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Old 11-08-06, 09:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need help replacing cam plug

The plug in the picture at the 2 oclock position is leaking. Engine is out and on an engine stand. What is the best way to remove this plug? What should I replace it with? OEM or an aftermarket expanding type? Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 11-08-06, 09:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Just punch it out from the inside.

This is not a freeze plug. It is a very shallow, straight walled plug. Nothing deeper will work here. You may not be able to find it except via the dealer, SOr or other Cruiser (or at least F/2F/3F) oriented supplier
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Old 11-08-06, 09:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyman317 View Post
The plug in the picture at the 2 oclock position is leaking. Engine is out and on an engine stand. What is the best way to remove this plug? What should I replace it with? OEM or an aftermarket expanding type? Thanks in advance for your help.

Your garage looks just like mine!! Cool


Except that you need to clean yours up like I did


Ed

I had the machine shop do mine, so I am absolutely of no help here. But you already got advice from a Cruiser-made-man.

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Old 11-08-06, 09:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That the oddball metric plug. A good machine shop should be able to source it.
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Old 11-08-06, 09:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That oil galley plug looks suspicious... whats up with that?

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Old 11-08-06, 09:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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That is my old '74 F that I gave to IDave. He just posted it to clarify. That is also my nasty-assed garage in the background......


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Old 11-08-06, 10:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Degnol View Post
Your garage looks just like mine!! Cool


Except that you need to clean yours up like I did


Ed

I had the machine shop do mine, so I am absolutely of no help here. But you already got advice from a Cruiser-made-man.




That is pretty damn funny Ed...


I thought that I had seen the oil smears on the cam plug and that shop vac before...




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Old 11-08-06, 11:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah that picture has gotten a LOT of milage.

Actually, perhaps I should have asked first, but the way I got that out (yes, the one in the picture!) was to drill a hole in it and work it out with a screwdriver.

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Old 11-09-06, 03:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes, I cobbed the pic because it was too convenient to do otherwise. My garage looks worse.

Mark. I don't plan to take the engine down so I need to get it out from the outside. I am concerned about drilling a hole in it because of the potential for shavings getting inside. Perhaps putting some grease on the bit will keep that from happening. Sounds like I need to get the new plug from Toyota. Is there any trick to putting it in? Should I put some kind of sealer around the new one?
Thanks guys for the quick responses.

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1984 FJ60 - Fairly Rustfree Texas Truck, Rebuilt Engine with 5K (For Sale)
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Old 11-09-06, 06:04 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Cool

You could also just use a small sharp punch to make a small hole for a screw. That way no metal shavings inside.

Another trick to keep metal shavings outside is to magnetize the drill bit or use a small strong magnet right beside the bit as you drill.

If you are totally paranoid about it, use a vac as you drill with a magntized bit AND a magnet beside the hole! :-)

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Old 11-09-06, 06:46 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I witnessed a wise old man remove a cam plug by poking a hole in the center with a ice pick, screwed a sheet metal screw into the hole, then when it contacted the cam the plug followed the threads of the screw outward. I dunno tho, may have been a fluke deal

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Old 11-09-06, 09:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You will see that if you get a few shavings in they will be easy to get back out once you get the cap off. I used a small, magnetized bit, then punched it bigger until I could rip my screwdriver in there. It wasn't easy to get out!

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Old 11-09-06, 12:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If the cam is in place, it will prevent any metal shaving from going anywhere. Once you have the plug out, just clean them out with air, vacuum, a brush or whatever.


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Old 11-09-06, 01:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Any tricks on installing a new one? Use a sealant of some sort?

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1978 FJ40 - Restoration project with 58K miles
1994 FZJ80 129K miles Locked with 295 Terra Grapplers, OME heavies, ARB front bumper, Warn 9000
1994 FZJ80 with 43k miles. Tons of Parts for Sale Thread and pics here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/parting-out/316462-1994-43k-plus-3-other-80s-%40-pick-part.html
1984 FJ60 - Fairly Rustfree Texas Truck, Rebuilt Engine with 5K (For Sale)
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Old 11-09-06, 03:48 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I used JB weld, but it may be overkill.
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Old 11-09-06, 10:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
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IIRC, when rebuilding a Ford 360 block, my friend and engine master mech. instucted to hit one side of the plug to where the thing will sitting sideways in the hole. Then jank'er out with a pair of visegrips.

I believe we found a socket similar in size when installing.

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Old 11-10-06, 02:53 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I don't normally put anything on the plug. Just install it dry. A good silicon wouldn't hurt. Nor would JBweld. I'd chose silicon if I was going to use anythig.

There is not enough room with the cam or the cam bearing in place to punch this plug sideways. Works fine for freeze plugs, but not for cam plugs.


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Old 11-10-06, 05:22 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I would want to be very careful not to damage the sides of the hole. JB Weld might make it extremely difficult to replace the plug in the future however, how many years would that be. Is it possible to push the plug in too far and interfere with the cam? Mine seems in there pretty far as it is. At least 1/16 of an inch beyond the block maybe more. Excellent ideas on this task. Any others?

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1978 FJ40 - Restoration project with 58K miles
1994 FZJ80 129K miles Locked with 295 Terra Grapplers, OME heavies, ARB front bumper, Warn 9000
1994 FZJ80 with 43k miles. Tons of Parts for Sale Thread and pics here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/parting-out/316462-1994-43k-plus-3-other-80s-%40-pick-part.html
1984 FJ60 - Fairly Rustfree Texas Truck, Rebuilt Engine with 5K (For Sale)
1984 Harley FLTC
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