Quote:
Originally Posted by sdnative
Bill, thanks for the reply.
I see what you are saying, but I'm still not sure that is a problem. The fusible link, instead of protecting the large current going from the alt to the battery, now only has to handle the smaller current going from the battery to the fuse box. As far as current limiting, it may as well be a solid piece of wire, as it is now way oversized for it's new duty. As far as I can tell, the only downside to doing this would be the lack of proper fusing between the battery and the fuse box (maybe 20" of wire on mine). The extra distance of wire from the fuse box to it's source (previously the alt, now the battery) would have negligible voltage drop due to resistance. When the vehicle is running, the alt B terminal and the battery + are at the same potential anyway, minus the small drop across the link (which I assume is negligible as well).
The only thing I would probably do is use a smaller rated fuse and holder in place of the fusible link inside the little AM1 box only to protect the wire from the battery to the fuse box.
I tend to over-analyze everything, and just wanted to make as few wiring changes as possible. I have not traced out the wires in the vehicle yet, so far have just been looking at the EWD.
What do you think? I'm pretty sure it will work and there will be no measurable difference in voltage levels or current draw. Unless I am missing something.
Sorry to rehash this over again.
BTW: thanks for the Wrangle link. I'll give them a call.
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It is true that because of its short length the fusible link has to carry at least 80 amps as that is the output of the stock alternator, at least for a short time.
Since you are looking for making as few wiring changes possible you could maybe consider one other way. Run the new large charging wire through a new fuse to the battery positive and just leave the stock wire on the alternator "B" post. Then unbolt the fusible link in the AM1 box and wrap the battery positive end with tape. This way there is minimum wiring changes and those fuse box circuits would still be fed directly from the alternator through that larger #10 wire.
Another consideration while you are analyzing and doing what you originally proposed. In a scenario where the engine could still run and either the fusible link or the fuse you replace it with blows, then you could possibly be without headlights and EFI, and ECU B since there would now be no feed to those circuits in the fuse boxes. In other words not running and possibly blind. A short in 1 circuit could shut them all down. Probably not fun to just have a short in the headlights shut the engine down.
There is a reason Toyota fed those circuits directly from the alternator and not from the battery. I like to preserve the original intentions as much as possible.
Hope these thoughts help.
Bill