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I went w/ the normal long-life coolant at 60K mi since I know it has to be drained again at 90K for the t-belt/water pump work. At 90K, my plan is to use the SLLC. BTW, some observations. If you plan to replace w/ SLLC, you really need to drain both block drain bolts. On the 5spd, the right block drain bolt is obscured by the ATF lines and a bracket (can be seen if you remove the rear plastic panel in the front right wheel well. Rather than remove that, I just drained the left block drain and radiator 3x each (flushing w/ distilled water and running the engine w/ heaters full blast). If I drained the left block first, then the radiator, I got 6.5 qts (left block) and 4.5 qts (radiator). If radiator first, the other way around (6.5 and 4.5qts). So roughly, there's about 6 qts of coolant in the radiator, 4 qts in each engine half, and maybe 2 qts in the heater cores.
Oh, the toyota tech gave me a tip on removing stubborn diff fill/drain bolts. Whack the bolt w/ a hammer first to compress the crush water. He told me this after I mentioned the front diff allen bolts were super tight (had problems loosening the front fill/drain bolts w/ a 18" breaker bar; PO had the dealer do the work before). Might be safer to whack them w/ a brass bar and BFH. I'll try this next time at 90K mi.
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'03 LX470: ART slotted & cryo'd rotors, Porterfield R4s pads, Stoptech stainless hoses, ARB sahara & Kaymar bars, HID's.
'05 LS430 Ultra luxury edition: rear massage/heated&cooled seats, rear coolbox, side laminated glass w/ built-in window shades, suede headliner
'01 Prelude SH: bone stock
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