removing carb and gasket for 74 fj40

chaka · 08-27-06, 01:29 PM

I was preparing to take the carb off of my FJ40. It seems there is the carb and then the heat-riser or gasket complex. Is it better to take off the carb and the gasket together.... or the carb and gasket complex separately

the gasket complex seems to have 4 nuts on studs... the carb maybe 2?

thanks in advance...

Degnol · 08-27-06, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaka

I was preparing to take the carb off of my FJ40. It seems there is the carb and then the heat-riser or gasket complex. Is it better to take off the carb and the gasket together.... or the carb and gasket complex separately

the gasket complex seems to have 4 nuts on studs... the carb maybe 2?

thanks in advance...

The four studs on the intake hold the carb and the insulator. The insulator is phenolic with a gasket bonded on each side. Don't try to scrape off the bonded gasket. There may be additional paper gaskets on the spacer, too, just don't get out a scraper! Remove the four nuts and both the carb and insulator will come right off.

GL

Ed

chaka · 09-04-06, 03:54 PM

Ok,
Have mostly everything labelled and have all 4 nuts that hold the carb on undone. I do have a quick questions about where to unlink the accelerator linkage. I have a bar with what looks like a ball and socket joint at either end holding the accelerator linkage together. Can someone tell me if these just pry off? or is there some secret to getting them off without damaging anything. I have attached a pic of one

thanks

AATLAS1X · 09-04-06, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chaka

Ok,
Have mostly everything labelled and have all 4 nuts that hold the carb on undone. I do have a quick questions about where to unlink the accelerator linkage. I have a bar with what looks like a ball and socket joint at either end holding the accelerator linkage together. Can someone tell me if these just pry off? or is there some secret to getting them off without damaging anything. I have attached a pic of one

thanks

Slip a long thin set of needle nose pliers in between and squeze handle together and gentle twist. Arm will pop off the ball.

Shane

Nomis · 09-04-06, 05:13 PM

Flat head screw driver will pop them off too - put some grease on there prior to re-assembly.

chaka · 09-13-06, 07:03 PM

Ok,

Getting there slowly. I removed the accelerator linkage using the needle nose pliers. I do have one question, what kind of grease/lubricant is best to put on the ball joint before reassembly?

and on to the next question. Pardon my ignorance, but it appears as though I should remove the EGR assembly before removing the manifolds... is that right?

1st off before i ask more questions this is a CA vehicle.

SO, I didn't see any reason to remove the cooler, but just the pipe/ferrule assembly at the cooler end. At the other end There seem to be 2 EGR valves that are connected to the exhaust manifold via bolts. Has anybody kept everything intact while removing things, or do I need to disconnect hoses in the EGR system for access...? also is there any danger in letting those hoses just hang instead of completely removing them?

Finally, I am attaching an image of what I believe are the EGR valves, but could someone confirm? they are the 2 cannisters in the middle of the pic.

Thanks to everyone for helping a newbie through a process that doesn't seem too difficult, but is easy to make a mistake if you miss something....

Rocky_LC · 09-13-06, 08:59 PM

The big one (on the left) is the EGR, the little one is an anti-backfire valve or "gulp valve" or some such. The can come off separately.

Good Luck -

Rocky

65swb45 · 09-13-06, 11:40 PM

MUCH LESS of an issue to leave them dangling than to get them all separated AND INTACT! THose parts are 30 years old, prolly brittle, and more than likely close to unobtainable. Move them as little as possible.

To service the carb, you shouldn't need to move them at all. To service the intake/exhaust gasket at the cylinder head, you should be able to move the manifolds WITH THE EGR ATTACHED far enough away from the block to clean the manifold and head surfaces and replace the gasket.

Good luck

Mark A.

chaka · 09-14-06, 06:35 AM

Thanks for the messages,
The main reason I was taking off the manifolds to begin with is actually to get at a broken exhaust pipe stud. I thought it would be easiest to remove the whole as access from the bottom is a bit limited.

So you think I can probably just undo the egr valve and the gulp valve... leave them hanging and remove the manifolds?