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Hey Aaron,
Sounds like the swap is coming along, you'll be greasin' in no time.
A few comments. Unless I'm misunderstanding your routing I think that you are currently running in parallel, not series, which is a good idea. Series only works if you tap into a constant source of coolant flow, i.e. NOT your feed line for your heater core. This is because if your heater is off or restricted (not on full heat setting) you get no or little flow to your heat exchangers.
Second, it sounds like you are running your tee off of your supply side heater line directly to your tank and then routing the return to the FPHE. I would think about sending your supply side (that is to say, your hottest) coolant to the FPHE first, then to the tank, then route the return back to the return side. The way it is set up now, you are cooling your coolant before it gets to where it is needed most, the FPHE. In reality you only need a moderate amount of heat at the tank, basically just enough to get sludged oil into the pickup and let the heated line, HOH or HIH I assume, plus the HE do the rest of the work. On a related note, the tank temp gauge might be better located in the fuel line just prior to the IP to get a better feel for line temps just before injection. This can be done pretty easily with a 3-way female brass tee and some hose barbs. Just screw the temp sender, usually 3/8 NPT, into the tee in he middle and you have an accurate uel temp read.
I wouldn't worry about stealing heat by running your heater. Your heater core is basically a giant FPHE not exactly the most free flowing setup. Even if resistance is lower there, you can control that via the supply valve on the dash so it's only at lowest resistance when the heater lever is set on full heat, something I find I rarely do in my rig or else the temp gets to about 90 degrees even in winter.
Hope this helps,
Dave
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