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A Few things to add to the other Timing Belt write ups.
The FSM is very nice to have, although not always crystal clear and occasionally there are steps out of order or missed.
Ones that I can remember:
- Installing, you don't put the oil cooler pipe on before the LH (Drivers) timing cover - it goes on top of the cover - that was not hard to figure out, but when your tired and reading the FSM - you tend to try to stick to it.
- I did remove the 3 bolts to the A/C compressor rather then bending the bracket that keeps you from removing the Fan Bracket. You need to remove the second under cover or oil pan cover to reach the rear bolt - other than this bolt you can leave on the rear cover.
- When changing the water pump with the job, there is a lot of fluid in there so have the pan ready. Don't even think of reusing the coolant on this job - there is just too much stuff falling out all the time to keep it clean. Do the flush with Distilled water and clean it out. I highly recommend changing the water pump while doing the timing belt. There is an air seep hole that will begin to leak fluid when it is starting to go. This is an air hole, not a coolant hole.
- the FSM is not that clear on the install on the CAMS - use the "T" mark on the head just above the cams when putting the new belt on with the marks on the belt - the FSM only tells you to look at the belt. Mine timmed just perfect when folling this. There are some threads that talk about the "other" marks - these must be the ones although they were not clear.
- The generator only moves asside, you do not have to unhook the wires or remove this.
- You do not have to remove the CAMS - they are not removed for the install like a V6 engine
- I removed the radiator and glad I did - more room to work and no worries about damaging fins. Although I believe you do not have too as others have completed the job with it in there.
- Do not use the radiator bolts to hold your homeade crank tool - err don't tell anyone I did ok. They twisted very easily under that pressure (181ftlbs).
- The bolts to hold the tool are perfect and Autozone carries them - M8X1.25X50mm and you can get the Crank pulley tool on a loaner while you are there.
- I changed several bolts to 8 grade - not sure if this is recommended to aluminium but I did because as I said before I shread 4 grades like Butta.
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2000 LC - 'The Black Pearl' 130K. 285/75/16BFG's
DIY'r: Timing/serp/H20pump,Black Pearl. Needed: Money for lift - it needs shocks! In tow: Fleetwood Tacoma
Daily Commuters: Trek Madone 5.2 / Scott Comp Racing MTB
LIVESTRONG
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