[lostmarbles]

Originally Posted by bsmith123

.........I had done a lot of reading on mud about POR15 and RUST BULLET and well there's a lot of differing opinions so I thought I'd just post my impressions having used both now.......

And thanks for doing it. I've always wondered about "Rust Bullet". I don't even know if it is available in NZ but I'd like to try it if I find some.

....Because of the peeling effect I would cut out with a razor and area needing touch up to keep from going farther than planned--It may cure harder over time. (I peeled some off after spilling stripper on it)...

I've found POR15 isn't "hard" in the sense that it cuts/scrapes easily but I've never noticed any tendency to "peel off". (And I've assumed it gains hardness with time.)

......it is not UV stable and to use other top coats you must use their TIE COAT primer although I suspect there are suitable subs that are the same thing........

I tried that "POR15 Tiecoat". Perhaps it was "old stock" or "poor application technique" but I didn't like it at all. I couldn't brush it on smoothly. And there was no way I could get a good final finish after using it.

(By the way, I also hate the way the manufacturer gives no "use by date" on their cans in spite of the paint having a "significantly-limited shelf-life" and being so expensive to buy!)

So I just spray standard top-coat (rattle can or spray gun) straight on top of my POR15 primer. I do this within 1 to 3 hours of applying the POR15 (with the theory that the primer won't have cured sufficiently to prevent "bonding with the topcoat"). I've been doing it for a while now and noticed very little tendency for the topcoat to be able peel/chip off the primer.But then I know this is a "mickey mouse" approach. I don't aim for a "professional finish". (I don't mind the odd "paint run" etc.)

.....POR-15 does not store well once you open the can.....I put plastic over the can then installed the lid .......................

I use cling-wrap under the lid too. I also dispense the amount I need into another container so the POR15 tin is left open only briefly. And I store it in the fridge. With these steps I can generally use the whole can before any of the contents "go off". (And I buy only small tins like you do. (500ml).

....It thinned okay with acetone or mek for cleanup and acetone will clean it up if you act quick............

I'm not familiar with those products. But then I've never needed to thin the paint (although I bought some POR15 thinner should the need arise). But I clean up things with standard paint thinner (like PPG 2-way thinner which is much cheaper than POR15 thinner). However I prefer to discard my brushes than clean them because even a tiny film of POR15 left on the hairs will render them useless. I only use cheap brushes but the quality of the paint means I still get a good finish. (Just have to pick quite a few brush hairs out of the paint! )

......Comes in silver or black.......

And grey (mispelt "gray" on the can. Or is that american spelling?).

.....Rust Bullet is thick and they recommend not thinning it.....

Well that is a negative feature for me because I like the way the thin POR15 seeps into crevices by capillary action and then expands as it sets. I like to think of this happening in spot-welded lap joints in body panels or around rivets in a chassis! But I'd still like to try the RB.

Thanks for the post.


PS. I guess I could look in the "paint section" (I think there is one) but I never go there.