View Single Post
Old 03-18-08, 10:45 AM   #13
e9999
You want to do what...?
 
e9999's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: PRK
Posts: 10,201
first thing needed before deciding is a reality check IMHO.

The "consumer" safe industry has managed to hoodwink completely most people as to what safes can do. They will generate this image that the safes they sell at gun shows etc are massive affairs that are impenetrable. BS! Most are thin sheet metal with a layer of drywall attached that passes for "superior fire protection".

Yes, they will prevent a kid or a crackhead from grabbing a gun and running with it. But if you expect to protect valuable pieces from a determined burglar, most of the "consumer" safes won't do. Just check the fine print on the specs and see how thick the metal is (picture your cruiser quarterpanels) and wonder how long that would withstand a sledgehammer or a cutoff wheel or a torch. Most of the gunsafes are probably not burglary-rated (meaning less than 15 mins to get in or something like that) and I'd bet most would have only a 15 mins or less of real fire rating. Check out the cost for the size of real "fire rated" office safes with moisture release. These have like 3" of special concrete in double walls. A smallish one will be $3000.

/Off soapbox/

Anyways, if all you want is casual lockup for the kids, a $1000 safe from Costco or a gunshow will do. If you have valuable pieces, think several thousand $.
Consider carefully the electronic vs manual lock. Latter is much much more reliable, but for quick access (read emergency), the former is way better. Better a cheap safe than nothing of course (but keep in mind a safe is a thief magnet too).


__________________
'97: 88K, 3xlock, Custom HD roo bar for sale, 285 MT/Rs on steelies, Hanna sliders, 851+1.5"/863/N73/N74E/SD24, ARB bull with M12, Kaymar with duals, Kaymar rack, Slee TC skid, 2m/440, more stuff, loose nut behind the wheel!)

'03: 99K, the better half's...

DD

souped up DR650
e9999 is offline   Reply With Quote