Quote:
Originally Posted by Photoman
There are two white wires in that “B” terminal connector on the alternator. One charging big white wire goes to the battery positive and is protected by connecting through about a #14 fusible link wire in the AM1 plastic box. The other white wire at the alternator “B” terminal is about a #10 gauge wire and sends power to the under hood fuse box. Before it gets to the under hood fuse box it splits and supplies power to some circuits in the dash fuse panel. So in this stock configuration power is coming directly from the alternator on this #10 wire to supply these circuits.
If the wire is just removed from the alternator and a new heavy wire is run between the alternator and the battery positive, the under hood fuse box and the under dash fuse panel circuits are now being fed back through the #14 fusible link wire. Like this – power from alternator up big new wire through new fuse to battery positive – from battery positive back through old 14 gauge fusible link wire through old former big charging white wire then to old 10 gauge white wire to fuse panels. It will work, but all those circuits could have less power since they are being back fed through the smaller fusible link wire. To say it another way from faulty memory, the headlights, EFI, tail light relay, defog, FL heater, ECU B, and OBD will now all be fed through the 14 gauge fusible link. Hope this makes sense. Sorry I do not have that version EWD.
Wrangler NW among others has those items circled.
Hope this helps.
Bill |
Bill, thanks for the reply.
I see what you are saying, but I'm still not sure that is a problem. The fusible link, instead of protecting the large current going from the alt to the battery, now only has to handle the smaller current going from the battery to the fuse box. As far as current limiting, it may as well be a solid piece of wire, as it is now way oversized for it's new duty. As far as I can tell, the only downside to doing this would be the lack of proper fusing between the battery and the fuse box (maybe 20" of wire on mine). The extra distance of wire from the fuse box to it's source (previously the alt, now the battery) would have negligible voltage drop due to resistance. When the vehicle is running, the alt B terminal and the battery + are at the same potential anyway, minus the small drop across the link (which I assume is negligible as well).
The only thing I would probably do is use a smaller rated fuse and holder in place of the fusible link inside the little AM1 box only to protect the wire from the battery to the fuse box.
I tend to over-analyze everything, and just wanted to make as few wiring changes as possible. I have not traced out the wires in the vehicle yet, so far have just been looking at the EWD.
What do you think? I'm pretty sure it will work and there will be no measurable difference in voltage levels or current draw. Unless I am missing something.
Sorry to rehash this over again.
BTW: thanks for the Wrangle link. I'll give them a call.