Quote:
Originally Posted by WarDamnEagle
I've looked at that kit and at their diffs, etc. Forgetting about the price for a moment ($150 for two lockers), how does this kit work? I don't see any relays so I assume the voltage goes through the switch. Do you have to turn the switch off when the light comes on? Is it a 3 position switch maybe: lock, neutral and unlock?
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It is possible to wire the locker actuator without any relays, and that's what his kit does. Many have done it without issues, so I guess it's safe.
The actuator has a set of limit switches in it, and a big coil spring. When you hit the switch to lock or unlock the diff, the motor really only torques up the spring, which tries to spin the gear that moves the locking cog in the diff. It's actually a very clever design. It provides for the condition that the cog splines are not in perfect alignment and can't engage. So, the limit switch inside the actuator tells the motor to turn off (so the motor isn't stalled and constantly on, burning it out). The factory wiring (and the relay systems) have a low and high current side of things, the switch on the dash and the limit switch inside the actuator only see low current, just enough to fire the relays (100ma or so), whereas the high current side of the system is the current that goes to the motor, this can get see up to 10A of current if the motor is getting tired or is cold.
The non-relay system like Inchworm sells sends high motor current directly thru the switch on the dash, and the motor limit switches, there is no low current side. I'm sure the dash switch he sells is fine with that much current, but it's the limit switches inside the very expensive actuator that aren't. I just don't think it's a good idea to be sending that much current thru those limit switches, eventually they will burn out.
If you had the actuator in front of you and could pop the cover off, all this would make sense.