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Originally Posted by dgangle
if you are using a 79 & 80 minitruck then you will need 76-78 FJ40 vented rotors. You can identify these as the studs only go through the hub, not the rotor and hub. The two also bolt together with (2) 8 or 10mm bolts.
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The style hub and rotor combo that you are talking about here uses six (6) 10mm diameter fasteners to secure the rotor to the hub, not two (2). The 1981 and later 40/60/62 style hub uses two bolts, in conjunction with the six wheel studs.
On the calipers....I would get 88-91 V6 4Runner calipers....as they have four 40mm pistons instead of two 40mm and two 24mm like the 4cyl 4runner and Land Cruiser calipers....
On the birfs...
Yes the stock disc brake birfs are stronger than the drum brake units. If you are going to be running larger tires/locker up front and beating on this thing, you probably will want to just get the 30 spline Longfield kit, as if you do not do it now, you will be doing it later....or just get used to being broken and fixing your junk all the time.
I do not know anyone that has used all-pro's birfs and had anything good to say about them.
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Originally Posted by 4WheelingPlus.com
How critical is getting the shims perfect when aligning the knuckle housing with the axle? I don't have the tools described in some of the posts. There were discussions about creating your own tool but I never found details on how to create said tool.
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When you take the minitruck front apart, keep the shims that were on the top of the knuckle with the steering arm and knuckle for that side, and do the same with the bottom shims on the trunion bearing cap, and transfer them over to the axle housing that you are using to convert to disc brakes...
The upper set of shims adjusts the pre-load on the knuckle bearings....
The lower shims adjust the height that the knuckle housing is in relation to the centerline of the axle housing/seal area...if this is not "close", it will create an oil leaking mess on the knuckle from gear oil leaking past the inner axle seal.
Good luck!
-Steve