[kerry]

OVERHEATING PROBLEMS. I have a 69 fj-40 with a 350 chevy conversion. . I recently installed power steering and with this conversion I have to raise the radiator 2" to 3" higher than the stock location. The radiator is stock and I was told it is in pretty good shape. Ever since the change the pig is overheating. The radiator boils and If i dont stop in time it will boil over. I did change the thermostat ( can a new thermostat be bad???). Currently, I have purchased a fan shroud, and I will probably purchase a fan clutch. I hope to have those installed soon. Has anybody experienced this problem or a similar one??? All comments would be appreciated.

[llih]

You can get a new therm that is bad every once in a while. What temp is the therm? A shroud will probably solve your problem. I used a stock rad for years with a shroud and flex fan. When I switched motor mounts, I had to lower the Rad and the flex fan would no longer work. I switched to an electric Volvo fan. Get your shroud on and see how it works. I think I run a low temp therm.

[kerry]

I bought a new thermostat (195 deg) ?? Do you think 195 is low enough?

[wantatlc]

FWIW, on my 350 I run a 160 t-stat - 195 is a bit high with your setup I believe.

[Mace]

Get a better radiator.

a shroud will help tho..

[my64fj40]

Originally Posted by kerry

I bought a new thermostat (195 deg) ?? Do you think 195 is low enough?

No, swap it out for a 160..


And a recirculating catch can would be nice too..

[theo]

Originally Posted by kerry

I bought a new thermostat (195 deg) ?? Do you think 195 is low enough?

If your cooling system isn't working it doesn't make a damn what temperature your thermostat opens at - 195 or 100. They will both be wide open and you will still be overheating.

I agree with Mace. You need a good radiator. A shroud helps a lot.

I have power steering. I lowered my radiatior an inch. Why did you have to raise yours?

[dgangle]

Cooling any water-cooled vehicle is a combination of four things: airflow (fan/shroud), water flow (waterpump/thermostat) and fluid at pressure to raise the boiling point. Proper cooling of a Chevota has been debated before and surely will be again. I cannot understand how anyone living where the ambient temperature is over 70-75F can cool a SBC in a 40 with the stock radiator, whether it's 3, 4 or 50 cores deep. I guess it's how one defines "cool". Some go by the needle position on the stock gauge, others with a high-quality aftermarket gauge. To some, anything over 180 is too hot, others may define hot at 230F.

Up to a few weeks ago I tried everything short of a larger, non OE-type radiator: 4-core HD radiator, high flow WP/TS, water wetter, solid fans, flex fans, elctric fans, shrouds, diffferent bumpers, no bumper, remove the winch, snake oil and prayer. Somethings made no difference, while others helped some. The final solution for me was to go larger, aluminum radiator. I do not know why I waited so long. See

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/92199-best-price-drop-aluminum-fj40-radiator.html

It really wasn't that hard. Just more $$.

[dgangle]

Here's a good link from a while ago on this subject.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/67930-looking-4-best-fj40-chevota-radiator.html

[Fman]

I am using an aluminum 29" radiator from Summit Racing along with a Black Magix Extreme electric fan I have never gone over 205 degrees, even on a 100 degree day. Most of the time I run around 190 degrees with a 180 degree thermostat. See pics below.

Radiator cost = $179, electric fan = $250, new thermostat & hoses = $45 ...having a properly cooled V8 in a landcruiser, PRICELESS!

[kerry]

The power steering installation would not allow the rad to stay in the original location. Had to raise it around 2".

"FMAN" - Regarding that 29" rad from summit, did it drop right in? Or is that a dream? How difficult was the modification.

[1973Guppie]

get your stock recored to a 4 core and purchase and install a taurus fan, this should cool it. i have a vortec and it runs consistently at 195, which is the proper temp for these engines, all day long, up hills, etc, in hot socal weather. In my opinion, getting the stock radiator recored and swapping in a taurus fan is a good cheap $ solution vs. the other options out there.

Noah

[camcruiser13]

Originally Posted by 1973Guppie

get your stock recored to a 4 core and purchase and install a taurus fan, this should cool it. i have a vortec and it runs consistently at 195, which is the proper temp for these engines, all day long, up hills, etc, in hot socal weather. In my opinion, getting the stock radiator recored and swapping in a taurus fan is a good cheap $ solution vs. the other options out there.

Noah

there is a fan for sale in the for sale section as we speak

[camcruiser13]

hey fman can you measure the thickness of your raiator and fan combo, i like that set up and want to know if itll fit in my rig. thanks

[dgangle]

Speaking of Taurus fans, what is the going rate for a good used one? Just curious.

[camcruiser13]

Originally Posted by dgangle

Speaking of Taurus fans, what is the going rate for a good used one? Just curious.

40+/- bucks is about the norm

[dgangle]

Originally Posted by 1973Guppie

get your stock recored to a 4 core and purchase and install a taurus fan, this should cool it. i have a vortec and it runs consistently at 195, which is the proper temp for these engines, all day long, up hills, etc, in hot Scala weather. In my opinion, getting the stock radiator recored and swapping in a taurus fan is a good cheap $ solution vs. the other options out there.

Noah

Let me start by saying that I have no reason to doubt what you are saying is true. I tried the same arrangement and my recently rebuilt, stock carb'd mid 80's 350 ran +230F consistently at sustained high speeds or when pulling any type of small load anytime the outside temp was over 75F.

I'm glad it worked for you and everyone's experiences can be different but I think the general consensus of successfully cooled Chevotas involve a bigger radiator of whatever material. I found the stock radiator no matter how many cores it had to be grossly inadequate at the task.

[dgangle]

...gotta a star...more pics

[dgangle]

more

[dgangle]

...and my planned shroud. Can anyone recommend someone that could make this from say 0.060" aluminum for less than my first born?

[camcruiser13]

dgangle what are the dimensions of your radiator? and how much did you have to move around to get it to fit?

[my64fj40]

A sheetmetal shop could probably make on easy, I called up a couple big roofing comps. and they said they could fabricate mine also..

I put a 31" x 19" in mine, cheap from Summit.

[camcruiser13]

did you cut out much or did it drop right in, how has it worked so far?

[ducktapeguy]

Originally Posted by dgangle

...and my planned shroud. Can anyone recommend someone that could make this from say 0.060" aluminum for less than my first born?

Why do you need to have it made out of aluminum? Just spray paint that thing black and call it good Just don't spill water on it.

[my64fj40]

It's a real close fit, but it fits without any clearance problems..

I bolted up the fenders and bib and measured to see how it would clear the hood and everything checked out good, except it's real close on the hood..



It works great, I got the chassis parked in a 100 degree shop and it keep my 406 at 190 degrees with no shroud and a 16 flex fan, but a shroud it soon to come and that should bring it down more and wind from the vehicle actually moving ofcourse..


Here's a pic, it's the Griffin brand radiator

There's more pics in the link in my sig it you want to see them and my ingenius mounting system..

[FJ40_owner]

Your engine is way to clean!!!!!!!!!!

[rsc71]

Originally Posted by dgangle

...and my planned shroud. Can anyone recommend someone that could make this from say 0.060" aluminum for less than my first born?

you could always fiberglass it and paint it

[rsc71]

Originally Posted by dgangle

Cooling any water-cooled vehicle is a combination of four things: airflow (fan/shroud), water flow (waterpump/thermostat) and fluid at pressure to raise the boiling point. Proper cooling of a Chevota has been debated before and surely will be again. I cannot understand how anyone living where the ambient temperature is over 70-75F can cool a SBC in a 40 with the stock radiator, whether it's 3, 4 or 50 cores deep. I guess it's how one defines "cool". Some go by the needle position on the stock gauge, others with a high-quality aftermarket gauge. To some, anything over 180 is too hot, others may define hot at 230F.

Up to a few weeks ago I tried everything short of a larger, non OE-type radiator: 4-core HD radiator, high flow WP/TS, water wetter, solid fans, flex fans, elctric fans, shrouds, diffferent bumpers, no bumper, remove the winch, snake oil and prayer. Somethings made no difference, while others helped some. The final solution for me was to go larger, aluminum radiator. I do not know why I waited so long. See

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=92199

It really wasn't that hard. Just more $$.

I am pretty much where you are...if it is above 80 degrees it will run upwards of 220 degrees.and summer areound here is 100+ everyday.I have a 351 W though.but am already running a 2 core with 1in cores alum radiator and a perma cool elec fan.have tried the hi flo water pump an T stat with out much change.not sure what to try next

[dgangle]

Regarding the fit.....nothing on an obsolete 35 year old vehicle with a bastard engine bolts right in. I have a bud that has a 350 SBC in a 84 CJ7. I liked how his radiator mounted so I took some measurements, pulled it out and made a cardboard template. I put his radiator back in and used the mock-up when I could get around to playing with mine. It fit really well but I ended up having it made 24" wide so I could fab vertical angle iron mounts directly up from the FJ frame rails. The core is something like 22" wide X 20" tall. The CJ-style mounting system made it easy to mount. I have approx 1/2" clearance on the Saginaw spud shaft and 1" from the radiator cap to the inside of the hood. It fit well but I had to move my custom galvanized battery box back to allow room for the extra width of the radiator. Like I said, nothing bolts right in and previous mods had to be redone to allow extra room not even considered necessary before. My other option was a direct-fit OE-style aluminum radiator like a BeCool but the $400 I saved bought allot of creativity and most said they were inadequate anyway. Regarding the shroud, I was thinking aluminum to match the cool-factor of the new radiator.

It has worked awesome....lowering my operating temps by 25-30F. It now runs 180-195F in 100F ambient temps at any speed/load...and that's with a new clutch fan and no shroud (yet).

[1973Guppie]

Originally Posted by dgangle

Let me start by saying that I have no reason to doubt what you are saying is true. I tried the same arrangement and my recently rebuilt, stock carb'd mid 80's 350 ran +230F consistently at sustained high speeds or when pulling any type of small load anytime the outside temp was over 75F.

I'm glad it worked for you and everyone's experiences can be different but I think the general consensus of successfully cooled Chevotas involve a bigger radiator of whatever material. I found the stock radiator no matter how many cores it had to be grossly inadequate at the task.

I hear ya, different strokes for different folks. Did you use a taurus fan with your setup? From my experience from the Taurus fan is that they pull an AMAZING amount of air and are cheap. I have heard good things about the aluminum radiators as well. Maybe go with an aluminum and a taurus fan? Not sure if the vortecs cool differently than the older V8's? I am sure there are differences though in the engines and how they cool.

best of luck.

noah