[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by saxosim

Hi Flint,

Thanks for the advice on the needle bearing. I tried to clean it using your approach but unfortunately it was too seized to do any good and I could not save this bearing. A friend of mine helped me to remove the old bearing today and we have fitted a brand new one in its place.

Excellent! You are now that much closer to having your winch rebuilt and you will have full confidence that the new bearing will give good service.

If anyone needs advice on removing this bearing and refitting please let me know as we found a great method that took very little time and put no stress on the casing.

Simon, if you don't mind taking the time to document the procedure, we would all love to hear about it. It would also be very helpful for anyone else needing to replace the needle bearing.

With your participation..and that of others, we can assemble one of the better "rebuild" threads available. Anything you can add here will be greatly appreciated.

He also kindly used his digital calipers to help me set the lower drum bushing to .190 as required. We used a little threadlock material to hold it in place (recommended by a Warn seller in the UK), what did you use to hold your bushing in place Flint? Also does it matter if it moves at all once the drum is in and working as it won't really be able to go anywhere I guess.

I did not use any thread-locker on mine (not that it hurts anything). Mine was a fairly snug fit...and as you say, it really can't go anywhere.

The .190 measurement is not ultra critical IMO.

It is given..so that the correct amount of "lip" protrudes into the case to act as a thrust bearing for the drum gear and also to establish the proper amount of "crush" for the lip seal on the drum. The only way it could move...would be if the lock-plate somehow lost contact with the drum and brake-shaft (pretty much impossible).

I have painted the drum tonight with black Hammerite satin black spray paint and it looks great and like new. I am wondering if it is worth spraying a clear satin laquer on top to help protect the finish but i am not sure yet.

I did not clearcoat the drum on mine....as I chose to use steel cable...and it will eventually wear through the black epoxy paint anyway. I did clearcoat everything else except the motor and solenoid cover.

Just the motor casing to spray now next week and re-assembly can commence at last.

You are making good progress!

Thanks, I shall post a picture of it once it is all finished.

We are happy to help in any way that we can...and we await your "finished project" pictures.



Flint.