H41/Orion combo...

[Poser]

Next the bearing and shaft are driven into the nose cone and the snap ring is installed, and then the front output shaft seal is installed.

[mustardfj40]

Nice! Wish I was the lucky dude who got to see his Orion/H41 combo built up professionally and documented on the net

[JJS]

Originally Posted by scouthead

Drooool...

My thoughts exactly.

[Trollhole]

Too bad there is not a drool smiley.

[Poser]

Next we need to put the range selector collar on the main shaft, and put a little assembly lube on the bushing journal of the main shaft and the low speed gear bushing.

[Poser]

Then you will install the low speed gear into the transfer case housing by sliding it between the counter shaft gears and tucking it into a machined relief in the side of the housing. Now the main shaft assembly containing the range selector collar, high speed gear and front main shaft bearing is slid into the low speed gear in the case from the front side.

[Poser]

With the main shaft now in the case, it is now time to install the 4wd shift collar, front output shaft and nose cone assembly. The gasket is placed on the nose cone and the housing is secured to the case with five bolts. I do not use any locktite on these fasteners until after I have the main shaft bearing preload accurately set. Note the orientation of the 4wd shift collar. The nose of it is installed towards the case, and not towards the front output shaft. If this is reversed, you will not be able to disengage the front drive shaft, and will likely struggle trying to get the shift fork from the front drive actuator into that collar and the bolts for the actuator into the holes used to secure it to the nose cone housing.

[Poser]

Now install your rear main shaft bearing thrust washer between the low speed gear and bearing, and then slide the bearing onto the shaft. I found that just like the front thrust washer, I could not use the stepped thrust washer and needed to use a stock piece. With the stock thrust washer I got .010” low speed gear free play, which is in the .008”-.012” recommended clearance.

[Poser]

The rear main shaft bearing will need to be driven on the main shaft with a hammer and the driver provided in the Orion kit from Advance Adapters.

[Poser]

After the rear output bearing is driven on the main shaft the race needs to be installed in the case. Put a little assembly lube that is provided on the race and drive it into the case. You will need to use a punch to seat the race to the roller assembly.

[4x4Poet]

Wonderful detail, Poser. Thanks.

[65swb45]

Originally Posted by Poser

So I found out that even using the thinnest side of the stepped thrust washers was not going to work. So I removed the gear, thrust washer and bearing from the shaft using the press again, and installed a stock thrust washer without a step. This provided .009” clearance. This value is also verified after the main shaft and gear assembly is installed in the case after the pre load is set.

I just had the SAME EXPERIENCE assembling #340 today! Glad I read this before I called you. Interesting how the clearances seemed to have changed now.

I also noted that the idler gears spin freely in the housings now. Nice improvement.

They have not updated their instructions to note the use of the set screw on the back side of the case for the hi-lo shift shaft. Curious.

Steve, I think if you add in one more pic showing the folks how you press the FOP bearing into the front extension housing, this build up thread would be a better 'real world' resource thread than what AA has.

[1Fine40]

Originally Posted by 65swb45

They have not updated their instructions to note the use of the set screw on the back side of the case for the hi-lo shift shaft. Curious.

Can you elaborate on this? Thanks.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by 65swb45

They have not updated their instructions to note the use of the set screw on the back side of the case for the hi-lo shift shaft. Curious.

I do not have any idea what you are talking about here Mark....

Originally Posted by 65swb45

Steve, I think if you add in one more pic showing the folks how you press the FOP bearing into the front extension housing, this build up thread would be a better 'real world' resource thread than what AA has.

I am pretty sure that posts 31, 32 and 33 cover that.







The rest of this build up and pictures will be up tomorrow...at least that is the plan.

[fjwagon]

Thanks for posting Steve this project

[chattfj40]

Well, I dropped the 40 off @ Steve's Off Road today and the combo should be here by monday...three day shipping from MN-->TN. Not to shabby Poser!

It should be done by the time I get back from Park City next week. I was gonna ask Steve to take some pics of it going in...but since its a direct swap probably not worth it...If something comes up during the install I have them take pics and I'll post in the thread.

Thanks again Poser! For those who remember all the issues I had with the initial build up over the last 2 years (search!), Poser has restored my faith! A completely painfree and quick transaction!

Todd

[65swb45]

Originally Posted by Poser

I do not have any idea what you are talking about here Mark....

I am pretty sure that posts 31,32 and 33 cover that.



.

1. Update. I looked at the case again today while I was updating my customer on his project; it is case #350, not 340. Apparantly in the intervening time, AA implimented the set screw they had told me about last summer. As I told you and Mike last spring, I was annoyed when AA changed from the interference fit on the shift shaft to the 'floating' version that relied solely on the rear key to retain AND ANCHOR it. Factory tolerances on the key material varied widely, and the shaft in my case had enough 'float' in it to make me weld up a custom key to stop the shaft from moving.

Now, AA has apparantly updated the design to correct this issue. The hi-lo shift shaft now has a tapered hole in it in the part of the shaft that would be directly under the rear side of the transfer case housing, just forward of the rear o-ring. The case has now been drilled and tapped to accept a set screw with a matching bottom on it. Now that I've looked at your pics again, I realize that the case you worked on does not have this provision. Obviously I didn't look that closely yesterday. Now I realize I will have to post a pic of this and add it to your thread for reference.

2. Install pic. I honestly don't know how I missed that. The pic I was thinking of is right there in 33. I guess those 11pm post times are catching up with me!

[Poser]

Originally Posted by chattfj40

Well, I dropped the 40 off @ Steve's Off Road today and the combo should be here by monday...

Thank you Todd....now just get back up here for a few days and play around in your old stomping grounds with your truck and new gears!

[65swb45]

Here's a pic of the case with the extra hole and set screw in place.

[1Fine40]

So, would it be a good idea for those of us with early cases to add this set screw option?? (Would have been nice to do while the case was out of the truck!) I've not had problems with the shaft coming loose, but not too sure about fore and aft drift....

Cheers!

[peesalot]

When did they start machining the recess for the shift rail reataing tab ?
I agree with mark that the shift rail retaining tab vary widely from factory and have a huge effect on the shift collar positioning.
I will look at my case again ( # 100) but IIRC it has no recess where the tab attaches.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by peesalot

When did they start machining the recess for the shift rail reataing tab ? I agree with mark that the shift rail retaining tab vary widely from factory and have a huge effect on the shift collar positioning.
I will look at my case again ( # 100) but IIRC it has no recess where the tab attaches.

John-


In these pictures you can see that I am (was) working on case # 339.


Mark is building case # 340. I would say that it started with # 340.


If you ever decide to pull your case and have the high-speed gear cut and install the stepped thrust washers, you could think about it at that time. I would not pull a functioning case down to do this modification.

[peesalot]

Not talkin bout the set screw bs but the oval shaped recess where the case is tapped for the tab bolt and the hole for shift rail. IIRC that area was not milled out on my case just machined flat where the tab bolts on to hold rail.

[Poser]

#13





#150

[John Smith]

Is that a Toybox in front of the Orion? If so. Talk about crazy low.

[Poser]

Originally Posted by John Smith

Is that a Toybox in front of the Orion? If so. Talk about crazy low.

Yep.

6.50x2.28x4.0x5.29= 313:1

[Cruiserdrew]

Where did you get the billet nosecone? Warden used to have them rolling around his shop-I wish I had bought one. I'm saving a good ribbed one for a future Orion project, though an H41 + split case + gears might do instead.