Install.
Started about a year ago with washer bottle relocation, made my own bracket to save some $. Came out very sturdy, it grabs the all 3 cruise control bolts giving is some spring on the rubber isolators, I relocated the diagnostic port to another bolt on the firewall that secures the gasket around the refrigerant lines, I had to trim the diagnostic bracket slightly to clear a protrusion in the firewall, also slightly bent the brake line bracket down both the bracket and brake line are soft requiring only light finger pressure. It just barely cleared before bending but I wanted more clearance to make up for vibration
Thanks to TrailCarnage for the raw stock and welding.
I cut the wires to the pump and spliced in lengths of wire, soldered and hat shirked, (remember to put the heat shrink on before you solder the wires together
) routed along the fender protected in spiral wrap and zip-tied into place
Ordered the second tray from CDan, came with the bolts to install it to the fender and battery hold down assembly, requires some trimming to clear the fan shroud, go slow with the trimming I wound up cutting to much, fortunately I was able to save and reuse the foam in that area to fill the gap.
Help on dual batteries please
Other than that it is a nice fit, seals perfectly against the hood to keep heat out, nice to have an OEM place for the second battery. For the past year it has been a great place to store supplies under he hood.
Next was the rear heat switch, unfortunately it will not work for this purpose as it comes, like a lot of Toyota electrical the rear fan is switched on the ground side, the LED’s also have a common ground to the fan, I had to electrically separate the two parts of the switch
I first removed the harness plug, then remove the back light bulb (1/4 turn) then pressed the 4 black tabs in to release the base, then the 4 white tabs to release the switch plate, then the printed circuit board. Be careful pulling out the PCB the LED’s are attached to it needs to come strait out with no twisting, watch as it comes apart a lot of small parts are going to come out, need to watch to see how it goes back together.
Then cut the trace with a small knife, the copper trace is a similar color to the board need to confirm it is completely cut with an ohmmeter Or there will be a direct positive to ground short.
Then soldered a new ground wire to the board to replace the cut trace. Drilled a hole in the white switch plate for the wire to pass
Then drilled a hole in the black base cover for the wire to pass through
Rear heat switch now has a total of 7 wires, not shown in this diagram is the back light bulb
1, White/Black, + out to trip coil of mini relay
2. Blue/Yellow, + in from alt good in from cluster
3. Green, + from rheostat for back light bulb powers on with parking lights (not shown)
4. Black/Blue, + constant, from 5a fuse, aux battery.
5. Yellow, + from output of mini relay
6. White/Green, variable ground through rheostat (not shown)
7. White, ground to dash bolt, for LED’s
An easier way to do it would be a guarded SPDT-CO switch (single pole double throw, center off). Would not look as stock and no indication LED’s but easier to wire and would work just the same.
The Alt Good Signal starts in the regulator in the alternator, goes from the alt to the “7.5a charge” in the under hood fuse-box, this is where most people pick it up. The signal travel’s through the fuse to the EA1 connector between the fuse box and fender where it goes into the harness going to the dash. It then goes into the cluster through pin 7 of the c11 connector(blue) that is where I picked it up, it is convenient to the switch and in the cab so a nice dry place for a splice
Applies to 96 LX, others should be similar if not the same:
After removing the cluster I separated the pin from the connector and stripped back some of the insulation, soldered on the tap wire making sure it would nto interfeat with the connector when I put it back in, coated with dielectric grease and shrunk on the heat shrink.
The remainder of the control side lives in film can near the solenoid; the relay, choke and capacitor were soldered to a section of perf-board two holes were drilled in the cap where the 6 wires pass through, +/- to the solenoid, + from the 5a fuse, ground from the body, + out to the led’s, and the trigger wire from the switch. Then epoxied that assy to the cap making sure to seal the holes, (pic taken at this stage), coated the whole thing with dielectric grease in case moisture does get in and put the body of the canister on the cap and zip tied it in place.
Next was making the cables.
I was hoping the Swage-It-Tool would make perfect radial crimps, it does not but it is close, started by making 2 crimps in line, this left a slight swell on the sides.
Then 2 more crimps 90* to the first set.
Then pulled back the insulation to apply dielectric grease to keep moisture out, this also tests the crimp
smear the grease arround working it into the wire, slide the insulation back into place to form a grease seal.
This was were I was suppose to put on heat shrink, but I found out to late that the heat shrink I bought (biggest in town) was to small for 1/0
, on went black and red electrical tape.
more options for making cables,
Making your own Battery Cables, Crimp? Solder? Both?