[wngrog]

I retitled this because I finished the suspension and answered all the questions. It soon became a buildup thread.

Thanks Woody for the title change.

Here is how it began:

OK, I read all the posts, read the OME manual and talked to Christo.

I pulled the OEM torsion bars out. The stock bracketry has white marks on it and the flat groove.

I took a OME torsion bar and marked the splines on each end so they are the exact ones on each side. I used a chalk line for this.

I lined up the marks I made on the new OME Torsion bar with the flat spot on the bracketry, front and rear.

When I bolted it back in, the rear adjustment arm was clocked too far clockwise.

In fact, I had to pry the adjuster down just to get the top "nut" in the frame.

So, the whole assembly needs to be rotated counterclockwise about 1/4 turn, but I don't know what the hell I did wrong.

I know that the other side when I loosened the anchor arm on the passenger side it is 1/4" below the frame bracket before I tighten it back up.

I want to just rotate the damn anchor arm down to that as a starting point and just crank it back up. Christo says that will be bad.

I need help figuring out where I went wrong......

[wngrog]

I know this has nothing to do with DVDs and cupholders, but I need some help here

[macneill]

Where's Bull at when ya need him?...

[farinvail]

Sounds like you need to rotate to the next -maybe 2 splines. I believe the easiest way is to leave the adjustable side and t-bar together slide t-bar toward rear of vehical, rotate and reinsert into front mount.

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by farinvail

Sounds like you need to rotate to the next -maybe 2 splines. I believe the easiest way is to leave the adjustable side and t-bar together slide t-bar toward rear of vehical, rotate and reinsert into front mount.

That is what seems the logical thing to do to me.

I need to check the OEM bars and see if the flat spots are directly across from each other. I am thinking they must not be.

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by macneill

Where's Bull at when ya need him?...

Hell, he got it right. I am the retard that fawked it up.

[bull]

I had the same issue. You will have to rotate it a spline or two and re-install and check it. I don't think the flat parts are exactly across from eachother. I had to move mine 5 or 6 splines to get it right, which means I had the bars in and out 4 times or so...




Also, I still think my driverside is off a bit and will be taking it out again this weekend. Let me know if you need phone support..or a hug

[bull]

Have you seen this Nolan?

Torsion Bar FSM

[wngrog]

Yeah I saw that.

Sure, it dawned on me that the indexing spots (flat spots) must not be directly across from each other.

Here is the deal.

Take the OEM torsion bar and lay it flat.

Run a line aross from one index mark (flat spot) on the torsion bar to the other end of the bar.

Count how many splines they are off from one another.

Mine are 4 splines off.

Set the front (axle end) in place and index the rear 4 splines off on each side.

They should hang from the adjuster bolt the same distance on both sides.

Don't use an impact on the adjuster bolt.

Don't lay inder the Torsion bar when you are torquing it.....they can explode if the metal is a bad cast.

Now, about those cupholders......................

[bull]

So does this mean you figured it out? Honestly I think it is trial and error, my drivervside seems to be off. When I remove it this weekend I will count splines etc from the flat spots.

Cup holders are overated..

[farinvail]

I tried to count splines and mark them. Totally useless. When putting it together I couldn't see squat. Eventually just tried to hit the same angle on the adjusters and about the same amount of adjuster bolt treaded. Off one spline on drivers side. Figured it out before tightening everyting. Couple times up and down adjusting. Guess I got lucky. No the flats on oem t-bars are not parallel. I think 4 splines off. useless information, just trial and error imo

[Greg B]

Yeah, I just lined them up based on the angle of the torque arm. I let them hang down a bit, so that as I tightened them to the right height, they were level with the frame rail.

EDIT: The first thing I did was look at the angle of the torque arm with stock t-bars. Then, on the new t-bars, I let the torque arm hang down about 30 degrees lower than original. That way, when I cranked them up to gain lift they would end up about the same spot as they were originally.

[moooooooo]

well surely there's someone who works for the various aftermarket manufacturers lurking on here...man this one of the many things (ie suspension mods) still on my list to do and i really hope you find the solution!!
cheers
peter

[sleeoffroad]

Uhm, I have to check the stock bars. I was under the impression the marks are in line.

We always mark the front and rear bracket on the torsion bar and make sure that they do not rotate in relation to each other when we transfer them from the stock bars to the new ones.

[wngrog]

The marks are off.

Before and after. 1.5" higher in the rear with the 863s

[wngrog]

Anyone leave this worthless POS off? I don't think it is going back on mine...

[macneill]

Originally Posted by wngrog

The marks are off.

Before and after. 1.5" higher in the rear with the 863s

What's up with these pix? You have an 01 right?

Looks really elevated...?

[bull]

I did...I found out the hard way that it keeps the water and mud out of the engine bay. That being said I'm leaving it off permanently..

Originally Posted by wngrog

Anyone leave this worthless POS off? I don't think it is going back on mine...

[bull]

Originally Posted by wngrog

The marks are off.

Before and after. 1.5" higher in the rear with the 863s

Looks good, now go get some new rags installed on it..


What kind of tire are you going with? I can't make them out from the picture..

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by macneill

What's up with these pix? You have an 01 right?

Looks really elevated...?

It is lifted.......

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by bull

Looks good, now go get some new rags installed on it..


What kind of tire are you going with? I can't make them out from the picture..

Nitto Terra Grapplers 33 x 13.50 x 18

[macneill]

Originally Posted by wngrog

It is lifted.......

I got that part, it just looks extraordinarily high, almost AHC?

Maybe it's just me

[ats4x4dotcom]

We dont use any of the index marks when changing the torsion bars, but set the thread of the adjusters flush with the top of the round section they screw into, slip the bar in, hold them in position, fit other end cap lining up A arm holes while at full droop, then adjust the adjuster back to standard position it was with old t bars, [we always wire brush the thread before undoing, and anti seize before doing up] then we normally only need a slight tweak once car is measured [5 turns of the adjuster = 3/4" fender to rim measurement] and the left [yr driver side] nomally has slightly different arientation to the rh side] to get the height spot on for each vehicle as listed below.

copyied from bulls build post-

"You should maintain a minimum of 70mm [2.75"] of droop in the 100 IFS front set up, if you have a Slee diff drop fitted, to stop the cv boots wearing out. [boot pleats shouldnt be touching in straight ahead position at ride height]

This is normally 50-60mm higher than standard, depending on accessory levels.

on a 16" rim this makes for 770mm [30.3"] measurenent from bottom of rim bead edge up through centre of wheel to fender edge when set up correctly.

Rear should be aprox 790-800mm [31.5"]"

[wngrog]

How is the best way to measure drop? I would like to go higher in the front if I can get away with it.

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by macneill

I got that part, it just looks extraordinarily high, almost AHC?

Maybe it's just me

The ass is way high. 863s

I don't like the looks, but I need to get my bumper installed and the storage box filled before I worry too much.

[ats4x4dotcom]

Originally Posted by wngrog

How is the best way to measure drop? I would like to go higher in the front if I can get away with it.

Measure the car from bottom rim edge to fender while jacked at up and fully drooped front suspension, [which is where my quoted measurements are from] then measure it at normal ride height, but not straight after letting the vehicle back down, drive it first to ensure the suspension isnt still "tucked up" on the A arm/tyres which will make it sit higher when first on the ground, until you move the car and it "normalises".

There should be a minimum of 70mm [2.75"] difference between the 2 measurements which is the amount of droop the front end has per side.

The rear should also have a 70mm minimum of droop, so it doesnt top the shockers out all the time.

[wngrog]

Originally Posted by ats4x4dotcom

on a 16" rim this makes for 770mm [30.3"] measurenent from bottom of rim bead edge up through centre of wheel to fender edge when set up correctly.

Rear should be aprox 790-800mm [31.5"]"

Mine is 32" in the front with 18" wheels so I am close enough, but as high as I can go.

[ats4x4dotcom]

Originally Posted by wngrog

Mine is 32" in the front with 18" wheels so I am close enough, but as high as I can go.

with 2.75" being the minimum, you will find it may pick up a front wheel when turning, and the 100 is very prone to hammering the shock, and OME tend to tear the bottom eye off, and/or pull the nut through the washer on the top, and when there is no limiter for the front suspension once the shock does as described, it over extends the ball joint and snaps it off, making the front wheel become detatched from the vehicle.

2.75" is the ABSOLUTE MIMIMUM you should run of droop.

Bearing in mind these measurements are with 16" rims, so you will need to add 1/2" for every inch bigger than 16" on rims.

[wngrog]

Also, my tires are rubbing. Anyone know a suppier for wheel spacers for the 100 series? 3/4" with lugs would be great. This is at full turn and it is in the rear of the front wheelwell.

[wngrog]

There is about 1/4" of clearance at the top....