"Professional" alignment on an 80 equals set toe. Yes they can tell you about other things that are out of spec, but none are adjustable. There are two ways to measure it, degree angle, this requires a machine and toe measurement, with a tape measure or bar. Toe if done correctly and carefully can be set just as accurately with a measuring tape as a high dollar machine.
Like most alignment specs, toe measurement is affected by bigger tires, the factory spec (0 - .16") is for ~30" tires, measured ~15" from hub center. With larger tires, if measured where it's normally measured, at the tread center line, the spec will need to be adjusted. Degree angle is unaffected by the tires, so if you adjust a set of 30" tires at .16" it will be ~4 degrees of toe, with 37" tires it will be somewhat less. I will leave the correction factor math to someone who cares about that stuff.
A general rule of thumb is; larger tires need more toe and less caster, to net a comfortable drive. Most bias ply tires require less/no caster, standard truck radials in the middle and stiff, heavy load carrying truck radials need the most.
IIRC I set it at ~.125" and went to a deserted long straight section of highway. Drove at highway speed, sawed the wheel back and forth a few times, got a good "feel" for how it drove. Pulled over cranked in some toe and repeated until I found the spot where it was "right" for me. The factory specs are great and will probably net close to the best setup for a soccer mom in a stock rig. My junk is no longer that rig and prefer it's set to be comfortable for me.
Excessive toe can cause higher tire wear and drag, but will take a pretty big number to get there. If I had to guess, I would say mine is probably in the ~7/32" range with the 37's?