The electronics for all the setups is the same if you use George's ECU. The exception is the Transfer pump depending on what you select.
As I went through designing the harness, I used both George's and Boston Manglers write-ups to develop my Schematic schematic. My schematic is tailored for the OEM Transfer Pump. Using an additional pump is pretty easy and you can follow what Kevin did in his write-up.
The first step is to add wires to George's ECU. I color coded the wires and notated them below so I could seal the ECU in a project box from radio Shack. I routed wires to connect to the light from the ash tray. You need to both signals to illuminate the back light. I connected power and ground like George showed in his write-up. I then took a 9 pin molex connector with the following signals:
- Tank Empty
- Tank Gauge
- +12V Pump/Solenoid
These are the signals that get routed back to the tank and transfer pump. I think this is true for any tank or transfer pump you choose.
Here is a schematic for the OEM setup courtesy of Cruiser804. Note that this is for use with the OEM ECU and has seperate signals for the pump and solinoide whereas Georges ECU uses just one.
Here is a write-up on the switch:
I currently don't have the gauge hooked up in the dash, but I wanted to run the wire in case I decide to do it latter. Cdan has converted a rear heater switch to switch the existing gauge between the sub tank and the main tank. Others have said they fill the sub tank and after they perform a transfer, they just consider it empty. Some also added another gauge as shown in Boston's write-up.
I routed the harness down under the drivers side trim and used the grommet next to the rear seat under the step looking piece of plastic to get under the vehicle
I ran 4 wires because at the time of the picture I had not decided where to tie the ground from the Transfer pump and tank. Any good ground point will do.
The subtank wiring is as follows:
Quote:
Originally Posted by loquito
On my sender I have three wires
White/black = ground
yellow/red = fuel guage ie fuel level full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 etc
white/green = fuel empty
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If you want to test the empty wire before you install it:
Quote:
Originally Posted by loquito
Dan
How do I test the sub tank empty wire on the sender to verify that it is working?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserdan
You will need to pull the sender out and lift up the the empty switch. When the curcuit is open (raised) you will not have continuity between the WB ground wire and the YG tank empty wire.
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Below is the schematic I developed in building my harness.
