Support our Advertising Vendors!!
|
Support our Advertising Vendors!! |
03-23-06, 05:23 PM
|
#1 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
2001 Buildup
I retitled this because I finished the suspension and answered all the questions. It soon became a buildup thread. Thanks Woody for the title change. Here is how it began: OK, I read all the posts, read the OME manual and talked to Christo. I pulled the OEM torsion bars out. The stock bracketry has white marks on it and the flat groove. I took a OME torsion bar and marked the splines on each end so they are the exact ones on each side. I used a chalk line for this. I lined up the marks I made on the new OME Torsion bar with the flat spot on the bracketry, front and rear. When I bolted it back in, the rear adjustment arm was clocked too far clockwise. In fact, I had to pry the adjuster down just to get the top "nut" in the frame. So, the whole assembly needs to be rotated counterclockwise about 1/4 turn, but I don't know what the hell I did wrong. I know that the other side when I loosened the anchor arm on the passenger side it is 1/4" below the frame bracket before I tighten it back up. I want to just rotate the damn anchor arm down to that as a starting point and just crank it back up. Christo says that will be bad. I need help figuring out where I went wrong...... Last edited by wngrog; 03-28-06 at 05:45 PM. |
|
|
|
03-23-06, 07:57 PM
|
#2 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
I know this has nothing to do with DVDs and cupholders, but I need some help here
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-06, 09:27 PM
|
#3 |
|
Rollin’ on 33s...
|
Where's Bull at when ya need him?...
__________________ 1981 FJ60 - Martha’s Vineyard - 210K, OME, BFG ATs, MAF header, hi-flo cat and Magnaflow, Surco Safari Rack, Rod Racks. 2002 UZJ100 - Brooklyn - 44K, OME 865, OME T-Bars, TJM T-15, TJM RB8, Slee Diff-Drop, Slee Tube Sliders, African Outback Roof Rack, Borla & SLP Exhaust, Warn, IPF, PIAA, Toyo Open Country ATs. Gotham City Land Cruisers Yankee Toys Bay to Blue Ridge Cruisers |
|
|
|
|
03-23-06, 09:34 PM
|
#4 |
|
IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 163
|
Next spline
Sounds like you need to rotate to the next -maybe 2 splines. I believe the easiest way is to leave the adjustable side and t-bar together slide t-bar toward rear of vehical, rotate and reinsert into front mount.
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-06, 10:00 PM
|
#5 | |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Quote:
I need to check the OEM bars and see if the flat spots are directly across from each other. I am thinking they must not be. |
|
|
|
|
|
03-23-06, 10:00 PM
|
#6 | |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 07:03 AM
|
#7 |
|
Team Bullsac
|
I had the same issue. You will have to rotate it a spline or two and re-install and check it. I don't think the flat parts are exactly across from eachother. I had to move mine 5 or 6 splines to get it right, which means I had the bars in and out 4 times or so...
Also, I still think my driverside is off a bit and will be taking it out again this weekend. Let me know if you need phone support..or a hug
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 07:08 AM
|
#8 |
|
Team Bullsac
|
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 07:39 AM
|
#9 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Yeah I saw that.
Sure, it dawned on me that the indexing spots (flat spots) must not be directly across from each other. Here is the deal. Take the OEM torsion bar and lay it flat. Run a line aross from one index mark (flat spot) on the torsion bar to the other end of the bar. Count how many splines they are off from one another. Mine are 4 splines off. Set the front (axle end) in place and index the rear 4 splines off on each side. They should hang from the adjuster bolt the same distance on both sides. Don't use an impact on the adjuster bolt. Don't lay inder the Torsion bar when you are torquing it.....they can explode if the metal is a bad cast. Now, about those cupholders...................... |
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 07:48 AM
|
#10 |
|
Team Bullsac
|
So does this mean you figured it out? Honestly I think it is trial and error, my drivervside seems to be off. When I remove it this weekend I will count splines etc from the flat spots.
Cup holders are overated.. |
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 08:08 AM
|
#11 |
|
IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 163
|
I tried counting
I tried to count splines and mark them. Totally useless. When putting it together I couldn't see squat. Eventually just tried to hit the same angle on the adjusters and about the same amount of adjuster bolt treaded. Off one spline on drivers side. Figured it out before tightening everyting. Couple times up and down adjusting. Guess I got lucky. No the flats on oem t-bars are not parallel. I think 4 splines off. useless information, just trial and error imo
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 08:14 AM
|
#12 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Yeah, I just lined them up based on the angle of the torque arm. I let them hang down a bit, so that as I tightened them to the right height, they were level with the frame rail.
EDIT: The first thing I did was look at the angle of the torque arm with stock t-bars. Then, on the new t-bars, I let the torque arm hang down about 30 degrees lower than original. That way, when I cranked them up to gain lift they would end up about the same spot as they were originally. __________________ 2001 UZJ100 Land Cruiser ARB bar, OME lift (863's, N74L's), Slee diff drop, 295 BFG AT's, Slee step-sliders, Slee rear bumper, Husky liners, Hella 4000's My Featured 100 Thread Last edited by Greg B; 03-24-06 at 09:04 AM. |
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 08:16 AM
|
#13 |
|
IH8MUD Junior
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 171
|
well surely there's someone who works for the various aftermarket manufacturers lurking on here...man this one of the many things (ie suspension mods) still on my list to do and i really hope you find the solution!!
cheers peter |
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 08:18 AM
|
#14 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,729
|
Uhm, I have to check the stock bars. I was under the impression the marks are in line.
We always mark the front and rear bracket on the torsion bar and make sure that they do not rotate in relation to each other when we transfer them from the stock bars to the new ones. |
|
|
|
03-24-06, 12:42 PM
|
#15 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
The marks are off.
Before and after. 1.5" higher in the rear with the 863s |
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 12:43 PM
|
#16 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Anyone leave this worthless POS off? I don't think it is going back on mine...
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 01:15 PM
|
#17 | |
|
Rollin’ on 33s...
|
Quote:
Looks really elevated...? 
__________________ 1981 FJ60 - Martha’s Vineyard - 210K, OME, BFG ATs, MAF header, hi-flo cat and Magnaflow, Surco Safari Rack, Rod Racks. 2002 UZJ100 - Brooklyn - 44K, OME 865, OME T-Bars, TJM T-15, TJM RB8, Slee Diff-Drop, Slee Tube Sliders, African Outback Roof Rack, Borla & SLP Exhaust, Warn, IPF, PIAA, Toyo Open Country ATs. Gotham City Land Cruisers Yankee Toys Bay to Blue Ridge Cruisers |
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 02:04 PM
|
#18 | |
|
Team Bullsac
|
I did...I found out the hard way that it keeps the water and mud out of the engine bay. That being said I'm leaving it off permanently..
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 02:07 PM
|
#19 | |
|
Team Bullsac
|
Quote:
Looks good, now go get some new rags installed on it.. What kind of tire are you going with? I can't make them out from the picture.. |
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 02:48 PM
|
#20 | |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 02:48 PM
|
#21 | |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 02:49 PM
|
#22 | |
|
Rollin’ on 33s...
|
Quote:
Maybe it's just me __________________ 1981 FJ60 - Martha’s Vineyard - 210K, OME, BFG ATs, MAF header, hi-flo cat and Magnaflow, Surco Safari Rack, Rod Racks. 2002 UZJ100 - Brooklyn - 44K, OME 865, OME T-Bars, TJM T-15, TJM RB8, Slee Diff-Drop, Slee Tube Sliders, African Outback Roof Rack, Borla & SLP Exhaust, Warn, IPF, PIAA, Toyo Open Country ATs. Gotham City Land Cruisers Yankee Toys Bay to Blue Ridge Cruisers |
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 04:04 PM
|
#23 |
|
what the hell happened?
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Drysdale Vic Aus
Posts: 900
|
We dont use any of the index marks when changing the torsion bars, but set the thread of the adjusters flush with the top of the round section they screw into, slip the bar in, hold them in position, fit other end cap lining up A arm holes while at full droop, then adjust the adjuster back to standard position it was with old t bars, [we always wire brush the thread before undoing, and anti seize before doing up] then we normally only need a slight tweak once car is measured [5 turns of the adjuster = 3/4" fender to rim measurement] and the left [yr driver side] nomally has slightly different arientation to the rh side] to get the height spot on for each vehicle as listed below.
copyied from bulls build post- "You should maintain a minimum of 70mm [2.75"] of droop in the 100 IFS front set up, if you have a Slee diff drop fitted, to stop the cv boots wearing out. [boot pleats shouldnt be touching in straight ahead position at ride height] This is normally 50-60mm higher than standard, depending on accessory levels. on a 16" rim this makes for 770mm [30.3"] measurenent from bottom of rim bead edge up through centre of wheel to fender edge when set up correctly. Rear should be aprox 790-800mm [31.5"]" __________________ Darren McRae 95 80 series 1FZ-FE with bits to come  http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/207630-project-rooby-80-all-rounder-build.html |
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 04:07 PM
|
#24 |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
How is the best way to measure drop? I would like to go higher in the front if I can get away with it.
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 04:07 PM
|
#25 | |
|
IH8MUD Lifer
|
Quote:
I don't like the looks, but I need to get my bumper installed and the storage box filled before I worry too much. |
|
|
|
|
|
03-24-06, 04:18 PM
|
#26 |
|
what the hell happened?
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Drysdale Vic Aus
Posts: 900
|
wngrog
macneill
bull