Thread: outhouse specs
View Single Post
Old 01-22-08, 07:59 PM   #19
webelk6
duck slayer
 
webelk6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: God's Country
Posts: 719
excellent specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by frgtwn View Post
However, I am somewhat of an expert at outhouses, having built one, and used it religously for, well some time.


1. The best information can come from your county agricultural agent. You may discover that the county does not allow outhouses.

The depth is related to two things, the usage, and the soil conditions. I, for instance, welded two open ended 55 gallon drums together, sunk them in the ground, and deposited away.

2. Pea Gravel. Pee gravel?

( I just could not resist.) Again, it depends on the soil conditions.

3. For company. Or, to speed up the long lines.

4. This is, actually, a good question. It is variable, Sometimes the heat, and the flys are a problem, and a white powder dusting each deposit may be called for. Other times, or seasons, perhaps it may not be needed at all, or only occasionally.


A few thoughts:

There were tens of thousands of WPA toilets built during the depression, and some of the cast concrete bases are still sitting around, often with no stucture on top. They make a great start. Plop on a toilet seat, build your favorite building on it, put a crescent on the door, you're ready to go!

The TP can get damp in some climates. A large coffee can, with a plastic top works well.

A skylite is a welcome addition. I donated one to an uncle for his outhouse, and it was great.

Make sure you vent the hole. PVC or something straight out the roof. It makes a lot of difference. And, close the lid EVERYTIME. You will thank yourself the next time you enter.

I think that an outhouse should be built without a level or a square. The door needs to swing open by itself, or maybe close by itself. It is just part of the experience.

Come to think of it, some folks put on a self closing door. Pulleys, rope, a window weight or two and you get that reassuring slamming door sound when your business is done.

And do not, DO NOT buy new hinges for the door. They hafta squeek. Shop around if you must, but an outhouse door that doesn't squeek is hardly worth the trouble.


A two story outhouse can be problematic. There is one that I know of that actually works. Still, I would rather be on the second floor.

Books have been written on this subject. One of them that I skimmed was quite entertaining, and could be useful as well. The title escapes me.

By now, you must have guessed that I am somewhat passionate about my outhouse experience. You would be correct. There is nothing quite like sitting there with the door open, gazing contentedly across the back 40, and having the family dog stick his cold nose on your bare legs. Life is good!


Dale
I appreciate all of your tips. It is colder than hell here, and was looking to start construction.

I haven't checked this thread since I started this, and started to LMAO . Never could find out why pooping is so funny. Now I know why kids think noises from that area find it so dang funny.

I already knew the coffee can trick. Like I said we use a bio toilet with bio bags with a 3 sided area complete with a moon cut out.

When we get ready, I will post up the finished product as soon as I get my frame off done

again thanks for all of your inputs, not just Dale.


__________________

04/75 fj40 slowly under resto......
build thread http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/99015-04-75-frame-off.html

'94 FZJ80 (DJ81) with 14k gold emblems(wifes)

'06 Tundra/Work Truck Model Iforce V-8 ( paint/estimating rig)

webelk6 is offline   Reply With Quote