After weeks of collecting parts, searching and I am sure annoying Coolerman and Poser with unlimited repetitive questions, I finally started to tackle installing an FJ60 (60 series) distributor, igniter, coil, and “dented” side cover. I wasn’t planning on doing a write up, but following Coolerman’s suggestion to do so and with posts that a person has to mix and match info together to get an overall idea, I’ll try to order the operation for installing this type of ignition on a vacuum retarded 1973 FJ40 with the standard F engine.
1. Mid 80’s 60 series ignition (side cover, distributor, igniter, and coil)
2. Gasket or gasket maker.
3. 3 or 4 foot wire the same thickness of the igniter wires (and what ever you use to connect wires. I prefer solder)
4. small assorted collection of vacuum port plugs
5. new gasket for the side cover (I was forced to use gasket maker, more on this)
6. Take out your old ignition (parts in number 1)
7. TAKE OFF YOUR VALVE COVER. It is impossible to know if you are on the intake or exhaust TDC.
8. Disconnect the ignition power wire from the starter and get a 2 foot jumper of thickish wire and attach one end to the now removed ignition wire on the starter.
9. In neutral AND BATTERY DISCONNECTED FROM THE RIG, tap the wire on the positive of the battery and bump the engine until you get near the TC on the fly wheel. NOT the timing dot.
10. Once close, put the rig in 3rd or 4th and push the passenger wheel forward. This will bump the motor and turn the flywheel. Once the arrow is lined up with the TC; go to your number one rocker arms. IF you can get the slighted wiggle left and right with the two rods, your are at the correct TDC. (thanks D'animal)
11. If you cannot get wiggle out of the rods, do number 7 again.
12. Put the rig in neutral and use the parking brake.
13. Install the new dented side cover. I had a bit of bad luck here and the bottom front bolt was seized and the head broke off . I had some nasty oil leaking out of it on the first test drive. I had to get two tapping bolts and drilled them above and beside the broken bolt to get a new seal and needrd gasket maker to get it plugged up. I tried to use an easy out, but as with working on a cruiser, the easy out snapped too and there is no way I could drill that out.
14. Now take your distributor and point the dizzy to the number one spark plug position.
15. Look down into the distributor opening. Grab a long flat head screwdriver. Hold the distributor next to the hole in the position it will physically sit in the hole lined up with the lock nut. Turn the oil pump to match the angle of the bottom of the distributor.
16. Now turn the rotor 10 to 15 degrees clockwise. (This is because as the distributor enters the hole, the teeth will grab and turn in counter clockwise. It goes down the shaft turning counterclockwise and you want it to point back to the number one plug once it sits flat.
17. This may take a few tries to line up the bottom of the distributor, the oil pump, and get it to the number one plug.
18. IT MUST SIT FLAT AGAINST THE MOUNTING AREA. There should be no space between the bottom ledge of the distributor and the luck nut once it is tight. If space, the oil pump will not be engaged.
19. Now get some port plugs and plug both ports on the end of the vacuum assembly. Since the carburetor for the 73 is a vac retarded carb (check your years to see what your carb does with vac. Poser is a good source for a last resort) you need to cap those two and figure out what to do with the air caps on the top of the distributor. I plugged the larger and ran a vacuum line above my air intake.
20. Take off your factory coil and mount the new igniter/coil combo in its location. You will need to cut out the ends of one of the mounting holes to make it attach.
21. Pull out your soldier or crimpers and cut the wires to the dizzy in half. Grab wire the same gage as the igniter wires. Since the wire between the coil and dizzy is not long enough, you will need to splice in new wire to make it long enough to fit.
22. Take your existing coil wire and install it onto the brown wire coming off the igniter. Read this from Coolerman for more info on wires.
Installing a FJ60 Dizzy
23. If you have a tach, you can install it on the negative of the coil or use the yellow wire off of the igniter.
24. It is also a good idea to make a good ground on the igniter and distributor by using existing or make new ground wires and attach to both mounting surfaces.
25. Now it is time to put back on the valve cover.
26. Start it up. It should turn over right away (although not running perfectly)
27. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE OIL PRESSURE. If not, you do not have the distributor engaged to the oil pump and start 11-15 again.
28. Grab a timing gun. Connect it per directions for timing gun.
29. Point it at the inspection opening on the flywheel. You want it to ping on the timing dot on the fly wheel. Once you turn the distributor to get the timing set on the timing ball, you should be good to go. Give her some gas past 2000 RPMS. If no knock, burps, farts, loud bangs, or nasty black smoke, you should be good to go.
I don’t think pictures are necessary. Many people have them. Start at Coolerman’s Web Site
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/co...40/main.htmand go from there.
Special thanks to Poser for some quick tech questions, D’Animal, for the obvious answers, and Coolerman for the typing out loud figure it out items.