not like the route he took.
Noah

What did you not like about the route I took?

[1973Guppie]

nothing personal and no offense meant, I just think the method of sleeving the frame looks cleaner and for me will be easier. As I mentioned above I am working with a mig, miller 175 and not sure if it will be powerful enough to weld 3/4 inch steel plating. who knows which way I will ultimately go though.....

Noah

[1973Guppie]

after thinking this through I think the best and cleanest route will be to use the minitruck tie rod i have, it is the same length exactly as the stock fj55 tie rod. Then cut a length of pipe from a local metal supply shop to the correct length and have a machine shop tap one end to fit the fj60 TRE and the other end to fit the minitruck TRE. Any thoughts on this? Also, i am wondering if the fj60 TRE's are the same as the minitruck tre's?, I have no experience working on the fj60's. If they are this would make things easier.

Noah

[grant5127]

One reason for using a section of 60 drag-tube it has left hand threads needed to fit the 60 tr-end.....all the 60 ends are larger than 40s and minni..... if you had done a 60 disc swap all 60 tr-ends could have been used and just shortened the tubing.........

[pappy]

Originally Posted by 1973Guppie

Are there any threads detailing the install of the box on the frame in a clean fashion. I saw one where the guy built a bracket but did not like the route he took. I have seen others where they drill through the frame to mount the box I believe? I would guess you would need to install sleeves into the frame and scab plates on either side? Any links or info on how best to cleanly mount the box on the frame appreciated.

Also, I have converted the front axle to minitruck discs, swapped over knuckles from a minitruck. I plan to use the fj60 box and pittman arm. I believe I will need the drag link from an FJ60, correct? to mate up to the fj60 pittman arm? Do I then use the minitruck tie rod or the stock FJ55 tie rod on the steering arm ends? Also, how will the fj60 drag link connect to the tie rod? Basically need to know with my setup what tie rod ends, drag link and tie rods to use.

Thanks, i will keep searching to try to find the info, but thought I would put out my specific info as well.

Noah

My setup. Box is bolted through frame. Frame is sleeved and scabbed on inside. Plate on outside was to space the box out from the AI pump (which is now gone). I'm using a flat pitman arm, 4x4labs steering arms on mini-truck knuckles, with a DOM drag link and tie rod from Marlin.