[Cruiserdrew]

--------The axles I am purchasing are mounted on a 60 frame with a 40 tub on top. The drive train that was used was a standard automatic FJ62. The front axle was setup for a shackle reversal which I think I will not be doing. I agree that rewelding new perches for the front should be done to get a proper pinion angle. I may use my virgin housing and transfer everything over.

OK-If it's set up for SR, you will certainly need to cut and turn. The pinion angle may be close to Ok, so don't cut off the perches yet. Set it up under the truck and see what the angle looks like. You will certainly need to cut and turn. The fact that the donor was a 62 is good news, your rear shaft and rear axle may already be set up correctly. Again you need to mock it up and look.


--------The axles came with Bobby Long birfield inners. This vehicle was made before the outers were available to the public. I am not sure if they are cromo or not.

I think you have your terms wrong. The inner means the splined axle shaft. The Longfield is the "outer' and is a stronger Birfield. You might consider getting a 30 spline superset and keeping these as spares.


--------Do any of the above hoop options install and weld in without trimming the inner fender wall? I don’t care about looks, I care about performance.

I'm not sure. I didn't cut my inner fenders, but with flex, and bigger tires the tire will be very close to the hoops. I know Jim has rubbing issues with his hoops, and he cut the fenders.


--------It may be a DC shaft but it didn’t look like a DC shaft. It had an extra U-Joint on the tcase output.

Let's see some pictures. The double cardan joint itself looks like a "double u-joint" Again, check the flange bolt patterns. that will be critical when it goes together.

--------Can you point me to pictures or threads going over this? I think I saw the parker P/N references in your thread.

Parker? Not sure what you mean. You need some tube and a double flare tool. I did post some numbers from Classic tube that will work if you have a flaring tool. just remember you need double flares in 3/16 tube, with 10 x 1.0 ferrule nuts.

---------The Hi-Steer comes with the tie rod and drag link. How do I check to make sure that the lengths for the previous vehicle are the same for mine?

If they came off an FJ60 or 62 frame they should be right. Good score there. I think the 4x4 Labs stuff is nicer, but if you have something that works, that will be a major cost saving. Can you post a pic of the high-steer arms and the parts you have?


---------I agree with you here and poly bushings will be ordered. I will be using stock shackles. I also hope to use the existing stock pins in front and the greasabe pins that come with the axles in the rear.

That's a good plan, but before you order bushings check the diameter of the greasable pin. They vary and may be different from stock.

---------I agree with starting with a proper pinion angle.

Just be sure to end up with proper caster. The importance of that can't be overstated. You want safe handling at speed and under braking. 2-4 degrees is good if you run large tires.

---------Can you elaborate here? I don’t know what else to do but keep the front backing plates.

You can eliminate the backing plates and just run longer soft lines. You need the thickness of the backing plates to bolt it up properly. You have 3 choices. 1) Run the stock backing plates, 2) cut the backing plate saving only the center section as a spacer 3) Buy the backing plate spacers from Trail Gear.

I got some cool custom lines made, and welded the soft line mounts on a different place on the axle housing. It cleans up the front a bit.

The advantage to not running the backing plates and the funky sofline/hard line arrangement, is that you don't need to open the hydraulic system to change a birfield in the field. that avoids having to bleed the brakes.

---------The rear disk brake axle comes with the e-brake cable setup that I can hook straight up to my e-brake handle as I see it.

That's a good thing. The interface between the cable and the disc brake caliper is usually a problem, so look at it closely. I'm sure there is a work around.

--------I don’t mind having my truck down for a month if necessary, it’s not my DD. I want to get the traction bar done before it ever hits the pavement. I also don’t expect this SOA to happen over a week. Christmas break is just the starting point.

As long as you do a good job welding on the new perches on the axle, driving and even wheeling without a traction bar is no big deal. I think Jim has no wrap bar, but I'm not sure. If you use short perches like the Dodge ones, then you'll for sure want a wrap bar. If you run longer perches like Ruffstuff, there will be less tendency to wrap. the stiffer you set up the rear springs, the less likely they will wrap as well.


--------I hadn’t taken this into consideration and I think you’re right. It shouldn’t be hard to make my own.

It's hard, because you need to consider the tranny mount. I saw some pics posted of one of FCs skid plates, so look at that for ideas.

--------Lots of people from Trailcrew as well as a few of my friends will be stopping in to help me with this build. I could never accomplish a SOA without ih8mud and my local club support.

Can you weld? There are lots of little things to weld like shock mounts and some major ones like the hoops and the perches on the axles. You can do 99% by yourself, it's just heavy and dirty work. Enjoy.

Edit: Who are you buying this stuff from? It almost sounds like parts from Dave Beckett's old FJ62 that he rolled at Rubithon 2004.