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11-03-06, 10:03 AM
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#3 |
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IH8MUD Regular
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I think maybe because the FAQ is kinda hidden in another menu way down at the bottom of the page where people aren't finding it.
http://www.cruiserfaq.com/00-00.html Another question i see pretty often is the issue of price or how much it's worth. I had some good feedback in this thread to get a general idea on pricing, but it's pretty vague, and like people said, it's pretty hard to put a price on these things. http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.p...ighlight=guide |
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11-03-06, 10:07 AM
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#4 | |
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Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
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Quote:
What are you talking about? So are you telling me that you cannot find the 40 series F A Q on the FRONT PAGE of the topics? I am not talking about another sites FAQ, I am talking about the 40 series section specific FAQ.... It is a stickie, just above this thread on the topics page.... |
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11-03-06, 10:23 AM
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#5 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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Steve I think a lot of folks don't see it. Can Woodrow make the font bigger, bold text, something
__________________ Flat Nasty with TAC 2008 event info. "Sit tall in the saddle, hold y'ur head up high. Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky... and live like you ain't affraid to die. Don't be scared, just enjoy y'ur ride." |
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11-03-06, 11:31 AM
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#6 |
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IH8MUD Lifer
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I read them all the time... but I have to admit... I was here a long time before I found them (right in front of my face)... But I wrote it off to me being a knob...
__________________ My weekend friends love Top Gun... (Gay yes I know) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHklGtW3rwU build thread http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...r-builder.html |
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11-03-06, 11:42 AM
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#7 | |
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IH8MUD Regular
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Quote:
I was talking about the FAQ that deals specifically with buying a used cruiser. That seems to be the most often asked question from a new user, i.e. what's it worth, what common problems should I be looking for, things to avoid, best years, etc. The 40 series sticky on the front page is has a lot of good tech info, but it's geared torwards people that ALREADY own cruisers and are looking for more detailed information on mods or commonly asked questions. Judging by the number of similar topics on this subject, I'm assuming most new users might glace at it and don't immediately see the info they're looking for, so they post up the same question every week. Eventually, you will find the information by going through a lot of links, but it isn't very obvious. I'm just relating my own experience when searching through all this, there was a lot of good information on this site, but unless I bookmarked specific pages, I had a very hard time trying to come back and find it because it tended to get buried in a bunch of links Last edited by ducktapeguy; 11-03-06 at 11:47 AM. |
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11-03-06, 11:55 AM
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#8 |
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Me and my Big Wheel
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: in the garage after dark in UT
Posts: 5,042
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theres a faq
where have i been __________________  cc------------- 76' fj40 camcrusier13 build threads the following are links, just click, go on try it Traction Bar Sliders Ram Assist Bumper Poison Spider Style Shackle Reversal Half Doors if your doing it im sure ive done it, need help just ask....... |
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11-03-06, 12:06 PM
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#9 |
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UC VP & Cook
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Okay back on topic. Lets put together some thoughts and ideas on what people should look for. And maybe some pictures. A lot of varibles on what year is right for you especially depends on your application (daily driver, light wheeling, rock crawlwer)
So what are some things we can add to look for? on 4speed transmission and T-case. Check for leaking out the emergency brake attached to the t-case. Check for slop in both Drive shafts for slop. Any slop is to much. I rebuild is due. Cracks or welds on the T-case Most 6 into one headers are a pain in the ass top seal and will cause problems down the road. Drum brakes all around (epecially on the front) are a pain in the ass and need constant adjustment Oil leak between tranmission and engine most likely means the rear seal need to be replaced. $$$ possibly $$$$ Black or very dark clutch or brake fluid means the PO (previous owner) was slack in bleeding the brake fluid and most likely slack on the whole brake system. A sign of messy wiring means potential problems down the road. Places that rust. Bottom of doors rear sill between body and gas tank (Tank under seat) wheel wells outer fron fender brace Signs of abuse or heavy wheeling. Heavily dented or bent skid plate Drain plugs on front and rear diffs gouged up Leaf springs that have a slight s shape to them ************************************************** ************************************************** **********please note not all things listed above mean it's a bad cruiser. Just means you will have a lot of work ahead of you.************************************************* ********** I bought my second cruiser with all the above problems. I drove it 1000 miles 8 weeks later. Cruisers take a lot of abuse to make them fail __________________ Marshall UC VP & Token Club Cook Greenville, SC Big Gay 2f Build The Great Cruiser Part Links Thread Buying a Land Cruiser Guide "On second thought, let's go to Chat. It is a great place." 73 Fj55 Big Ugly 76 FJ40 ROTW 75 FJ55 My Build 93 FZJ80 stock everything and staying that way. Last edited by Trollhole; 11-03-06 at 01:54 PM. |
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11-03-06, 12:55 PM
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#10 |
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IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northern Vermont
Posts: 559
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This thread should be sticky and the title should be more clear. "How to buy an FJ40" or "What you need to know when buying an FJ40", and maybe "Read this before you ask".
"Buyers guide" made me think vendors when I first saw it. Maybe just me though. No offense to noobs, but they don't read the FAQs. __________________ Robert 64* 04' 37" N 144* 39' 30" W 1977 FJ40 - it's gettin there. 2000 Tacoma - it's been all over and starting to show it. 2006 4 Runner - for the  www.longtrailappraisal.com Last edited by VTFJ40; 11-03-06 at 01:10 PM. |
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11-03-06, 07:50 PM
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#11 |
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IH8MUD Addict
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Make sure all the SMOG stuff is there / and the vehicle passes smog before you buy it if you live (or might someday move to) somewhere that SMOG checks are required.
Smog can be a yearly nightmare if you don't. One hundred dollars spent with a mechanic when purchasing your vehicle will be money well spent. You will probably get at least that much back by having ammunition to bargain with the seller. Rocky __________________ 74 FJ-40 - A work in progress.... |
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11-03-06, 08:25 PM
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#12 |
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Noaccount Webwheeler
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Make sure there is not a corpse in the back. And...."Never pet a burning dog"
Those are my two tips.  Ed And if I had read any of this stuff.....I would have passed and bought a....... 'nother 4WD vehicle. But I love the cruiser.  Ed __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers
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03-12-07, 01:20 AM
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#13 |
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IH8MUD Regular
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All in all if you want a cruiser with out any character then purchase a fresh, proffesional restore or go buy an ICON!
These are 20 to 40 year old vehicles. If you can't wrench or afford someone to do it for you move on. That said, there is nothinout there that compares to a 40 series Landcruiser! Even leaking, tired it'll get you back when most others are towed! |
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