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Old 08-04-06, 12:15 PM   #169 (permalink)
Darwood
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Z.O.W.I.E. Headquarters
Posts: 1,874
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarbe
I did the mod with 150 and 100 ohm and I am a bit frustrated...my gauge sits a needle above horizontal instead of a needle below.

Brand new OEM T-stat, new blue clutch, fresh coolant, recently cleaned fins on rad and condenser.

Didn't matter if I let it idle with the A/C on, drive 60 with or without A/C, stop and go...wouldn't really move...just sat there above horizontal a needle or so.

I thought it was supposed to be below horizontal with this set-up?

Maybe I'll have to scrounge a real-time scanner to plug in and see what my temps are....
I PM'd you back. That would be frustrating. By changing the 110 ohm resistor that Raven recommends to a 100 ohm resistor the center should be at an even warmer temperature which translates to the needling being lower when warmed up. If somehow the 150 ohm resistor replaced the 75 ohm resistor the center would be a lower temperature which would result in the gauge needle being higher than center when warmed up. Either that or the truck runs warm. I have a sneaking suspicion that the resistors got swapped somehow.

The 110 resistor should center at 189 where as the 100 resistor should center at 194 when used as a replacement for the 75 ohm resistor.

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'97 LandCruiser (Slee bits with OME418 and SOF4RH springs; Slee step sliders; African Outback full length roof rack; ARB front bumper, Hella 4000s; Kaymar rear bumper, tire carrier, jerry can carrier; BFG AT 315/75/16 on OEM steelies)
'09 WRX STi
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